mcnach

I think that E string is too useful to lose it

As others have said, the LM3 is design to run at a minimum of 4ohm, which is where you are already with your existing cab. If you add another 4ohm cab, they'll be wired in parallel (99.9% of the cab connectors are wired in parallel, the MarkBass is no exception), which results in an impedance of 2ohm. Not good. I have run my LM3 with two 4ohm cabs BY MISTAKE, and it survived... but it was only for 10-15 minutes and at home, not very loud. Not something you want to try at a gig, although the amplifier has a protection mode and it will just switch itself off... but best not test it. What you can do is wire two 4ohm cabs in series, which will give you 8ohm. At 8ohm the LM3 will not give you 500W but around 300W max. This means that depending on the sensitivity of the speakers, the result may work for you, or may be only marginally louder and disappoint you. To wire them in series, you can contact @obbm here and he can make you a little connector box (he did one for me). The best solution would be to have two 8ohm cabs (ideally identical), or a single larger 4ohm one while keeping your existing one so you can have both a compact and a louder rig. But both situations will cost you more money than buying a single cab.

Ha! That makes a lot of sense and fits my experience: I turn down bass a lot and turn up mids... so I'm probably going for a relatively 'flat' setting. When I use my MarkBass LM3 I pretty much leave the controls flat, with minimal adjustments.

I'm not familiar with those cabs, but I often use an Orange Terror Bass 500 at a local music venue, through either their Orange 410 (forget which model) or my own cabs at times. I always end up turning the bass EQ down quite a bit and turning up the mids. With the knobs at 12 o'clock it's too bassy for my liking for sure. Don't be afraid of turning down the bass knob on that amp.

This man speaks the truth. The Classic 50s nitro version is an addition to the range, and only came in black (and maybe sunburst too? can't recall) while the poly finish Classic 50s came in fiesta red (sort of faded), black, sunburst and a creamy sort of vintage white. Both RW and Classic 50s have a wide neck, but the RW is chunkier. The feel is very different too, as the RW's neck has the lacquer worn out and the Classic 50s has the glossy poly lacquer (that I love). Sound-wise, I prefer the Classic 50 as well but I have only tried one example of each. My Classic 50 is a lovely bass. The nut width is noticeable larger than in just about any other 4-string bass I've played, but it's a very comfortable neck and has a lovely sound. I had read reviews over on TB about replacing the pickup, but I love mine, so it stayed. The RW was very light, and most RW basses I've tried were light too... not that the Classic 50s I have is particularly heavy, but another thing to think about maybe. I'd go for the Classic 50s Precision. The RW has a lovely worn-in neck but I find the 50s more comfortable and I'm not a big fan of relic jobs, no matter how good they are...

How's the colour-fastness on it? I've got a couple hat came with the basses I own and I have not used them at all... I forgot entirely about them and came across them the other day and I'm considering using them. They are wide and padded, comfy. I am used to standard width hemp ones and I'm ok with them but after trying the Maruszczyk I'm thinking they deserve being used

aaaah!

Ah, that's possible. I would have certainly been playing the higher B during the middle bit... It sounded good 'though.

Do you play it as in the original version (Audioslave)? I used to play it with a 4-string and standard tuning... Guitarists say a lot of things, always worth listening, not always worth acting on.

My objection is to actively forcing people to do something they don't need to do. I'm not a fan of making superfluous rules.

Oh yes, I get that. But if the seller is not bothered by that, why force them? I think having the location displayed is useful and I have no problem displaying mine. I'm just against making it compulsory when there's no better reason than "but I often search the marketplace and sometimes I don't know if an item I might like is local to me or not". edit: I said 'displaying mice' when I meant 'displaying mine'... but if I had pet mice I'd happily display them too. I used to have rats and they were a lot of fun.

you can probably remove the logo and reattach in your favourite orientation?

why do you think you need to have it on the FS section? By the time money changes hands I'd expect you know a great deal more about each other than what a little "location" tag under their avatar says, no?

