Mr. Foxen

Just for comparison.

I think the Lomezo Hyperdrive should be the go to bass distortion, it is pretty good and cheap.

[quote name='silddx' post='865945' date='Jun 13 2010, 02:05 PM']Does any of this sound "digital"? What is your opinion of the tones? Does it sound pleasing or irritating to the ears?[/quote] Definitely doesn't sound like a valve amp in the room with me. Sounds like an MP3, digitally encoded. I could take a photo of an old masterpiece, and scan it, print it on a decent printer, then post a photo of that in 800x600 and you probably could see the difference between the original photo in 800x600. Doesn't mean that print out is gonna fool anyone into thinking it is a real painting.

[quote name='51m0n' post='864776' date='Jun 11 2010, 10:53 PM']Sorry but the information in the first link is just utter nonsense. No bass cabs 'throw', rather sound gets quieter according to the [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverse-square_law"]Inverse Square Law[/url] in all cases, bass is no different. In other words the volume decreases by half as the distance from the source is doubled. That is an immutable law of acoustics.[/quote] You do have boundary cancellation, which leads to the apparent effect that lows don't become audible until you reach a distance from a cab. The explanation offered there might be wrong. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=38232&view=findpost&p=380903"]Citation.[/url] [quote name='51m0n' post='864776' date='Jun 11 2010, 10:53 PM']The rule of thumb in that link about speaker diameter and distance from a wall is also tosh. There is no such link at all between cone diamter and distance or indeed speaker frequency response.[/quote] Speaker diameter does effect the dispersion pattern or a speaker though, and since that would effect what frequencies are radiating around the driver sides and back, would therefore effect which ones are going to be bouncing off the walls there. There is also a correlation between cone diameter and frequency response off axis, which is where most ears will be, so there is an audible difference. [url="http://lowdownlowdown.com/greenboy/DL/tablesfrequency.htm"]Beaming frequencies[/url]. Bigger speakers also tend toward great volume displacement and sensitivity, because they are bigger, so you can get more lows than from an otherwise equivalent smaller diameter speaker.

[quote name='umph' post='865835' date='Jun 13 2010, 12:01 PM']I'd rather just turn something on and it sound great rather than spend hours reading valve data sheets and soldering.[/quote]

[quote name='bass445' post='865742' date='Jun 13 2010, 10:03 AM']thanks for the info guys, but that isnt what i asked, i asked what wattage of speakers i need for a 450 watt amp head[/quote] Wattage doesn't mean anything, so ignore it. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3730"]See here if you wanna get complicated.[/url]

Stuffing sealed bass cabs is considered a total win for a bass cab's tone. Why not for a guitar cab? I'd figure the 'tone' is in the 'flaws', but I don't see why it should be any more so than for a sealed bass cab.

If I go to a gig and the electrics don't fuse each of the first three strums (forcing him to cut a kilowatt of amps from the backline), I feel cheated.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ibanez-ICB300EX-IceMan-Bass-Red-White-Checkered-/200482615711?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2eadb1f19f"]Iceman[/url]

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='865516' date='Jun 12 2010, 08:50 PM']Valve Biasing?[/quote] Don't need it with preamp valves.

BDI21. Watch local ads and make rubbish offers on any bass cab that comes up.

If you are digging the crude and dirty valve amp sound, why not go for a crude and dirty valve amp? Stop messing with the shiny pretty things. Depending on how loud you want, There are a bunch of valve amps going. There are some Mesa that straddle the border between valves and shiny tech, and probably cheaper than the Aguilar.

Loosen all the screws before taking any one out. Don't put the screws down somewhere and then put the body on top of them leaving a load of marks on it. Make a note of anything you are looking for, cause it totally sucks if you put it back together and realise you've forgotten in the excitement of your first neck removal.

Get a Sansamp BDDI, stick all the knobs at 12, including the blend, and be surprised how 'ommphy' it makes anything.

For a cautious toe into the world of looping, I have a Akai Headrush E2 going apparently, bit of radio silence from the other 'buyer'.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='863065' date='Jun 10 2010, 11:07 AM']Buckminster Fuller I believe![/quote] Pretty sure he is referencing the mainstay of early WW2 bomber command the Wellington: Course, bouncing 2 ton metal explody things on water is cooler.

[quote name='ShergoldSnickers' post='862955' date='Jun 10 2010, 09:30 AM']Got me wondering as well.... Rather than using wooden battens and bracing, would it be possible to use a threaded metal rod to stress opposing panels by pulling them inward toward each other? I guess this rules out lots of designs due to the driver(s) getting in the way of the rod. You'd want the panels joined by the rod at the point where they flex most - slap bang in their centre I would presume. Might mean narrow front, deep cabs! Use an aluminium rod for weight saving and.... well like I said, jus' wondering. Hang on... that's it - geodesic bass cabs as per Barnes Wallis! [/quote] Putting it all under tension should work great. The other way would be to pre-tensioning the whole thing in assembly, then you have all the fun of it exploding when you drop it and a joint gives. Aircraft design is a fairly good place to look, pressurised and light, not a very practical shape though. The airflow stuff for jet intakes probably applies to ports too.

[quote name='bumnote' post='862939' date='Jun 10 2010, 09:19 AM']What are the Health and Safety reasons? is it the material or where you use it[/quote] The dust is pretty bad for you if you breath it in, think it is the resin that bonds it all.

You can use a guitar head into a bass cab, it might be a bit bass shy, and it will sound wrong for guitar playing though.

Can any of the graphicy people make me a Doom stamp of approval?

[quote name='ped' post='862779' date='Jun 9 2010, 11:50 PM']After spending weeks and weeks learning the ins and outs of the thing sounding the same with all of them.[/quote]

[quote name='johnzgerman' post='862782' date='Jun 9 2010, 11:55 PM']surely a cab is going to produce different sounds depending on where you rap upon it, ie. if you hit it where one of the braces is attached to the side of the cab internally then it will be very dead, if however you hit it on a surface that is in between the bracings and a corner of the cab it will be more responsive. i think[/quote] It will make more noise in the more flexible bits. Those bits will flex when the cab is being used, cause pressure inside is in all directions. Any flexible bit is a bit that is losing energy. When I first heard about this I went over my cabs giving them a good tapping, the ABM is so heavy no-where stood out as a loud bit, and the Tech was also dead all over, even though it is light, there is all sorts of funny bracing going on.

2x10 as similar to the one in the combo as you can. Sit it on end. In fact, have a go at sticking the combo on end, on a box, so it is closer to your ears.

MDF isn't used for the higher end stuff cause it isn't very durable when dropped. A sort of check for needing bracing is rap on the panels with your knuckles, if it thuds, producing a low note, that note is being absorbed by the cab flexing and wasting energy in use. Better cabs give a higher and quieter note as they don't flex much producing little sound.