deepbass5

This is my ear worm at the moment, i seem to be singing it all day. So this is what i'm listening to, there is a why, and that is I am playing this arrangement at the moment. One rehearsal and can't get it out of my head. Barry Manilow back Piano duties with Bette on this one.

I have re read your post so my original comments now removed are not valid, thought you were referring to the nylon guide on a zero fretted bass. what a difference that full stop makes 🤫

I'm just wondering why you would alter a zero fret design, as it is the zero fret that is setting the string height and is same material as all other frets, The nylon string guide is just that, any plastic material will do just to keep the strings in line over the zero fret. The only reason I changed one on my Status Electro was allowing for different coated strings of larger diameter than the current slots. So made a new guide out of i nice piece of Yew i had, which complemented the body and fret-board. but the zero fret stayed.

I am now researching and answering my own post 😄 Warwick Just A Nut III for 4-string Basses, Plastic The current Just-A-Nut III is the most progressive design yet for a part that is so essential to the playability and sound transmission of the instrument. We have discovered Tedur, a polymer strengthened with fiberglass, whose outstanding abilities to transmit vibration was proven in laboratory tests, which then became the basis for further tests revealing that Tedur is extraordinarily resistant against breakage and wear. With that, Tedur has fulfilled all the expectations we’ve placed on a modern nut.

I did have a Streamer broad neck many years back, with a Just -A-Nut III that i upgraded it to, I am just wondering now If Warwick have always used TEDUR to make their nuts, and Sadowsky have adopted this on their basses but in white to simulate Bone. Does anybody know if Warwick nuts have always been TEDUR or is this new to Sadowsky Metro's.

High Guys n Gals Just thought it worth asking what material you are Nuts about at the thin end of your finger board. I, like most of you have experienced most types of bass nut materials on many different basses over time. Bone was favoured by luthiers and still is by many. Mass production saw us given a hard Nylon material by the likes of Fender, some of these were changed after market with Brass nuts. Some manufacturers started out with brass nuts. Warwick introduced us to Bell Brass frets, and adjust a nut. I, II, III Are you happy with your strings and ultimately your tone balancing on two little screws? I have liked all the basses i have had with a Zero fret, and a string guide only nut. It seems a logical long term solution. The open string will sound the same as all other frets, a subject always for debate when other materials are used. We have also seen Graphite nuts and Mamouth TUSK the list goes on, and Now :- Having just purchased a Sadowsky bass with Tedur nut, I am thinking , what the hell is TEDUR, interesting that that German Sadowsky's by Warwick use this too but in the Just-A-nut III format, where Roger in NYC is keeping his TEDUR firmly routed to the wood ? Any thoughts on your NUTS ? Below is what i found out about TEDUR. A low thermal expansion coefficient that is comparable to aluminum as well as high rigidity mean that TEDUR® is highly suitable as a replacement for metal. Aluminum has already been replaced by TEDUR® in many applications, such as a mounting frame for driver assistance cameras. The camera lens bracket must have a high level of dimensional stability and rigidity, so that the lens is not affected by driving or due to warping. However, TEDUR® is useful as more than just a replacement for metal. Its excellent hydrolysis and chemical resistance, even at high temperatures, are the basis for using TEDUR® in cooling systems, for example in pump components, pump valves or extruded pipes. Cooling circuits, in particular, are becoming ever more important due to e-mobility and the increasing demands placed on materials. Especially with regard to battery cooling, there are much higher requirements compared to a standard combustion engine. While the relatively robust power units previously needed to be cooled mainly when in driving mode, power storage units are more sensitive to increased temperatures and must be cooled both when in driving mode (unloading) and also during charging. Materials used in the cooling circuit are therefore exposed to loads for significantly longer periods, and must be replaced by more resistant materials. The long-lasting resistance of TEDUR® is therefore important so that extruded pipes, pumps and valves continue to function reliably even after many years of use. Over to you for comment.

changing the singer or guitarist can have the same affect without medication 😆

Interesting topic at everyone's heart - thanks for posting. Like many I'm a creature of habit, and usually start a gig with some mid scoop on my amp ?? without trying to find out what the room needs. Then spend the first set tweaking. That said even when I have had nice basses with the great flexible pre- Amps. I find myself never altering the Pan from center, I rarely boost bass or treble, but find the bass's Para-mid my go to adjustment, song to song. My main working bass for about 12 years was a Shuker with soap bars and a 5 knob East pre, with a passive tone knob. just used that and the Para-mid. I Just got a Sadowsky NYC with soap bars, the organic tone of the bass is amazing in the Low, low- Mids. Again Pan stays center, It doesn't need any active boost Low or High with Amp set flat. Love it in Passive mode. Just getting used to having no Para - mid. I did get into a conversation with John E. about having a pre -amp with just a Vol, pan, + 2 Para mids. I think it would be really useful tool on any bass.

😄 Yes - can bust a few Kidneys with that, doesn't get out much these days. Back to 1 x 12 next week.

