BrunoBass Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 12 hours ago, discreet said: As far as electrics are concerned, the easiest way is to buy a pre-wired kit from KiOgon of this parish. You don't even need to be able to use a soldering iron. I can, but I find it a lot easier to simply drop in a Kiogon kit. Then you can forget about it - safe in the knowledge that it will do its thing perfectly for the rest of time. Sounds good, I might look in to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 12 hours ago, discreet said: Wait, that white/black/maple looks kind of familiar... It certainly is a classy look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 5 minutes ago, PaulGibsonBass said: Sounds good, I might look in to this. Do - he only uses top quality components (CTS, Switchcraft) and his build quality is second to none. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 In the last few days my machine heads, bridge and neck plate have all arrived. I’m hoping the grain filler will arrrive tomorrow as I have a bit of spare time when I can do the first application. I’m thinking about adding a tug bar for purely cosmetic reasons too as I think they look pretty cool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnDaBass Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 On 16/03/2018 at 11:52, discreet said: Do - he only uses top quality components (CTS, Switchcraft) and his build quality is second to none. John can also help on tailoring the right type and value of capacitor to achieve your desired tone. Great guy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 (edited) The Rustins grain filler arrived this morning so I managed to do one application. What a horrible messy process that is.... one coat liberally applied and then rubbed off as directed. The directions recommend rubbing it in with a rag before rubbing off, but I think on the second application (and it will definitely need a second application) I might brush it on and scrape it off with a plastic spatula, as I’ve seen done on YouTube. I can see why people do natural oiled finishes instead of solid colours. I really want a solid colour and the grain isn’t particularly attractive anyway, so I’m pressing on, but natural seems to be much less hassle than solid colouring such a porous wood. According to the directions I need to leave it a day before sanding, so I’ll do that and a second coat tomorrow hopefully. Edited March 21, 2018 by PaulGibsonBass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 i'm at exactly this stage it looks like you've got it quite watery there ? are you planning to use sanding sealer ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Yep the directions recommend mixing it into a thin paste, the consistency of poring cream - it’s a bit of a faff to be honest. For the next project I’ll use a wood that doesn’t need grain filling. I’m not going to bother with sanding sealer, if the grain filler does it’s job I hopefully won’t need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, BrunoBass said: Yep the directions recommend mixing it into a thin paste, the consistency of poring cream - it’s a bit of a faff to be honest. For the next project I’ll use a wood that doesn’t need grain filling. I’m not going to bother with sanding sealer, if the grain filler does it’s job I hopefully won’t need it. It's a faff because Paulownia is so grainy and porous. Personally I think it's worth it, because the advantages outweigh the disadvantages - it's likely to be the lightest P Bass you've ever played. If weight isn't an issue for you though, then not so much. Edited March 21, 2018 by discreet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Anything that saves my back and shoulder over a two hour set will be very welcome. I’m wondering if neckdive will be an issue? Luckily the bridge I’ve got is fairly chunky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 12 minutes ago, BrunoBass said: Anything that saves my back and shoulder over a two hour set will be very welcome. I’m wondering if neckdive will be an issue? Luckily the bridge I’ve got is fairly chunky. My Paulownia Jazz had slight neck dive with standard tuners so I fitted Hipshot Ultralites, which saved half a pound at the headstock. No neck dive, and the bass weighs a smidgen over 7lb. It feels light as a feather. My P Bass is 9.5lb and feels like a boat anchor. Any weight that can be saved makes a huge difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 (edited) 16 hours ago, BrunoBass said: Yep the directions recommend mixing it into a thin paste, the consistency of poring cream - it’s a bit of a faff to be honest. For the next project I’ll use a wood that doesn’t need grain filling. I’m not going to bother with sanding sealer, if the grain filler does it’s job I hopefully won’t need it. @BrunoBass bruno, as you know I'm doing a pawlownia jazz - I recommend using sanding sealer as it really makes the grain jump out - see my build thread photos; I've just uploaded an A/B photo of with and without sanding sealer on a piece of pine. Found that the perfect tool for applying it is a clean washing-up sponge. Edited March 22, 2018 by Geek99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 (edited) 17 hours ago, discreet said: ...My P Bass is 9.5lb and feels like a boat anchor... Those inspirational words caused me to scurry away to my development kennel and cook up a cunning design for bassists with a nautical bent. I call it the The Chapmanchor: Edited March 22, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 1 minute ago, SpondonBassed said: Those inspirational words caused me to scurry away to my development kennel and cook up a cunning design for bassists with a nautical bent. I call it the The Chapmanchor: Wow. I'm sure it could also be adapted for use as a crossbow, in case there are any critics in the audience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 23 minutes