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Custom Semi Acoustic Modifications


Andyjr1515
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[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1469279222' post='3097148']
I'm not quite sure why, other than the difficulty of doing it, but as far as I know, semi acoustics generally aren't shielded. Anyone got a view?

I only asked, as I have a vague memory of a guitarist mate of mine having an Ibanez semi from the eighties, I have an even vaguer memory of that having a sort of tinfoil bath around the controls (on the inside of course).
Having said that, I fully accept that I'm not as young as I was, and memory can be a finicky mistress.
In short, I might be talking total sh*t..... :blink:
[/quote]

Shielding control chambers is a common thing to do, Stuart. Some people use conductive paint and others, me included, use copper foil. This is Kert's Camphor bass:


...but to work, it's got to be a full Faraday cage - it has to be earthed and the cover is also covered and earthed. That's why I say it would be very difficult to do that on a semi that - as with most traditional semi's - don't have a control chamber and hatch. Not sure how you would get any conductive shielding into the body cavity. Maybe the Ibanez had a Les-Paul like chamber?

Anyway, though - decent question. Anyone know?

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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1469280211' post='3097153']
It's a very nice bass and worth the effort :)

I have some maple veneer that I am going to try. It will always look like an infill but, if I can continue the heel black line too, hopefully it will look more like it's supposed to be there...
[/quote]
Sounds perfect!

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Cross-grain maple.....cross-grain maple....where have I used that before?

Although I have some maple veneer, the cutout is a couple of mm deep and veneer is only 0.6mm thick. Yes, I could fill it but it would be better if I could remember where I've seen some thicker stuff. Maybe a head-stock plate?


GOT IT! :D

You use cross-grain maple to strengthen the back join of an acoustic:




I had a rummage around in my bits box and found this:


And it's the right width.


And there's a bit of spare if I cock one of them up.

It's been a good day!

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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1469303806' post='3097321']
Still have to chisel and sand this flush, stain it as close to the neck colour as possible and varnish, but the first side is in :) :


[/quote]Spot on, Andy! Thats going to look a treat.

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Bit of tidying up to do, but this is the above side:



...and this is the other side:



Neither bear super-close examination - the light catches the grain differently to the neck so in some lights they look lighter and others they look darker, and without stripping the whole neck and refinishing it is difficult to hide the join - but it is nevertheless a great improvement on the original.

Waiting for the EQ to arrive but today I should be able to at least finish the other bits and pieces ready for the final re-assembly. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but today's tasks will include drilling and countersinking the back cover screw holes, checking the fret levels, polishing the frets and cleaning the fretboard.

All being well, end of this week should see this on its way back to Stuart :)

Edited by Andyjr1515
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I've spent some time levelling and re-crowning the frets. They were, as the technical description goes, 'all over the place'.

Nothing hugely out and nothing loose, but high spots - mostly middle to treble or middle to bass on about 1/3 of the frets. After levelling the high spots with a diamond plate, I then recrowned with a Hosco crowning file, then ditto with progressively finer micro-web down to 12000 grit.

They look nice and shiny but the main thing is that they are level and round-topped :) :


Next is to clean and re-oil the fretboard.

In the meantime, the EQ has arrived :D

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[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1469461277' post='3098488']
There's something very satisfying looking at newly polished frets (specially when someone else has done the job). All nice and shiney. This is looking fantastic.
[/quote]

+1

My thoughts exactly. The maple looks a lot nicer than the plastic, even if the grain isn't identical.

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Now the frets are done and the fretboard cleaned up a bit, it makes you appreciate the quality of the original build. How's these for inlays?





I think we're on the home straight.

Stuart's preference is to retain the three-way switch instead of the Seymour Duncan's STC-3P EQ's blend and also to go for separate treble and bass pots rather than using the supplied stacked pot. The nice thing is that this allows exactly the same control configuration as the original - and also we can use the original's wooden knobs :)

The knobs were all drilled for grub screws but no grubscrews were in the holes. Normal knob grubscrews were too large but I found some old stratocaster bridge saddles in my bits box. Cut down with a dremel cutting disc, the height adjustment grubscrews from those were perfect!:


The replacement 100k centre-detent pots for splitting the tone controls arrived this morning, so I should be able to start the electronics later today...

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[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1469708310' post='3100490']
Phew. Rather you than me. If I was doing this wiring it would[list=1]
[*]never work again and I'd
[*]manage to give myself an almost fatal electric shock from a 9v battery.
[/list]
:ph34r:
[/quote]

:lol:

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Difficult to get perfect wiring runs with so many cross lines on the looms, but the main thing is to try to avoid wires crossing the 'f' hole (approx marked on the cardboard):




On a scale of 1 to 10 what do you think the chances are of this working first time?

Minus 3???

Edited by Andyjr1515
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