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Finishing a natural body


MarkG3
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Hello everyone,

I am currently working on my USA pbass and have decided on keeping it as a natural finish. I have sanded the body down to the wood so now I would like to get the wood a little brighter, like if you were to get a damp cloth and wipe the wood. Do I need to use beeswax or wood stain? Or what's the best option here? Once that is done will it be ok to then spray lacquer over the top? I have done some searching on this but still didnt feel I had an answer.

Thanks!

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Hi,
The 'damp cloth' effect will appear when you apply a clear finish.

What wood is it - ash? alder?. Either way, but especially with ash,you will need to fill the grain of the wood before you apply the lacquer (that is if you want a smooth finish). The trick is finding a grain filler which looks ok with your wood, aqnd even then creating a smooth finish is no picnic!

I'd avoid wax, as it will create a layer which the lacquer won't want to stick to.

Your easiest option is oil, as Mr Torch has suggested.

Hope this helps

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Thanks both of you I think it is alder but I could well be wrong! There doesn't seem to be dips in the grain it is just smooth so I don't think it would need filling - As I have seen some guitars/basses where there are dips and ridges in the grains.

I'll look into the oils and see what I can find!

Thanks!

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I have found this?

[url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/colron-refined-danish-oil/54151"]http://www.screwfix....anish-oil/54151
[/url][url="http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber=345332"]http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber=345332[/url]

Same thing but the description on Homebase says it's tung oil

Edited by S9_S12_Bass
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I finished my first bash at one of these on the cheap as follows: a couple of coats of Colron staining wax, a couple more coats of Lord Sheraton's Beeswax, and a polish with Gibson guitar polish

The results are here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/43330-first-time-build/page"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/43330-first-time-build/page[/url]

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[quote name='S9_S12_Bass' timestamp='1332234197' post='1585056']
Hello everyone,

I am currently working on my USA pbass and have decided on keeping it as a natural finish. I have sanded the body down to the wood so now I would like to get the wood a little brighter, like if you were to get a damp cloth and wipe the wood. Do I need to use beeswax or wood stain? Or what's the best option here? Once that is done will it be ok to then spray lacquer over the top? I have done some searching on this but still didnt feel I had an answer.

Thanks!
[/quote]

A decent option that works is 'Tru Oil' aka gunstock oil and you can buy it thru Ebay.....the most common manufacturer is Birchwood Casey, about £8 for 240ml bottle.
I don't think your wood will need a 'filler.base coat'. I think Birchwood Casey website has details of applying the stuff.

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[quote name='S9_S12_Bass' timestamp='1332234197' post='1585056']
Hello everyone,

I am currently working on my USA pbass and have decided on keeping it as a natural finish. I have sanded the body down to the wood so now I would like to get the wood a little brighter, like if you were to get a damp cloth and wipe the wood. Do I need to use beeswax or wood stain? Or what's the best option here? Once that is done will it be ok to then spray lacquer over the top? I have done some searching on this but still didnt feel I had an answer.

Thanks!
[/quote]


http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Finishing.aspx

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You wouldnt need lacquer if you have enough patience to work through around 8-10 coats of oil (I prefer danish oil) and a couple coats of good quality wax.
I would finish you bass like this:

1. Sand for a ridiculously long time working through various grades. A good rule of thumb is, when you've finished with a grade, spend the same amount of time with that grade again. Manufacturers like RIM and Shuker will spend days sanding their guitars. It makes a difference!
2. After sanding, apply a coat of oil (follow instructions) and leave for 6+ hours. Sand with a very high grade (300+), dust with compressed air and then apply more oil. Repeat this stage about 8 times. More if you want a deeper finish. Remember to sand inbetween each coat.
3. Leave for a few days and then apply a coat of wax and buff straight away. Leave for another couple of days and apply another coat of wax. Buff!

Should look great by now! Here's one I did a couple of weeks ago:



And that was just after the second coat of wax.

Just remember to leave few days between each process to let everything settle down a bit.

Hope this helps!

Truckstop

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Tung oil has always worked for me (Liberon is a good brand) just a few coats, followed by a simple beeswax (no silicone contents..thats important). I also like the Warwick wax, mainly because it doesn't build quickly into a shine like a lot of furniture waxes do. Its the sanding that takes time, as I'm sure you've noticed by now!

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