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Andyjr1515

scrumpymike's (a) Rascal

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Both equally superb in slightly different ways but I want to stay faithful to the wood's 'natural' state.  My wood-cutter mate Merv told me how they used to wipe off the stumps of the trees they'd felled while they were still wet with the rising sap.  He reckoned they looked like shiny, natural wood table-tops that had been freshly wax-polished and laid out on the ground. That's the effect I'm after - over to you Andy ^_^

Edited by scrumpymike

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2 minutes ago, scrumpymike said:

Both equally superb in slightly different ways but I want to stay faithful to the wood's 'natural' state.  My wood-cutter mate Merv told me how they used to wipe off the stumps of the trees they'd felled while they were still wet with the rising sap.  He reckoned they looked like shiny, natural wood table-tops that had been freshly wax-polished and laid out on the ground. That's the effect I'm after - over to you Andy ^_^

I love walnut in any finish or guise :)    

However, in real life, it's the Osmo treated version that has the warmth and tone of the original untreated, air-exposed wood:  

nT4p1W4l.jpg

 

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I'm not sure which I prefer - Mike must be chuffed to have the choice....

Good work Andy.

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The headstock plate is too thin to attempt MoP inlays, but Mike and I thought it might be fun to be able to see at least a little of the original Rascal colour :D:

HhRwqKdl.jpg

Once the edges have been sanded to match exactly the original headstock, all it will need is some strips of thin double-sided tape to fully secure it - the bushes and string tree will do the rest :)

 

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And in the meantime, I'm applying some Osmo Polyx 3032 satin on top of the 3044 so that we retain the colour but get a nice semi-gloss. 

I'm doing a bit of an experiment with the way of applying the Osmo.  If it works I'll post the photos....and if it doesn't, I'll quietly sand it off and do it the way the instructions say xD

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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Which will break first - Andy or the Osmo... xD

Well....so far, I think the Osmo is going to blink first.  But I'd better wait until the morning when it will be fully dry before I do my victory lap ;)

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18 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Well....so far, I think the Osmo is going to blink first.  But I'd better wait until the morning when it will be fully dry before I do my victory lap ;)

It's morning.

 

Just sayin' :P

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What Naxos said...I knew anyway..

That Satin finish is amazing - really brings the grain to life.

Mike must be suffering while he's waiting...:dash1:

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So what was my experiment?

It was seeing if something I did on Mick's Psilos bass in matt, would work on satin.

The above is halfway through the process but I'm confident it's working.

On Mick's Psilos, I experimented whether you could do the same 'slurry and buff' approach with Osmo as you can with Tru-oil.  And the answer was that you certainly could.  Using the same approach as Tru-oil, the process eded up as a self-grainfilling, super silky finish.

So what's the issue with higher gloss levels?  Well my problem is always about trying to keep the coating thin but it actually levelling properly without leaving brushmarks or cloth-wipe ripples.  I knew I wasn't going to be able to buff satin while wet - because the additional applications tend to soften the earlier coats and that affects the gloss level - but I could do a variation.

So basically, what I have done so far is:

  • Apply a decent coat with a soft brush
  • Slurry with 400 grit wet and dry, working with the grain
  • Wipe off with (industrial - cheaper and bigger rolls) kitchen roll
  • Let dry
  • Repeat
  • Repeat, but using 800 grit

The results are very encouraging with the shine coming through but the thin-coat-organic-silky feel retained

Tomorrow, I will repeat, using 1500 or 2000 grit.  It shouldn't need any more.

For my 'piccolo-bass turned electric' project that I'm doing for myself, I'm going to see if I can get it to work with full gloss.  I've tried Osmo full gloss once before and had a few issues, but the above approach might just work.  Worth trying...

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Yesssss - that's it, that's EXACTLY IT!!  And it's just dark enough to contrast well with the bright hardware.

'Wizard of Osmo' it is then :D

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1 hour ago, TheGreek said:

What Naxos said...I knew anyway..

That Satin finish is amazing - really brings the grain to life.

Mike must be suffering while he's waiting...:dash1:

Well worth the wait, as you already know Mick ^_^.  It's like a gripping serial on the telly - you can't wait for the next installment.

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Onto the headstock plate.

Most important lesson learned during my early veneering work - always know where the holes are before you cover them up!

ywQpOXfl.jpg

 

String tree hole drilled and thin double sided tape applied:

LAqqrZXl.jpg

 

Not perfect, but fit for purpose as a fully reversible mod:

baK1FBil.jpg

 

The (probably final) additional coat of the Osmo worked well:

VZ466qJl.jpg

 

And full view:

KVQ0D0el.jpg

 

Rear view - the hatches have still got to have the edges tidied up but they seat nicely and almost certainly will be fine with magnetic catches:

5aTrIjel.jpg

70Wmfl4l.jpg

 

We are moving to machine screws (like Wal) rather than the standard Fender screws.  Got some nice stainless allen key machine screws for it but the supplier sent the wrong type of captive nuts - replacements should be with me Monday.

Still to do:

  • Tidy up the rear hatch edges
  • Install neck captive nuts
  • Fit magnetic catches
  • Copper-foil shield control chamber
  • Install pickups, switch and pots
  • Install strap buttons
  • Install bridge
  • Set up 

That's not too bad - and I'm really pleased how this is starting to look :)

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"That's not too bad - and I'm really pleased how this is starting to look :)"

 

You and me both bro' (not forgetting Mrs. Scrumpy, who loves it to bits).

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