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De-relicing a bridge


Dave Vader
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[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1286650' date='Jun 29 2011, 04:59 PM']Yep, anyone know of a way to get the flipping rust off an orange bridge? Could just pay out for a new one, but quite like the look of it, apart from it being orange and seized up.[/quote]

Not sure how much it would cost, but vintage car owners get various bits and pieces rechromed...

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I used metal polish myself, the tcut stuff, luckily mine wasn't too far gone. My god does it leave a smell on your hands though, and give you a monster headache.
If it was really f***ed i'd use wet/dry sanding up to a high grade to get a mirror finish on it.

Edited by Ross
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[quote name='Monckyman' post='1288938' date='Jul 1 2011, 01:01 PM']I`m assuming you did all the wd40 and tightening the screws to break the seal type of things?
How old`s the bass anyhow?[/quote]

It's an old 70s/80s hondo P-bass I got off the bay for cheap. Mighty Plywood tone!

You can't see the heads of the screws for rust, let alone try and get into them, I suspect drilling is the only way through. The brass saddles are green, which proves they are brass at least.
I will try and get a photo of it for you to gawp at in disbelief. I've seen stuff from the Titanic in better nick.

In the meantime, here's the original auction page, you can just about make out the gunk on this.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130535015064&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_898"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...IT#ht_500wt_898[/url]

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Get a screwdriver that fits well, and give the handle a sharp tap wiv a Brummigem screwdriver before you try and turn them. Breaks any rust around the head and seats the screwdriver better.

An old trick from selling cars in the days of chrome bumpers & trim was to clean them up with whatever, jenolite was popular then, but it looks like coke works just as well, then rub over the little pits with a ball of screwed up tinfoil.

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[quote name='Johnston' post='1289166' date='Jul 1 2011, 03:35 PM']Get some of them things I think it's JML sell. They have them n our local asda

Rather than drilling they grip the rounded screw head and screw it out.

Much easier than drilling the heads off then trying to get the remains out.

Edit got a link [url="http://www.jmldirect.com/Screw-Extractor-PS5616/"]http://www.jmldirect.com/Screw-Extractor-PS5616/[/url]

Another edit. I've heard heating the screw first with a soldering Iron can loosen things up to make life easier.[/quote]

Like the soldering iron idea, sadly the bridge screws are countersunk right down level, so I don't think the extractor thingy will work.
Have done the screwdriver whacking in thing before, and not tried it here yet. Cue a long weekend of shouting at things and hitting my fingers with hammers/pinching with pliers/drilling through my thumb :)
Coke and tinfoil on the heads first methinks... (that could mean something else very easily)

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[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1289145' date='Jul 1 2011, 03:16 PM']In the meantime, here's the original auction page, you can just about make out the gunk on this.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130535015064&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_898"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...IT#ht_500wt_898[/url][/quote]


Ah so that was you that got that bad boy lol. i was going to bid on that, but purchased a solid body stripped one on here for £30 inc postage. you gonna leave the stickers on lol

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Looks like it`s lived in the garage for the last twenty years.
Jap made though and heel access truss rod means prob a maple/maple originally.
Well worth £25
Keep us posted will you? Always good to [s]laugh at someones mistakes[/s] see how to deal with certain problems like rust and fecked screws etc.

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I had a similar problem with my badass II.
I managed to just about grasp most of the screws with a set of pliers, but in the end I had to drill out the top on of the E string saddle.
Bridge screws are deceptively hard to drill through, went through a couple of quality bits and had a lot of swearing.

Edited by Ross
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Just so you can see the full extent of my problems here....

I only bought it to save me spraying the other one I've got black. Supposed to save me a bit of time and effort, how funny.
Stickers are slowly going off, along with the green spray paint all over the back that went unmentioned.... (but that's a piece of piss to get off)
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[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1291945' date='Jul 4 2011, 11:17 AM']

Just so you can see the full extent of my problems here....

I only bought it to save me spraying the other one I've got black. Supposed to save me a bit of time and effort, how funny.
Stickers are slowly going off, along with the green spray paint all over the back that went unmentioned.... (but that's a piece of piss to get off)[/quote]
Stick it in the bin. :)

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[quote name='Johnston' post='1291967' date='Jul 4 2011, 11:30 AM']For a BBOT I would just buy one instead of trying to salvage that one !!!

Your chances of getting those screws out too with a screw driver will be thin. Might be worth getting an impact screwdriver or those JML bits. Even then they might break the heads off.[/quote]

Yeah, I hadn't looked at it that closely when I started this thread.
It is now more of a "how the hell do I get this thing off?" thread.

I have another bridge lying around that I'm going to use instead. Breaking the heads is ok, as long as I have a bit long enough to grab with some pliers after.

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[quote name='Johnston' post='1291976' date='Jul 4 2011, 11:37 AM']Heads breaking off would be my worry . Inevitably they break off flush Sods law or Murphys law whatever you want to call it.

They will probably be waisted just below the taper where the bridge and they have been corroding.

Got a welder??[/quote]

Sadly not, but have a drill, a lot of woodplugs, and a big enough bridge to hide the shame :)

oh, is this the sort of thing you meant with the JML thing?

[url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-set/18643"]http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-set/18643[/url]

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Don't touch it just now. Remove the saddles etc. if you can, give it a soaking with WD-40 for a few days to loosen up the rust and hopefully any ingrown rust in the wood, give the heads a go with a wire brush, then try some heat (soldering iron) and cross your fingers. Worst comes to worst rip it out then fill the holes before refinishing.

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Righty, fun with WD-40 and coke, followed by buying another gadget, and then some fun on ebay (I think it has to be done doesn't it?).

Thanks folks, all very helpful. Wish my desire for a P-bass to match my strat hadn't come to this.... (will be worth it when they're hanging next to each other in the living room)

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[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1292037' date='Jul 4 2011, 12:13 PM']Righty, fun with WD-40 and coke[/quote]

You were in the pub on Friday? :)

I'd second the above, that belongs in the bin I'm afraid. Hope you get it off okay, so to speak.

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