BC 8" cab

[rwillett]

23 minutes ago, stevie said:

If you buy white, you should be able to make whatever colour you want with some acrylic colourant. I've done this myself with colourant from Polyvine. I've never tried tinting white - so I've no idea how much you'd need. To get a good textured finish, you'll need the special foam rollers from Blue Aran. They're not the same as the ones you can buy in DIY stores - the foam is much coarser. You can buy them from Ali Express but I haven't seen them anywhere else. If anyone knows another source, that would be useful.

Blue Arran has no foam rollers in, I think their statement of "Huge Stocks" on their front page is not quite accurate TBH. I'll pass on the tinting at the moment. I'll never get it right. These rollers are exceptional value on eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325770386035.

 

31 minutes ago, stevie said:

If you can recess the input panel, you'll achieve a better seal - and it will also look better - but surface mounting works also. Don't for goodness sakes mess about with sealant. Use adhesive foam strip. 2mm thickness is about right.

Message understood on sealant  If the rain would stop,. I can test making a recess in some scrap wood. Already got the foam.

 

32 minutes ago, stevie said:

I'd use screws on the rear panel. Plenty of them. I'm assuming you're gluing the panel in, but do use foam gasket otherwise.

 

Not sure what you mean here, I'm expecting to glue the front panel in. I was also going to glue the rear panel in, but could use foam gasket as you suggest and screw that in. Is that what you meant? Glue the front panel, but screw the rear panel and use foam gasket. If I do that, I might have to recess a 20mm section on the rear panel as it'll stick out. Its flush fitting and anything would make it stick out. 

 

42 minutes ago, stevie said:

If the Fane is already gasketed (which is unusual), you won't need to add any more.

 

The Fane has two rounds of dense foam on top of the metal ring and underneath the metal ring. You can see the bits missing to allow screw access. Is this the gasket? or should I put adhesive foam between this and the wood baffle?

 

 

 

36 minutes ago, stevie said:

Fixing the speaker with T-nuts and bolts (likely M4 or 5) is the preferred method, but woodscrews should work on this size of speaker. If the Fane is already gasketed (which is unusual), you won't need to add any more.

 

I was going to say I have loads of t-nuts as I use them for aluminium extrusion, but I suspect you mean these

 

 rather than these  which are also called T-Nuts  Same name and different nuts, I'll check in the garage, but easy to get.

 

40 minutes ago, stevie said:

If you really need silicone sealant, you haven't built the cab properly. 

Well......

 

40 minutes ago, stevie said:

Unless you have a good (i.e. expensive) crimp tool and the correct crimps (there are different specifications), solder the terminals. It's fine.

 

I do have a decent crimp tool but I much prefer solder. 

 

41 minutes ago, stevie said:

Sealant has no place in a speaker cabinet!

 

Back to the bathroom it goes. 

 

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. Really helpful

 

Rob

 

[rwillett]

Apologies, just realised I've hi-jacked this thread. Sorry, I thought I was in the other thread. I'd repost but @stevie's response is very good. Let me see if I can move things around.

 

Rob