Stingray type custom build...

[LukeFRC]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498113665' post='3322539']
It's all looking good, Luke

...and worth getting that neck pocket template absolutely right. You do right to abandon the ones that aren't perfect
[/quote] it's mainly as the router brushing needs the template to be offset by 2.5mm - easy for body shape and pickup and control as I know the size of them and can then make them bigger - neck not as easy... top bearing router bit would be the answer but loath to buy one.

[LukeFRC]

Might need to!

[scojack]

I think you need the flush template bit, you can then test your template properly against the neck.
I use the Stew-Mac ones but they are quite pricey.

[url="http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Routers_and_Bits/Bits/Ball_Bearing_Router_Bits.html"]http://www.stewmac.c...outer_Bits.html[/url]

Ian

Edited June 22, 2017 by scojack

[JPJ]

A useful tip for neck pockets is take a lot of the material out with a forstner drill bit preferable in a pillar drill first. That way you have less chance of the router 'digging in' or 'kicking' messing up the neck pocket. For future reference, I normally cut the neck pocket first before the body profile as it gives you a bigger surface to support the template and router, and its easier to line everything up with nice square edges.

[Norris]

If truth be told, a short top bearing bit is the easier route. Failing that, make your template slightly undersized and test/sand/test until it's right

[LukeFRC]

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1498143363' post='3322786']
A useful tip for neck pockets is take a lot of the material out with a forstner drill bit preferable in a pillar drill first. That way you have less chance of the router 'digging in' or 'kicking' messing up the neck pocket. For future reference, I normally cut the neck pocket first before the body profile as it gives you a bigger surface to support the template and router, and its easier to line everything up with nice square edges.
[/quote] i think someone advised to do the pocket first. And that was my plan... and then I got all excited about starting and went cut the body out! Oh well. I've done a fair few hours and it's not gone irretrievably wrong yet.
I have invested in some cheaper forstner drill bits, and borrowed a drill press i can clamp my drill into...

I spent a few hours this evening playing with templates for the neck pocket. I've got a version planned of a way that should work that I saw on the net... slightly modified to give me the offset.
I also did one by eye and got it pretty close- as in I could use it and it would be fine. Tight on the sides, but maybe 1mm gap at the end as the rounded bit wasn't quite right. I took the truss wheel off as that can be an extra cut. could do that with a chisel if needed.

[Jabba_the_gut]

Just following on rom what others have said, I really think you would find this easier with a template cutter router bit. They aren't that expensive - I
think I paid about £6 for one off eBay of a certain depth that I wanted specifically for cutting neck pockets. They really make life easier and remove a lot of the trial and error.

These are the steps I would typically do to make a neck pocket template (just remember that mdf produces a fine dust and if you use a router to cut it it goes everywhere so make sure you use the right mask, dust extraction etc.)

Get a piece of 9mm mdf and make out the body shape. This might seem quite big but this will give the router base plenty of support when you cut the pocket. You could also use the same piece of mdf for the pickup template. Mark out on the centre line where the neck pocket should end.



Put the neck on the template and line up to where the end of the neck pocket will be. Get some strips of wood with a straight edge about 6mm thick and run them down the side of the neck. By using long enough strips you can measure from the centre line where the bridge will be to make sure everything is in line.



Use some panel pins and nail the strips in place. Check and measure again (the good old 'measure twice, cut once' thingy) to make sure they are still tight against the neck and still correctly aligned. Pin another couple of strips parallel to these. They don't need to be accurately place as they are just to provide support for the router base to keep it level when you cut the template. Make sure all the heads of the pins are just below the surface of the wood so they don't snag on the router base.



Use a small strip and pin this where the neck pocket ends. Add a second piece to support the router as before.



Cut out the bulk of neck pocket leaving 1 to 2mm around the edge to finish off with the router. This is just to minimise the amount of dust the router will create. Fit a template cutter and cut the last of the pocket by running the bearing against the wood strips that were pinned on. Once cut, try the neck in the template pocket - should be a snug fit. Remove the wood strips. This is a cheap template cutter I use.



The template is ready to use. As you have already cut the body shape a bit of support might be needed to prevent the template bending when you use the router. Take an offcut from the body and use this, as it will be the right thickness, to support the template either side of the pocket. You can align the template along the centre line of the body.



Use Forstner bits to cut the bulk then finish off with the router. Jobs a good 'un!!

Edited June 24, 2017 by Jabba_the_gut

[LukeFRC]

[quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1498288040' post='3323616']
Just following on rom what others have said, I really think you would find this easier with a template cutter router bit. They aren't that expensive - I
think I paid about £6 for one off eBay of a certain depth that I wanted specifically for cutting neck pockets. They really make life easier and remove a lot of the trial and error.

These are the steps I would typically do to make a neck pocket template (just remember that mdf produces a fine dust and if you use a router to cut it it goes everywhere so make sure you use the right mask, dust extraction etc.)

[/quote] Jabba that is amazing - thanks for sharing.