ago, discreet said: Wow. I'm sure it could also be adapted for use as a crossbow, in case there are any critics in the audience. Why complicate things? All you need to do is shout 'Catch!' as you chuck it in the heckler's direction. You might have the hassle of having to fetch it back but you won't be bothered for the remainder of the performance, I guarantee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 Second pass of grain filler today. I mixed it up thicker than the first application (used up the rest of the tub) and really slathered it on, not really what the directions suggest but I managed to cover everything and rub away the excess to reveal some nicely filled grain and a couple of small dings that I hadn’t noticed before, now filled. Next job, sand it back, drill neck holes and apply primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 Sanding sanding sanding. And more sanding still to do. Lesson learned: remove as much excess grain filler as possible before leaving to dry...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Alternatively, make a very large pick guard in the colour you want. (Sometimes this is known as a top) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prowla Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 FYI, here's my orange Precision. Fender neck, Squier body, Badass bridge II, Shadow pickups, Schaller Straplocks, wiring loom I made. I also plan to get a Hipshot eXtender/D-tuner for it at some point. I previously had a Mighty Mite fretless neck on it, but I swapped it over for the fretted Fender one. I might pick up a black Fender body and reinstate the fretless; if I do, I'll make it all Fender, including a Fender Hi-Mass bridge on it and a Fender Precision pickup (both of which I have in my parts box). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 5 hours ago, prowla said: FYI, here's my orange Precision. Fender neck, Squier body, Badass bridge II, Shadow pickups, Schaller Straplocks, wiring loom I made. I also plan to get a Hipshot eXtender/D-tuner for it at some point. I previously had a Mighty Mite fretless neck on it, but I swapped it over for the fretted Fender one. I might pick up a black Fender body and reinstate the fretless; if I do, I'll make it all Fender, including a Fender Hi-Mass bridge on it and a Fender Precision pickup (both of which I have in my parts box). That looks stunning. I was veering towards an aged Olympic White but your bass is making me think maybe go back to the original plan of Orange. Thanks for sharing the photo. Was the body already painted or did you do it? Is it Capri Orange? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prowla Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 4 hours ago, BrunoBass said: That looks stunning. I was veering towards an aged Olympic White but your bass is making me think maybe go back to the original plan of Orange. Thanks for sharing the photo. Was the body already painted or did you do it? Is it Capri Orange? I picked it up painted (someone else's abandoned project); I think it was probably a rattle-can Capri Orange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 @Andyjr1515 kindly suggested clear satin Osmo Polyx oil as a good way to achieve a clear, durable, satin finish on the headstock face, protecting the decal. Unfortunately, having checked the documents on their website, Rothko and Frost state that their waterslide decals aren’t suitable for oil and / or brushed on finishes. Shame, as I’ve ordered one.... So I need a rethink on finishing the headstock face and burying the decal under a non tinted satin clear coat. The headstock already has a light satin finish, so I’m thinking waterslide on to the surface, followed by enough coats of satin clear to bury it. Does satin clear coat need wet sanding and polishing like a gloss does? Would wet sanding and polished just turn a satin glossy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prowla Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 8 hours ago, BrunoBass said: @Andyjr1515 kindly suggested clear satin Osmo Polyx oil as a good way to achieve a clear, durable, satin finish on the headstock face, protecting the decal. Unfortunately, having checked the documents on their website, Rothko and Frost state that their waterslide decals aren’t suitable for oil and / or brushed on finishes. Shame, as I’ve ordered one.... So I need a rethink on finishing the headstock face and burying the decal under a non tinted satin clear coat. The headstock already has a light satin finish, so I’m thinking waterslide on to the surface, followed by enough coats of satin clear to bury it. Does satin clear coat need wet sanding and polishing like a gloss does? Would wet sanding and polished just turn a satin glossy? What's your logo? I have a spaghetti font "Prowla" waterslide logo waiting to be put on the headstock of the MM which was previously on the above bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 (edited) On 26/03/2018 at 22:28, BrunoBass said: Sanding sanding sanding. And more sanding still to do. Lesson learned: remove as much excess grain filler as possible before leaving to dry...... manchester guitar tech says exactly that in his guide; further that one should work on a small area at a time. For this reason I found that a sponge is the perfect tool Edited March 28, 2018 by Geek99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, prowla said: What's your logo? I have a spaghetti font "Prowla" waterslide logo waiting to be put on the headstock of the MM which was previously on the above bass. It’s ‘Bruno’ in a Fender-y font and ‘CUSTOM BASS’ in the classic arched capital letters. I don’t want to put a Fender logo on it. The ‘Bruno’ bit comes from my little boy (as does my username); he wants to help me assemble the bass. Edited March 28, 2018 by BrunoBass 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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