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New Project - Bubinga Fretless


Andyjr1515
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[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1429632940' post='2753454']
I used to own a lefty Thumb BO4 and found the neck would dive so be interesting to see if your body design tweaks will alleviate the issue whilst still keeping to a compact body shape.
Another small body shape you could consider blending into the mix could be that of a more symmetrical SG but with contouring or is that just impractical?
[/quote]
Hi sblueplanet
The tribute I built didn't suffer from neck dive....although I fully expected it. I tend to build a bit weighty (never cross a bridge I've designed - it is likely to collapse through pure weight!) so I suspect that is why :). Time will tell...I'm starting my exercises already :)

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The 'under-wraps' project is getting very close to completion so I'm moving back to this one in the spare moments (it's going to be a long job!). This morning I got the thicknesser out and skimmed the bubinga to see what the figuring is like under the crud.

It's very nice :)

This is the one side:


...and this is the other:



I've got a couple of commissions coming so this will continue to take the 'do bits when I can' priority...

Andy

Edited by Andyjr1515
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Life, they say, is all about grabbing opportunities when you can...so, while I'm cutting some MDF for a 'little job around the house' I've been stalling for the past 32 years, I just may as well cut the template for this :D

I'm going to stick with my design for the top horn, but use alittlebitrobot's design for the bottom horn. As such, the soldering-iron burnt-in logo across the front of the bass will now read 'alittleb..'. Seem fair?

If it stays dry in the morning, I'll also straighten up the joining faces of the body wood.

Andy

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[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1430567740' post='2762683']
I'll pass this under the nose of my legal team, but it all seems good to me. I just ordered a router and spent a few days making templates so I'm less concerned with imposing myself on other peoples builds now :D
[/quote]
:lol:

So, I know it's hardly a start but I've rough cut out the template for this:



If alittlebitrobot's legal team would please note:[list]
[*]I've used his lower horn
[*]I've ignored his upper horn (mine now looks like a 'thumb' that's recently spent a day in a brewery...)
[*]I haven't [i]exactly[/i] ignored his angled transition from upper horn neck join to lower horn neck join, it's just that - with my crazy way of building these things - I would only rout it away anyway. What I [i]will[/i] do is put that angle into the back of the neck at the transition. The SG 6-string I did (below) has the same construction method, so this is where you will see that angle...
[/list]


I trust alittlebitrobot's legal team will begin preparations to sue me for every penny I've got...won't cost me much, then :lol:

Andy

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Well, actually, my legal team are currently busy suing [i]me [/i]for forgetting to pay them, so I'd say you're safe enough to just go ahead.

Incidentally, I see your SG has a Warwick cavity cover. Did you buy that or what? I'm not sure how to approach covering the cavity of my build. I might buy one (but they seem expensive) or make one out of mdf with a body-wood veneer.

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[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1430582084' post='2762861']
Well, actually, my legal team are currently busy suing [i]me [/i]for forgetting to pay them, so I'd say you're safe enough to just go ahead.

Incidentally, I see your SG has a Warwick cavity cover. Did you buy that or what? I'm not sure how to approach covering the cavity of my build. I might buy one (but they seem expensive) or make one out of mdf with a body-wood veneer.
[/quote]

Yes - I bought a Warwick cover from Thomann - I liked the ease with which you could open them...until I twigged that, with passive humbuckers, why would you WANT to open them??? :rolleyes:

Last few I've done, I've used a headstock plate-thickness piece of the same wood as the body back:

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's all day digging the daughter's garden tomorrow, so I've done as much as I can today. That has included tackling Paul S's Shergold neck slimming (thread in Repairs and Technical) and the next vital step in the bubinga fretless - squaring up the mating sides of the 2-part body blanks.

I don't have a workshop (or even proper workbench!) but I live in hope and, in anticipation, have been learning as many woodworking skills as I can. That has included how to sharpen a plane blade, and set up a plane to cut properly. For the mating surfaces, I would normally use a router - guaranteed right angles to the top face :) but I know that carpenters use a plane and shooting board. So...why not try...

Here's my makeshift shooting board:



It's basically a piece of marine ply on top of the patio table :rolleyes:

Not the best way round for using the plane, but it was the only way I could clamp it.