That above is how it should be done. My first attempt at a offset-jig was useless - all wavy lines and space all around it.

This is attempt two:



The sides were just about good enough, the bottom wasn't perfectly parallel but it would have worked. The heel was a bit of a mess though - I tried to cut use the drill to put the corners on and then fret saw with curve between them. Needless to say it didn't work.
Mind you I've seen worse in the shops, and when the truss wheel thing goes on it won't be as noticeable.

[LukeFRC]

Then I read Jabba's post and decided to to it the proper way.

Except Mrs FRC had the laptop so I couldn't order any router bits.


So I went into the outhouse again....


I was so close so lets try again.

Using the previous template as a starting place i got a bit of MDF nailed on straight edges for the bottom bearing bit i've got. This time I used the radius of the router bit for the corners and went across square at the end.
Once I had routed the straight edges of the template out of the MDF it gets nailed onto a bit of scrap pine skirting boards and tested.

As this was me just mucking about before I bought a new router bit I used a bit of scrap I had already used.... You can see my first attempt at a template on the same bit of MDF

[LukeFRC]

so how to make the bottom bit? take the template off... sand a bit. Put it back on, rout, test, and so on...


Ahaha! that's pretty good

[LukeFRC]

And the neck fits!

Edited June 24, 2017 by LukeFRC

[LukeFRC]

Very tight (probably too tight) fit.
I later used a chisel to chip out (roughly) the space for the truss wheel thing.

I think that given I've got a template that works with my current tools I may use it* to cut the pocket.



*obviously I'll be copying it onto a different bit of wood that can be accurately positioned.

[LukeFRC]

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1498309893' post='3323789']
so how to make the bottom bit? take the template off... sand a bit. Put it back on, rout, test, and so on...


Ahaha! that's pretty good


[/quote] it's pretty good... but the radius isn't quite perfect is it?
when the hell did I become such a perfectionist? I guess I may also have similar radius problems with the pickup routs.

So router bit ordered off eBay. For future reference best search term to use is "template router bit" and look for UK companies - I got mine for £4 off a company in Halifax

[mcnach]

Fantastic thread... loving it!

[LukeFRC]

So I went to make a template for when my router bit turned up... and actually couldn't get the radii on the corner as close as my offset template...

so canceled the router bit order...

[LukeFRC]

and back to the old jig... and lots and lots of practice cuts....

I kinda get now what AndyJr1515 means when you sit and think about things and how to make it work.... I've not done this in the most sensible way.... but if the end result works then hey ho!

After routing 6 test pieces without making a bigger guide I also decided I didn't need a bigger guide! (which was a good thing cos the bit of wood I was going to cut a bigger guide with I cut wrong in order to make a guide to get the pocket line up straight...

[LukeFRC]

I think they call this hogging out. I'm going to borrow a better drill for the neck bolts cos I'm not impressed with how stable this SDS chuck is - to be fair it's not really designed for this. I borrowed this drill holding press contraption.

There is a guide trimmed to the shape of the body that means I can position it accurately for routing other bits out.

My cut template is the thing nail onto the top of it.

[LukeFRC]

So the body was cut with the join in the middle of the body as the centre line. A wee laser guide helped me line everything up with that line... so hopefully the neck will go on straight.

Depth was worked out as (neck height on E + fret height) - bridge saddle height at lowest setting = 13mm
used hipshot spec sheet - the bonus of using a decent bridge rather than an a eBay cheapy.

So after I've cut the pocket I'll test the neck fit.... it's tight!

[LukeFRC]

oh and don't worry - If I've planned it right those screws are into the pickup cavities. ...


anyway.


Ta dah!


the black stuff isn't burning, it's the finish of the neck rubbing off.... I would rather have it too tight than too loose...

[LukeFRC]

which means that I can hold the body up using the neck alone held in by the pocket*!


[size=1]*for short periods of time with my hand under the body to catch it if it did drop.... [/size]

[LukeFRC]

By the way - I've realised that this looks like step by step pictures.
just to say [b][i]I don't actually know what I'm doing! [/i][/b]get your tips and guides from people correcting me on this post!

[Norris]

I hope your neck pocket isn't too tight. Remember you're going to put some sort of finish on it - paint or lacquer? (I can't recall how you are finishing it) That will make the pocket even more snug

Edit: Very good methodical work though. Nicely done

Edited June 25, 2017 by Norris

[Andyjr1515]

Very good progress. You are clambering up that learning curve at an impressive rate

[LukeFRC]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498454051' post='3324654']
Very good progress. You are clambering up that learning curve at an impressive rate
[/quote] thanks! It's great fun and if I go slow enough I won't cock it up!

im at a split now - it's either roundover and sanding time - or bridge/pickups and other cavities
Is there a preferred order?

[JPJ]

Personally, I'd go for the pickups and other cavities whilst the body blank is still flat and able to support the router. For rounding over the edges its more router work, but for forearm contour and belly cut, I use a belt sander to do all the heavy work.