Clarky Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Many moons ago I had DB lessons and bought a Czech-made Zeller 3/4 bass - it has sat for years as a dusty, beautiful objet in my sitting room with me very occasionally wandering up, trying to play So What and then wandering off again! The basic problem with it is that it has utterly terrible action and the strings are taut as cables, which makes it not all enjoyable to play for more than 30 seconds. Inspired by the Bass Bash I may have a go at playing it again. Can I ask the experienced DBers what is a reasonable action - at the moment it measures about 1.5cm on the G (if not more) at the end of the board, which is really hard for me to hold down Also can I simply shave down the bridge or would it need a new one etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beedster Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 This from a guy who found fretless bass too much Seriously mate, keep with it Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beedster Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 PS I dare you to walk on stage with it 7th November Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endorka Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 [quote name='Clarky' post='629582' date='Oct 18 2009, 04:35 PM']Can I ask the experienced DBers what is a reasonable action - at the moment it measures about 1.5cm on the G (if not more) at the end of the board, which is really hard for me to hold down[/quote] My double bass is about 1cm at that position, and I'd say it has quite a high action, suitable for orchestral playing - most jazz oriented double basses would have an action lower than this. So I'd say 1.5cm is pretty extreme. [quote]Also can I simply shave down the bridge or would it need a new one etc?[/quote] You should be able to shave it down - not a tricky job but it has to be done correctly. There are instructions on the internet about how to do this; [url="http://dennishavlena.com/bassetup.htm"]http://dennishavlena.com/bassetup.htm[/url] Although I am sure you could do it more simply than that if necessary - assuming the relative string heights are already ok, just trace an arc of the same curvature a bit lower onto your existing brige, sand down to this curve, then re-cut the string grooves. Jennifer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Thank you Jennifer, really helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beedster Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 [quote name='Clarky' post='629618' date='Oct 18 2009, 05:22 PM']Thank you Jennifer, really helpful![/quote] Does that suggest that my comments weren't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssentialTension Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 [quote name='Beedster' post='629597' date='Oct 18 2009, 04:58 PM']This from a guy who found fretless bass too much Seriously mate, keep with it Chris[/quote] Steady on, Clarky was wailing very nicely on my fretless at the BB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 [quote name='Beedster' post='629619' date='Oct 18 2009, 05:24 PM']Does that suggest that my comments weren't [/quote] If the boot fits, Chris ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassace Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 (edited) I'd go for max 8mm on the G and the other strings corresponding to the curvature of the fingerboard. Trouble is, in lowering the strings you may get a buzz/rattle of some of them on the fingerboard. So best to take the bass to a luthier and get him to re-shoot the fingerboard and lower the bridge at the same time. However, first make sure that the 'north and south' position of the bridge is centered with the notches in the f-hole. Then, in spite of what others may suggest, go for a nice new set of Spiro Mittels. Edited October 18, 2009 by bassace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 [quote name='bassace' post='629775' date='Oct 18 2009, 08:14 PM']I'd go for max 8mm on the G and the other strings corresponding to the curvature of the fingerboard. Trouble is, in lowering the strings you may get a buzz/rattle of some of them on the fingerboard. So best to take the bass to a luthier and get him to re-shoot the fingerboard and lower the bridge at the same time. However, first make sure that the 'north and south' position of the bridge is centered with the notches in the f-hole. Then, in spite of what others may suggest, go for a nice new set of Spiro Mittels.[/quote] Thanks Bassace! I had actually started on Jennifer's plan of action, involving sanding down the bridge and re-cutting the notches. This seems to have worked pretty well - its a lot more playable now. Next stop is replacing the strings - I have some old Thomastik Superflexibles that were on the bass when I bought it but still seem serviceable and I will put these back on (at the moment its wearing rockabilly-type ballistic plastic-y strings, which I put on when thinking I could learn to slap). Changing strings on a DB is not a pleasnat job IIRC and so I will leave this until later in the week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doghouse Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) Hi clarky, just a little bit of information if you are slackening the strings right off to take your bridge down make sure you lay your base on it's back so that the sound post doesn't drop. It's on the g-string side of the bridge look inside the fhole and you will see it. the sound post stops the top of your base from splitting when you put tention on the bridge, e.g tightening the strings. I have put a link below which may help you. as for string tention i've used steal and rockabilly nylon but for the last twelve years i've used rotasound nylon e.g e&a string nylon steal flat wound. d&g nylon core nylon round wound. P.S these strings have a good tention for slapping aswel as plucking. Hope this helps. Mick. [url="http://www.gollihurmusic.com/faq/22-LEFT_HANDED_UPRIGHT_BASSES_CAN_I_JUST_RESTRING_A_RIGHTY.html"]http://www.gollihurmusic.com/faq/22-LEFT_H...G_A_RIGHTY.html[/url] Edited October 24, 2009 by doghouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) Many thanks for the advice - I have sanded down the bridge and cut deeper holes. It looks a little agricultural as I didn't have the right woodworking gear but it has worked pretty well. I have got the end-of-fingerboard 'action' down to a bit under 1cm and it is massively more playable now. The volume unsurprisingly has fallen off a lot, even with the original Thomastik Superflexible strings back on, but I don't care about that as it was all but unplayable before (hence it was virtually unused and a pretty ornament). Now I have no excuse not to have another crack at it .... Edited October 24, 2009 by Clarky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassace Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Clarky, If you are going to amp the bass the drop in volume may not be an issue. Sometimes a bass with a strong acoustic sound can overwhelm a pickup and you get a lot of boominess. Are your strings comfortable with the fingerboard in their new position? If so, great, and you won't need a luthier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 [quote name='bassace' post='635566' date='Oct 24 2009, 08:13 PM']Clarky, If you are going to amp the bass the drop in volume may not be an issue. Sometimes a bass with a strong acoustic sound can overwhelm a pickup and you get a lot of boominess. Are your strings comfortable with the fingerboard in their new position? If so, great, and you won't need a luthier.[/quote] Hi bassace! The strings feel good although they verge on buzzing in a couple of places on the board on the A string - not enough to really grate though so I will happily plough on as it is. Thanks again for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatgoogle Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 A buzzing, i took my bass for a setup, it will cost me 200 as i have to have the neck recarved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 [quote name='fatgoogle' post='641250' date='Oct 30 2009, 04:08 PM']A buzzing, i took my bass for a setup, it will cost me 200 as i have to have the neck recarved.[/quote] Ouch! I reckon I could cure the buzzing on the A string (if it really starts to annoy me) by just gluing a sliver of wood into the bridge groove, so raising the action by 1-2mm (which should be enough I think) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairobill Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 (edited) Hey Clarky My advice is to buy yourself a copy of Rufus Reid's 'Evolving Bassist' DVD and get your Zeller set up properly by a good luthier. I know a fantastic guy in Clapham who would do you a great job for relatively little outlay. Just as an aside, Zellers get pretty bad press for being cheap production line basses but Lawrence (the luthier I know) had a Zeller in that he had set up and it really sounded big and punchy. It's all in the setup! Drop me a line if you want me to hook you up - I can;t remember the exact cost of a thorough set up (setting the string height, soundpost adjustment, fingerboard/nut dressing etc) but it probably wasn't too far off £100... I found that after taking up upright that my electric playing improved considerably, so there are other side-benefits as well. Cheers Nick Edited October 30, 2009 by Cairobill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.