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Digital PA speaker repair


Angelus
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Done a PA hire and sound for a friends band and one of the tops wouldn’t power up ( Behringer DR112DSP ). It’s out of warranty and looking for somewhere in central Scotland that repairs digital amps. I realise not everyone here is in central Scotland, so no big deal if no one has used anyone, I’ll do some googling. 
 

I did have spare speakers, so the gig wasn’t a complete failure and I’ve ordered another speaker in case that one is toast. 

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As above most class D amps aren't repairable. when someone borrowed and blew my Behringer a few years back I did find someone in the UK who stocked replacement boards. At the time is was around £100 for complete amp and power supply which I thought reasonable. It will have gone up but you might be lucky.

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There are some that will attempt to repair Class D and SMPS. However, naughty Behringer do not publish their service info. The service agents in the UK are quite helpful within the limits of their contract with Music Tribe.

I have the guts of @Phil Starr's blown Behringer, and it was that amp, not the power supply, that was faulty. Sadly, the amp was a class D Chip, now fully obsolete. To be fair it was very well put together.

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On 04/10/2023 at 19:45, Angelus said:

Done a PA hire and sound for a friends band and one of the tops wouldn’t power up ( Behringer DR112DSP ). It’s out of warranty and looking for somewhere in central Scotland that repairs digital amps. I realise not everyone here is in central Scotland, so no big deal if no one has used anyone, I’ll do some googling. 
 

I did have spare speakers, so the gig wasn’t a complete failure and I’ve ordered another speaker in case that one is toast. 

If you don't mind the shipping cost to outer Mongolia, or Dorset if you prefer, I will have a look at it for you.

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Been told, by my friendly electronics expert, the fault is in SMPS control section. Sadly he can't isolate exactly which component is faulty without access to full workshop manual. He doesn't even recognise the type numbers of the individual components. 🙄

 

Is it still worth looking for courier costs to Dorset?

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On 07/10/2023 at 17:58, Angelus said:

Been told, by my friendly electronics expert, the fault is in SMPS control section. Sadly he can't isolate exactly which component is faulty without access to full workshop manual. He doesn't even recognise the type numbers of the individual components. 🙄

 

Is it still worth looking for courier costs to Dorset?

Can you take some pics of the inside.? 

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9 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

Can you take some pics of the inside.? 

Booked it in today at Fretronics in Glasgow, been told they’re reliable and very good with these sorts of things. Will update on what they say when I hear back. 👍

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  • 1 month later...
On 16/10/2023 at 08:24, Chienmortbb said:

Can you take some pics of the inside.? 

I’ve got it back now, still unrepaired, so I’ll take pictures this weekend. Apparently the power module has failed and Behringer won’t supply one to anyone, but told me to contact an authorised repairer. 
 

Bought a new one a couple of weeks ago, went to use it last night for the first time and the handle snapped off. 🙄

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On 16/11/2023 at 19:29, Angelus said:

I’ve got it back now, still unrepaired, so I’ll take pictures this weekend. Apparently the power module has failed and Behringer won’t supply one to anyone, but told me to contact an authorised repairer. 
 

Bought a new one a couple of weeks ago, went to use it last night for the first time and the handle snapped off. 🙄

Not the best advert for Behringer, either the PSU failure or the broken handle. I am still interested in looking at the insides, though.

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1 hour ago, Chienmortbb said:

Not the best advert for Behringer, either the PSU failure or the broken handle. I am still interested in looking at the insides, though.

Maybe posting the module down would be cheaper than posting the whole speaker? 🤔

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I can't find a schemtaic for this, but you never know Behringer might send you one. I'm no expert on this stuff but my general approach is ... Visual inspection look for anything burnt, leaking capacitors, corrosion etc.  Obvious stuff like checking if a physical switch has continuity, look for a thermal NTC fuse (black disk) and check fo rcontinuity. Anything like that blue relay with a model number you can lookup its spec sheet and see what it does https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/SMIH-05VDC-S-L-A.html.   In order to get the DC that runs internally there will be a transformer then a bridge rectifier OR a switch mode power supply like you get in the brick that supplies a laptop, although in my limited experience switch mode is usually too noisy for audio applications. The holes in the board and white lines denote that you are still on the high voltage side there, Follow the traces and see what comes after it. Sometimes voltages are printed on the PCB, carefully (because 240V ) have a poke about with a voltmeter with the negative lead on ground and see if you can determine whether there are any DC voltages after the High side, try not to touch 2 components at once! Sorry just a jumbled mess of stuff there but you are trying to to spot anything that looks wrong or stands out.  

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The first guy I gave it too had the schematic and tried all he can. I then sent it to the electronics expert, who is currently giving some pretty high profile bands gear the once over before going on a world tour and he said he couldn’t find a failed component, or get Behringer to supply him with spares. 🙄

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On 21/11/2023 at 23:29, Hacksawbob said:

I can't find a schemtaic for this, but you never know Behringer might send you one. I'm no expert on this stuff but my general approach is ... Visual inspection look for anything burnt, leaking capacitors, corrosion etc.  Obvious stuff like checking if a physical switch has continuity, look for a thermal NTC fuse (black disk) and check fo rcontinuity. Anything like that blue relay with a model number you can lookup its spec sheet and see what it does https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/SMIH-05VDC-S-L-A.html.   In order to get the DC that runs internally there will be a transformer then a bridge rectifier OR a switch mode power supply like you get in the brick that supplies a laptop, although in my limited experience switch mode is usually too noisy for audio applications. The holes in the board and white lines denote that you are still on the high voltage side there, Follow the traces and see what comes after it. Sometimes voltages are printed on the PCB, carefully (because 240V ) have a poke about with a voltmeter with the negative lead on ground and see if you can determine whether there are any DC voltages after the High side, try not to touch 2 components at once! Sorry just a jumbled mess of stuff there but you are trying to to spot anything that looks wrong or stands out.  

Had a good look, even got my magnifying glass out, but can’t see anything. 🙄 Looks like it’s going to end up a passive speaker? 🤷‍♂️

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