Phillip Simpkin Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 Hi all. I have a 1978 precision that has been severely gigged by me since 1980. I don't gig now but use it for recording. The surface lacquer is cracking and some hefty pieces have flaked off recently. Is there anywhere that I could go to with regard to removing and re finishing the surface? Thank you in advance guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burns-bass Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 There are lots of great refinishers out there. Unfortunately, doing so would affect the value of the bass. So, if you don’t care so much about the value, then by all means! The best thing to do is to tell us where you are based… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 16, 2023 Author Share Posted February 16, 2023 Hi. Thanks for the reply. I'm not really bothered so much about getting the bass re finished. I was wondering really if there was a way of stopping it all lifting and if it keeps falling off will it create problems with the bare wood underneath. It is a natural finish with maple neck. You can feel the ridge on the fret board where it has cracked off. Maybe you can see from the attached pics. I am in Widnes Cheshire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulThePlug Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 (edited) I'd have the lot off, then Danish Oil Finish... I've used these... https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/abrasives/halfords-contour-sanding-sponges-x3-496982 https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/abrasives/halfords-contour-sanding-sponges-x2-496990 Edited February 16, 2023 by PaulThePlug 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burns-bass Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Crikey, that’s quite extreme! As the expert above said you can strip and oil it, but this would change the feel of the neck (it would be bare wood, not a laquer), so you have to figure out whether you want that. Personally, I’d consider a refret and refinish and the neck would be as good as new. You can even leave the headstock as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralf1e Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 (edited) Where abouts are you? Do you want to keep the type of finish or just get it nice and tidy? I can do an oil rubbed finish for you as I have to my own. One shown on here in the build section and my Aria that was scruffy and is now due to get put back together. Edited February 17, 2023 by Ralf1e 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manton Customs Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, Burns-bass said: Personally, I’d consider a refret and refinish and the neck would be as good as new. Yes, if you want a consistent professional look then the frets have to come out first so that the fretboard can be properly stripped and sanded. Then refret and respray. As much as I love an oil finish (and I really do!), I wouldn’t use one for this. It wouldn’t be the right look and lacquer/poly would be more durable to keep the fretboard looking good long term. I lacquer the maple boards of my builds and restorations even if they’re getting oil on the back of the neck. Edited February 17, 2023 by Manton Customs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reggaebass Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 I’m not an expert but if that was mine I think I would have to go with a strip and re lacquer as that is the way it was, I’m pretty sure on a 78 the headstock logo is under the lacquer so you can leave that untouched, any pics of the whole bass 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 Thanks to everyone for the responses. Certainly leaves a lot to think about. The body is fine and thr front of the head stock is OK too. There is some lifting at the back of the head stock but nothing that gets in the way. It just seems to be the neck from the top nut to the body. Probably hasn't helped being exposed to 20 odd years on nicotine filled clubs and venues! It is stripped at the moment but here are some more pics. I am keen to keep it as original as possible as I was the second owner from new having bought it from a friend who never gigged it, but I need to be able to play it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 2 hours ago, Burns-bass said: Crikey, that’s quite extreme! As the expert above said you can strip and oil it, but this would change the feel of the neck (it would be bare wood, not a laquer), so you have to figure out whether you want that. Personally, I’d consider a refret and refinish and the neck would be as good as new. You can even leave the headstock as it is. Thanks for the advice burns bass👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 2 hours ago, Ralf1e said: Where abouts are you? Do you want to keep the type of finish or just get it nice and tidy? I can do an oil rubbed finish for you as I have to my own. One shown on here in the build section and my Aria that was scruffy and is now due to get put back together. Thank you Ralf1e, I'm in Widnes Cheshire. Your bass looks really smart by the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reggaebass Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Yeah lovely, there’s obviously some history there and you need it playable, maybe just strip and a light coat of lacquer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 45 minutes ago, Reggaebass said: I’m not an expert but if that was mine I think I would have to go with a strip and re lacquer as that is the way it was, I’m pretty sure on a 78 the headstock logo is under the lacquer so you can leave that untouched, any pics of the whole bass 🙂 45 minutes ago, Reggaebass said: I’m not an expert but if that was mine I think I would have to go with a strip and re lacquer as that is the way it was, I’m pretty sure on a 78 the headstock logo is under the lacquer so you can leave that untouched, any pics of the whole bass 🙂 Thanks Reggaebass, I'll have to check out some costs I think eh! