Mr. Foxen

Boss pedal buffered bypass is fine, some aren't bypassed though, ones that parallel process, digital ones and pitch shift ones can potentially not be buffered. It was the old wahs that really tone sucked due to having no bypass, meaning the signal always passed through the input circuitry even when the effect was off, those really improved with a true bypass switch, but a buffered one would have been even better.

Buffer will alter the tone from running unbuffered, suddenly you don't have chunks of it scooped out. Running into a high impedance can make quite a lot of difference.

Could totally bend you a bit of tin to order.

Short version is 'True bypass' is much cheaper to implement than a buffer. Then you call it a 'feature' and people don't twig they are getting stiffed. For consistent tone, you want a stable impedance on you pickups, as they are an inductor in a circuit with a resistor (the impedance) they act as a bandpass filter, if you constantly change the value of the resistor the tone changes with it (like turning a tone control), if you have a buffer, the impedance (the hypothetical resistor) stays the same, and the changes happen isolated from the circuit with the pickup in it. Edit: another write up for reference: http://www.tech21nyc.com/technotes/

I'm gonna make some bridges eventually. Kind of low priority, since plenty of choices about. Making metal necks is where the hotness is.

[quote name='Clarky' timestamp='1377458129' post='2187819'] I sincerely hope none of us on BassChat actually have to rely on dealing in bass gear to support our families (excepting those who work in music retail of course) [/quote] Aside from not really having a family to support, dealing bass gear is my main income. Well, guitar gear too, but I play bass through it all.

I can't find enough Laney AOR series to satisfy demand. I just don't see enough Matamps that I ever have a chance to pick one up cheap.

My own auction, so didn't post until it was done, because not advertising my stuff, but what have I missed here, I had this down as a cheap nasty before I robbed all the bits off it. Loads of people fighting over it, I figured I'd be lucky to get the £25 start and it out the way: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300949307514?ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1561.l2649

Also, a good modern conventional cab will be lightweight. Being heavy is something tech has moved on from.

I stuck a 3015 in an Ashdown MAG15 and lined it with knobbly foam, sounded good, but the ports are too small and it compresses before the driver is getting to its limit. So if you spend about £250 on top of the cost of the Ashdown cab, you get a sort of heavier, less loud Compact. Edit: typo

Or best offer. Edit: wait, handle is damaged, better dismiss their entire product line.

I've actually forgotten what the upper pic is, think it is the Viking PA, sort of like a selmer, needed loads of work that wasn't economic so on the duffer pile until it is worth it. Lower one is a burman preamp.

Get it without paying extra for an Orange badge: http://www.tubesync.co.uk/ Know a guy who is set up to fit these in Brighton sort of way.

You can achieve the distortion of old cabs via other means than underpowered drivers though. You need to work with the cab you have to get best tone, not set the tone for one cab, then swap in another and declare it not as good.

Sansamp variants sort of do it. The speaker breakup is considered, flavours though.

[URL=http://s17.photobucket.com/user/Incarante/media/DSCF1652_zps65eee073.jpg.html][IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1652_zps65eee073.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Isn't the LB the linebacker and solid state? If it is valve and 100w (from the name) it is pretty unlikely to be cathode bias, 4 EL34 give something fair bit less than that in cathode bias. Might just not have a bias pot, older laneys tended not to. Also, obligatory valve amp pic: [URL=http://s17.photobucket.com/user/Incarante/media/DSCF1652_zps6259961c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1652_zps6259961c.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Looks like a Hiwatt and a Vampower had offspring.

Do you have both pickups all the way up on the jazz? Try rolling one off a bit, might be the mids you are missing compared to the precision.

Left it laying about for the oil to cure, and considered what pickups to go in. Realised the originals are probably fine, but gonna lose the active bits. Stuck them in, and decide how to wire it: [URL=http://s17.photobucket.com/user/Incarante/media/DSCF1650_zpsc6c54ec8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1650_zpsc6c54ec8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

A wood block, some clamps and a table will provide an improvised jig, you don't have to push it hard. Also, heavier strings, always heavier, cures everything except bad setup.

String through body is the old fashioned way. Top loading was cheaper, so it got changes, less holes to drill, no turning the bass over in production. It gives better mechanical coupling to the body, which will show up tonal flaws from the body more, it also shows up poor quality strings, and bad stringing practice.

If it is your photo, you can report it as copyright infringement. I've done that and had a listing pulled, it showed photos of my living room. Also bought an amp that was in my living room, then got £50 back for not as described, he'd pulled one of my pics of an amp off the net, and it was slightly different.

I have one and its nice, but not getting much use out of it. Works pretty good for guitar too.

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1376732104' post='2178448'] This one looks to be better finished. Except, is that a coffee stain on the back of the neck? Is this made from a single piece of wood, apart from the headstock? [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bass-Fretless-4-String-Chinaberry-Wood-Wishbass-KA-MM-Pickup-Free-Ship-in-48-/130969327236?pt=Guitar&hash=item1e7e615684"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e7e615684[/url] [/quote] Standard construction, laminated through neck, body wings attached, just similar coloured woods.