zig-zag Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I've just bought some Castors for my Marshall MBC410. I can handle the weight easily, but being able to wheel it around would be a lot easier. My only problem is attaching the damn things to the cab. Is it just a case of drilling into the wood to put the scews in, or is there a better way to go about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 The screws will pull out the first time you hit a bump. Use T nuts and bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfisher Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Yep, simple screws are a waste of time. I'd use standard bolts and self-locking nuts, all fixed through a metal plate on the inside of the cab to spread the load when the cab is (inevitably) rolled into something and the castors transfer all that sideways force onto their fixings. T-nuts are probably easier to fit though, especially if access to the insides is restricted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ancient Mariner Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 T nuts are easier, but if the cab isn't terribly strong then bolts with big penny washers to spread the load will be much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.young Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Don't bolt them to the cab. Find a piece of 1" board and bolt them to that instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad3353 Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Make a 'skateboard' instead from 1" plywood. It can be used for any equipment, not just the bass cab. Don't forget to cut a handle slot in each end for carrying the board when not loaded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceilidhswinger Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 I would use Dexion or similar angle iron cut to size to fit dimensions of your amp, you can then remove as necessary eg; on stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lozz196 Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 I attached mine with self-tappers on my Marshall MBC 410. Just made a little guiding hole with a nail first, before tightening the screws. Stayed firmly attached through all the gigs/rehearsals I did, no worries. I`ve also attached castors to a few other cabs in this way, and again, have had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ancient Mariner Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 (edited) [quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1323532937' post='1464311'] I attached mine with self-tappers on my Marshall MBC 410. [/quote] That may be OK with a nice quality ply cab, but the Laney I put castors on was made of lightweight chipboard, and would have failed almost instantly. edit - spillung. Edited December 10, 2011 by Ancient Mariner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monckyman Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 My Ashdown mag410 had castors fitted when I bought it, and one of them had caused the bottom of the cab to become wheatabix. There was no load bearing plate. I fitted some of MB1s famous local castors to my Ampeg 410 with T nuts and they`ve been great, and the cab is good enough to take the strain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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