In Glasgow, Jimmy Egypt is the guy I'd think of first. In Edinburgh you have the superb Chris McIntyre.

another vote for the J-Retro01 I've tried other preamps, Audere and the like... nothing came close to the J-Retro for my taste.

why would anyone take offence? We're just chatting

I think it only seems interesting to you because it's contrary to what you'd like. It seems pretty logical (to me, but of course I'd say that ;)) I still haven't heard a good reason to make disclosing location compulsory.

In my opinion, it is such a small issue that any 'solution' seems overkill to me. I just can't see what the problem is with sending a message to a seller if they failed to mention their location. If someone cannot do that, then I don't think they're that interested in buying in the first place.

I think you're overthinking it.

I'm a fan of the CV series too... but I'm not sure that judging instruments based on their individual setup is a useful thing to do. That Matt Freeman (got one too :)) clearly has great frets, all levelled nice. A Fender MIM or USA can be made to have the same levelled smooth frets with relatively little effort. It's part of the set up, and to me that's not what makes an instrument inherently better or worse (although some think so, and that has allowed me to buy some great basses at great prices in the past ;))

These days I often go to the company directly (depending on who it is), and they often deal with you pretty efficiently... and if not, well, nothing lost, go to the established channels When my 2 month old TC RH450 head went up in smoke at a gig, a few polite questions on Talkbass let to TC contacting me directly and arranging a replacement: THEY contacted my local store, who had none in stock, and TC sent them one for me. My amp died on a Saturday night, on Sunday TC contacted me and on Monday afternoon they called me to say "pick up your new amp on Wednesday". When I had issued with a *second hand* Source Audio pedal, I contacted them for ideas... they had me sent the pedal and came back a week later with a fresh power supply, all free of charge. Nordstrand rewound a Jazz pickup for me. DiMarzio sent me a bunch of polepieces. Etc etc...

did someone call? Indeed... I love the Jazz sound but I much prefer a Precision: the size/weight, the way it balances, the wider neck... so your idea sounds perfectly reasonable to me. Not surprising that I say that, as I tried it myself So I've had two attempts at this. The first one was my Matt Freeman Squier Precision. I already had enough Precisions so this was a bit redundant but felt great, so it seemed like the perfect bass to modify. I added a J at the bridge and replaced the P for another J (I had to get a new pickguard). The wiring is Volume/Blend/Tone and it was certainly Jazzy. I was using a pair of Nordstrand NJ4SE pickups I already had, and later a pair of DiMarzio Area J. With the Area J it was a more "Jazz"... but these pickups are humbuckers and they never sound like a traditional Jazz. Then, I got a Maruszczyk Jake (their Precision model) made for me with a pair of Heussel Jazz 60 pickups. That sounded just like a Jazz should. I actually further modified the Matt Freeman: I got another pickguard made with a routing for a J pickup much closer to the bridge: it gives me a very different sound and it's pretty interesting how it blends with the bridge pickup. That bass can now be transformed into a PJ or a Jazz in 10 minutes by using one of the other pickguards. Unnecessary, but there you go. Here's what the Maruszczyk looked like:

... until the next issue?

I had to get a new handle for my CMD121P combo: the metal blade inside the rubber bit had cut through the rubber (easily) and was slowly but surely sawing away at the PLASTIC bit that screws into the cabinet and holds the handle together. I only noticed because I was looking into getting a replacement for the fraying handle. Nearly half of the post had already been sawn into. Not good!!! I contacted MarkBass about that and they sent me a new handle, free of charge. They were very fast too. Of course, it was the same plastic one... so I sourced a better one with metal parts on eBay. Silly place to cut costs.

+1 I also object to making it a *requirement*. From the 'pro' comments here it seems that indicating the location is something that might help the person who places the ad... so let them choose how they want to do it.