Mr. Foxen

If musicians have a big problem with how the sound engineer works, they are welcome to pay their own one to come to the gig with them. If your band doesn't suck, and you're not a dick, then they might even do it quite cheap.

Sounds doable. I've used a peavey power amp to run my bass rig with guitar rig from the other side before. Sansamp VT makes a good pre.

Kind of like diamonds, vintage instruments are not rare, but are stockpiled in warehouses by large investors to maintain value. There are plenty of ways to put your money in things totally subject to the whim of large investors.

[quote name='cheezus' timestamp='1370980728' post='2108322'] I managed to break my Matamp 4x10" - bass cab [b]and[/b] my 300W tube amp a week ago at gig. I opened the cab today and checked up the elements - one of them was completely dead and did not show any reading when I tested the impedance with a meter. I also noticed that one of the electric wires was also detached from another element (not from the one that I think is broken). I have the Eminence Ferrite Delta 10A (8ohm) elements and there is a marking "Custom manufactured for Matamp audio techology". Any idea that what's the difference between the standard and the custom version of the element - or is there? I cannot even describe the feeling on the stage when I realized that the cab went suddenly completely mute and the tube amp blew all the tubes few seconds later. [/quote] Unlikely to be massive difference in the OEM vs retail drivers, might be something though. Sounds like a speaker went because disconnected and the others were pushed hard and tuned wrong because of the new passive radiator they had to deal with, what head was it?

The original ones were developed pretty much in parallel, which is why the big one and the 15/6 are very similar. But Barefaced ran with the lightweight construction, whereas Fearful are designed well for DIY, so Barefaced will come out lighter unless you fiddle a bit with the design; thinner wood, prestressing and such.

Stuffing the port in a reflex cab messes with the airflow, which you want as smooth as possible really. I'd guess it drops some midrange reflecting out the port, but really that should be dealt with elsewhere. Stuffing will mess with the port tuning, I'd think that is too inconsistent to be beneficial, its all about mass and airflow.

Even if you can't, don't bin it, a neck that is already a gonner is useful for experimenting.

[quote name='Jellyfish' timestamp='1370896613' post='2107205'] Here's a reason not to use them too, at least. [url="http://btpub.boyd-printing.com/display_article.php?id=1115676"]http://btpub.boyd-pr....php?id=1115676[/url] [/quote] Only applies up until you use them. Chances of the coating surviving a trip through the bridge and going over the saddles is slim. They work fine, I use Elixirs with my stupid amounts of gain, and loads of top (bunch of the reason I use elixirs is they reduce string squeak as your fingertips rub them) with no hum issues. Have tried the other coated strings but they didn't do the lasting.

If someone really wants that, can persuade the guy to bristol, I can ship it easy enough from here.

Is it something you can shape, or is it made to a form then you are stuck with that?

Ah balls, just put the last of my sets on a bass that I decided I didn't like that much.

Those are great.

No good for moving around, the length of the line means lots of wood, and lots of wood means heavy. Sound is down to the physics of the specific cab and speaker, rather than a product of being transmission line. Bear in mind many bass cabs labelled as such aren't actually transmission line but just standard tuned ported cabs, with long ports.

What amp are you using?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGRIamCE5JU

Bose is one of those marketing over design deals. Go elsewhere.

[quote name='Valhalalf' timestamp='1370804321' post='2105818'] hmmmm might bypass the Hondo then, can't see the pink P Bass in the threads? I'm loving this right now [url="http://www.notreble.com/buzz/2013/02/15/jackson-introduces-dave-ellefson-signature-kelly-bird-bass/"]http://www.notreble....elly-bird-bass/[/url] [/quote] http://basschat.co.uk/topic/208797-new-pink-westfield-b1000-on-ebay-for-l49/ Or you oculd buy my NJ BC Rich Bich for £250. Its a YOB bass for me, but I don't massively dig the balance compared to my eagle, so I'd like £250 more.

Doesn't change the association.

Shape is pretty heavily associated with Dimebag, wrong decade/style.

Unfashionable stuff is the best investment. Niche stuff too, ideally both, if there isn't much competition on the market when you sell, you dictate price.

Yeah, I just pciked up a nice NJ series Japanese made BC Rich for that money. Get the £50 pink precision from the other thread and hotrod it.

[url="http://ecal.altervista.org/en/home.php"]http://ecal.altervista.org/en/home.php[/url] I tend to list items in plenty of places for cheaper than ebay, and hint to look there on ebay. People still pay the premium to buy via ebay often though. I generally offer to co-operate with cancelling when I buy large items too, so seller gets their fees back.

Lemmy played plenty of copies, one was up for sale recently.

[quote name='burno70' timestamp='1370732274' post='2105052'] Got the Little Bastard today - brilliant, brilliant amp, genuinely blown away by it. Got band praccy tomorrow and dying to try it with the super 12T but I remember speaking with Alex about amp recommendations and I thought he said a full valve amp wouldn't work well with the cab - unless I'm completely mistaken as this was over a year ago. Any thoughts as to why this might be? Would there be any danger of harming either amp or cab? (Sorry to the OP for the derail) [/quote] It was the plan from the start when I ordered my S15, maybe its a sensitivity thing, with the low power. could well be fine anyway, stuff breaking tends to sound like breaking.

Are the valves blown? Was the amp serviced, the sockets cleaned, soldering checked etc? A drifted resistor can be hard on a valve.