Bubinga is b****y hard! Nevertheless, and chasing the patio table round the garden, it seemed to be starting to square up and straighten up :o



I've NEVER been able to do that before....old dogs, old tricks

With a final short sanding using the aluminium beam with some 120 grit stuck on, this was the result:






That's free standing....no daylight anywhere....slightly gobsmacked....never done THAT before, usually takes me all weekend... :D

Next job, joining the two halves and band-sawing the shape out.

Thanks for looking
Andy

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I'm waiting for some bits for the couple of other projects so took advantage of a dry morning to do a bit more on this. In the process, I have found the design limits of my cheap bandsaw (more of which later)

First thing was to place the two halves of bubinga together, cut out the body shape out of some A2 paper and try the various permutations and combinations to find the best position for the best figuring, bearing in mind that the top will be curved along the axis which will expose some of the figuring underneath.

I firmed up on this as the optimum position:



I traced round the template placed in this position on the bubinga in felt-tip:




I chose to rough-cut the two halves separately and then glue rather than the other way round mainly because of the size restriction on my bandsaw (the cheapo Clarke one from Machine Mart). This is where my bandsaw almost met it's limitation - especially as I suspect the blade wasn't overly sharp. Bubinga is VERY tough stuff and, due to the curve I will end up with on the body, you have to start off with it at maximum 'highest point to lowest point' thickness of 47mm. It weighs much the same as a breeze block in this condition :lol: .

Well, my poor old cheapo band saw stalled, threw a blade, broke a blade, made pathetic dying noises, but eventually:




In fact, I took this photo just before replacing the broken blade - you can see at the neck join area...so close and yet so far away.... :rolleyes:

Next was a final check of the mating surfaces and then Titebond and a pair of sash clamps, which is where it will stay overnight...



I've also had some thoughts about a possible further design change - but I'll have a think about it before embarrassing myself in front of the forum ('he's going to do WHAT???!??!!')

As always, thanks for looking
Andy

Edited by Andyjr1515
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[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1431533566' post='2772333']
It's a bit Iceni Zoot shaped, I like your adaptations.

As always Andy, I love watching your work!
[/quote]

Hi, Bryan :)

I see what you mean...at least it means I'm moving away from Thumb territory :D I'd not come across Iceni Zoot's before - there are some cool basses! Pity they seem to have stolen my design...I'll have to get the lawyers onto how you break the pre-existing issue :lol:

Happily, mine will look NOTHING like that by the time I've tweaked my original design concept to death...

...in fact, if I get carried away it probably won't even look like a bass :rolleyes:

Andy

Edited by Andyjr1515
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[quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1431551871' post='2772620']
The grain already looks great once you get your carve on its going to be stunning.
[/quote]
Thanks, Joe

Kirk at www.exotichardwoodsukltd.co.uk picked me out the piece especially, trying to get as good a figuring as the Thumb tribute I did last year...I think he succeeded :)

Andy

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[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1431554101' post='2772647']
Looking good so far, you don't have many clamps on the body so you must have been pretty confident with the joint! :)
[/quote]

Yeah, never worry about clamping...take this headstock plate - almost nothing holding it on:


:lol:

Truth is that yes, the joint is pretty sound, but also, with two huge chunks of immovable wood, all you have to do is squeeze them together VERY tight - sash clamps are ideal. Where there is any flex possible, then you need plenty of clamps - and those being proper screw clamps too:

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Nothing to show for it, but I have the amazaque for the main parts of neck here and some inner splices and ebony fingerboard on the way. For the inner splice (I'll use one central one) I've ordered both mahogany and wenge - I'll see what they're like when they arrive and decide which to use. I might also put a couple of strips either side of the neck where it goes through the body - I'll see when I get that far

I've got other projects on the go, but should be able to make (slow but) steady progress at the same time (in the absence of a proper workshop, I spend as much time getting stuff out and putting it away as I do acually using it, so I can take advantage when I have got some appropriate equipment out to piggy-back and do bits on this as I go along). When I next get the router out I'll whistle round the template for the finished outline :)

Edited by Andyjr1515
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