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 59 minutes ago, Manton Customs said: Yes, if you want a consistent professional look then the frets have to come out first so that the fretboard can be properly stripped and sanded. Then refret and respray. As much as I love an oil finish (and I really do!), I wouldn’t use one for this. It wouldn’t be the right look and lacquer/poly would be more durable to keep the fretboard looking good long term. I lacquer the maple boards of my builds and restorations even if they’re getting oil on the back of the neck. 59 minutes ago, Manton Customs said: Yes, if you want a consistent professional look then the frets have to come out first so that the fretboard can be properly stripped and sanded. Then refret and respray. As much as I love an oil finish (and I really do!), I wouldn’t use one for this. It wouldn’t be the right look and lacquer/poly would be more durable to keep the fretboard looking good long term. I lacquer the maple boards of my builds and restorations even if they’re getting oil on the back of the neck. Thanks Manton Customs. I think this might be the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reggaebass Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 1 minute ago, Phillip Simpkin said: Thanks Reggaebass, I'll have to check out some costs I think eh! My 71 P is fine and it’s not leaving me any time soon, but if it needed it I would get it done , I’ve no idea of the cost though but worth looking into I think 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 Just now, Reggaebass said: My 71 P is fine and it’s not leaving me any time soon, but if it needed it I would get it done , I’ve no idea of the cost though but worth looking into I think 🙂 👍 Just now, Reggaebass said: My 71 P is fine and it’s not leaving me any time soon, but if it needed it I would get it done , I’ve no idea of the cost though but worth looking into I think 🙂 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martthebass Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 For playability purposes I’d consider it definitely needs a refin. Personally I’d go for a vintage tint poly lacquer which would make it look fairly period correct. I had a maple neck MM refinned by Shuker a few years back with a stainless refret at very reasonable cost. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralf1e Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Now Ive seen the whole thing I believe it is worth spending the money on and keeping it as original as is possible and the frets need some serious work anyway. Good as new and genuinely pre-aged.👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burns-bass Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Hope it works out and keep us updated on what you do (and if you’re happy to share, what it costs). Reckon we’d all be interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 When the finish starts lifting off like that it's normally because moisture has got in somewhere and the only effective way to fix it would be to strip off ALL the old lacquer and refinish. You can see from the "milky" appearance of some of the finish that is still in place that it is no longer properly bonded to the wood and any of the old finish that you leave in place is just going to be a starting point for new problems later on. If you take it someone who really knows what they are doing they may be able to save the area around the logo provided that the finish hasn't already started lifting elsewhere on the front of the headstock. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 31 minutes ago, BigRedX said: When the finish starts lifting off like that it's normally because moisture has got in somewhere and the only effective way to fix it would be to strip off ALL the old lacquer and refinish. You can see from the "milky" appearance of some of the finish that is still in place that it is no longer properly bonded to the wood and any of the old finish that you leave in place is just going to be a starting point for new problems later on. If you take it someone who really knows what they are doing they may be able to save the area around the logo provided that the finish hasn't already started lifting elsewhere on the front of the headstock. Thanks Big RedX. You are right about the milky look and I agree that it will lift shortly unless addressed. It's lived in numerous kinds of vehicles over a period of about 20 years but lives in my nice warm spare room / studio now. It's probably due to years of sweaty gigs then damp vehicles. 35 minutes ago, BigRedX said: When the finish starts lifting off like that it's normally because moisture has got in somewhere and the only effective way to fix it would be to strip off ALL the old lacquer and refinish. You can see from the "milky" appearance of some of the finish that is still in place that it is no longer properly bonded to the wood and any of the old finish that you leave in place is just going to be a starting point for new problems later on. If you take it someone who really knows what they are doing they may be able to save the area around the logo provided that the finish hasn't already started lifting elsewhere on the front of the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 2 hours ago, martthebass said: For playability purposes I’d consider it definitely needs a refin. Personally I’d go for a vintage tint poly lacquer which would make it look fairly period correct. I had a maple neck MM refinned by Shuker a few years back with a stainless refret at very reasonable cost. That looks great Mart. Where abouts can I find contact details for Shuker please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Simpkin Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 3 hours ago, martthebass said: For playability purposes I’d consider it definitely needs a refin. Personally I’d go for a vintage tint poly lacquer which would make it look fairly period correct. I had a maple neck MM refinned by Shuker a few years back with a stainless refret at very reasonable cost. 1 hour ago, Burns-bass said: Hope it works out and keep us updated on what you do (and if you’re happy to share, what it costs). Reckon we’d all be interested. 1 hour ago, Burns-bass said: Hope it works out and keep us updated on what you do (and if you’re happy to share, what it costs). Reckon we’d all be interested. Thanks again and I will defo post the results and costs etc 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martthebass Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 3 hours ago, Phillip Simpkin said: That looks great Mart. Where abouts can I find contact details for Shuker please. https://shukerguitars.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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