Went well , the bass player was awesome 😁

We all dread the day don't we, Me and the Mrs packed in our wedding functions band after 30 years, just before Covid hit. Thought we would miss it. But haven't as we had all the hassle of running it and lugging the gear, so now just have great memories and have found other interesting projects to fulfill the need. In a couple of Big bands where i can sit down and read the charts, but have been coerced into joining a pop/rock pub band, but luckily not involved in serious gigging. As I realise now, i can't stand and play for hours as i used to, the legs ache and angles swell, ah! the ole blood pressure tablets are great aren't they onward and upwards, never give up never surrender

We haven't got used to being a third world country yet, depending how far we sink, we will all have to get used to not buying foreign goods. (Lovely Basses). Still mustn't grumble, Nail Bars and coffee shops are still full. Do you think these basses have Pino flat wound strings on them, could save a few bob there.

An update as I started this . After about two months I put my La bella deep talking flats back on my P bass, and then even started to think about selling it. But having trawled through various comparison videos on the Tube, I thought i would try a set of La bella low tension flats. Have to say guys wow wow wow, love these, amazing tone really unbelievable tone, I had not expected such a variation in tone across the sets. totally sold on these now. It is always bit of an expensive decision to go and spend money on trying various Flats. These were not too bad at £42 but some are silly money. Anyway just in case any of you were wondering about these. well worth it. Back in love with the ole CS now.

Why not just run the top channel of the TT. I used an 800+ for a year or more loved the high pass filter and para mids but was surprised on A/B ing it against my Mark bass, that it didn't go deeper even with the bass boost on and was no more loud even with stated 800 watts.

The volume knob

Really ?!!! I know we can get very anal about our gear on here, but If a band mate one meter away can't tell which bass you are playing, or if using different strings or you have a new amp, how the hell is a few microns of wax going to impair the sound of an electro acoustic guitar.

Someone on here put me on to this. Used by National Trust and the Royal household apparently. it puts a hard coat on things antiques etc. Rub in and polish off. seems to work well. Better than the Warwick wax for a hard ware coat with out the finger prints.

It could be your central heating pump coming in or tumble dryer etc. Just a thought before you start taking your gear apart. Any inductive load switching on and off on the same ring circuit could do it.

I Thought i would post my today's indoor project. I have two beloved Acme Low B cabs both 4 ohm. One gets all the use nowadays whilst the other sits indoors for home practice. I used to gig both in a functions band using a little GK fusion head DI'ed to a Mark bass amp for the second cab. But now for louder rock gigs I go through a TecAmp 4x10. But have still fancied my 2x12 occasionally, so this is where I am, and not wanting to run two amps. Pictured my previous old jack lead, but i have just purchased a set of Speakon's red and blue so I can colour code the right one for the amp, I keep forgetting which jack is what and have to keep testing them which is why i don't use them. Pictured below is my new lead with Speakons Red for the amp blue for cabs. So Positive from amp speakon heads out and to +1 of first cab speakon the negative is not cut but looped inside. It is the other end of my newly cut positive wire that goes to the -1 and will go on to the +1 of the next cab. 2nd cab -1 will then find its way back to the amp via the uncut neutral in the top speakon and be terminated in the -1 of the Red amp speakon. Putting my two 4 ohm cabs into series giving me 8 ohms. The LAST PICTURE IS ME TESTING TO PROVE I GOT THINGS RIGHT. I am using a speakon though connector and a speakon to jack adaptor so i can use my bass lead to do a battery test. Using an old PP9 as it is down on volts, by touching positive to tip and negative to ring of the jack the speaker cones should jump forward, if connected correctly. always handy to take an old battery with you when buying second hand cabs to prove they are OK and all drivers are wired correctly. This will of course reduce the available output power from my amplifier but doubling my cone surface area will compensate THANKS FOR LOOKING HAPPY GIGGING FOR 2025

I feel very inadequate Fender Precision 77 Oly white maple board - gone Lag Force 4 headless - gone Yamaha BB1100s - gone Schack unique Ash 5 passive - gone ESP P bass S/B - R/W - gone Shuker series II 5 active - gone Marleaux Mbass 5 custom - 🥰 Here Schack active 5 bubinga - gone Rob Allen fretless 4 -gone Status electro 5 - gone Shuker build course bass 5 reverse P 🥰 Here Fender custom shop 62 relic 🥰 Here Bravewood 63 Jazz fret-less copy Blue - gone Ale Antia 5 chambered 5 string - gone Schack unique Ash 4 passive 🥰 Here

Having run the PA in our band for 30 years as well as the bass gear, the number of jack leads I had noticed in the wire bag that had dinks and scratched up barrels it made me wonder how you ever get a decent connection, along side dirt and grease from handling, not to mention the dust sucked into amps by the fan that collects in the female jack sockets. This alone convinced me early on to go to Speakon's as soon as I could. The design based on current ratings and safety aspect were a given, but we gained far more.