EBS_freak

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' timestamp='1490287885' post='3263997'] We have just invested in an Allen & Heath QU 16 desk so very tempted now to invest in the A&H ME-1 as the solution for my IEM. Has anyone used one of these and can give any feedback/experience? [/quote] They are fabulous - used them with my GLD80 - although they are still £430 (they were more than that when they came out) and if you haven't got a requirement not to use the auxes on the desk, I'd still be tempted to do your mix via an iPad. The ME1 is a nice piece of hardware but only really comes into it's own if you want to run loads of them. I think on YouTube theres a video where each symphony orchestra member has their own mix controllable via their own ME-1. For that, it's absolutely brilliant. If you do get one, it's going to lock you into the A&H ecosystem - and you are still wired after £430 quids worth of investment. If you haven't got an iPad things may be different... but in that case, I'd be tempted to go down CeX and buy a used iPad for for circa £150. My advice, save the cash and buy an EW300 then you can use it on other desks. But if you don't, the ME1 is ace regardless. Just gone through phone - keyboard player here with the aforementioned.

Here is the link to this headphone amp at Studiospares. [url="https://www.studiospares.com/Headphones-and-Speakers/Headphone-Amps-and-Splitters/Studiospares-HA20-Headphone-Amp_449760.htm"]https://www.studiosp...-Amp_449760.htm[/url] This is a perfect companion for somebody wanting to use OBBM's IEM/instrument combo cable and wants to have a headphone amp next to their bass amplifier. Link to OBBMs magic cable is here - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/303154-obbms-rock-wire-iem-monitor-cables/"]http://basschat.co.u...monitor-cables/[/url] The combination of both is probably one of the cheapest ways to get a good, solid, usable solution - without cables trailing everywhere. Comments on this headphone amp - It's a bit nicer than the Millenium HPA... and the K&M attachment should be just the ticket to mount to a stand somewhere (e.g. for a drummer, percussionist, mic stand whatever! PS - if you have come here from the affiliates section (OBBM's cable) and interested in getting into IEMs, get reading from the start... all your questions and more will be answered.

This insurance money - isn't it to replace the neck? This claim seems fraudulent if you are you making purchases elsewhere in addition to getting the bass repaired with a new neck. And people complain about ever raising premiums.

[quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1490187785' post='3263003'] Thank you EBS Freak! Now to find someone who can solder for me.... [/quote] Just for completeness, if you have rear racks in your case, some have a rail set back which is useful for securing cables too... or even power supplies. I tend to use block type power supplies so I can ditch the wall wart types and cable tie the replacement psus to the rails. I think in one of the pics I posted earlier, you can make one out on the left. I tend to use abcproducts on eBay as they have proven to be really light and I've never had one fail on me... and you can always daisy chain your DC devices off to that supply (just watch how much current you are drawing and don't exceed the output that the psu can supply. [url="http://www.abcproducts.com/abc-products-mains-adaptor-adapter-power-supply-for-pure-dab?filter_name=12v%20adapter&filter_description=true&filter_sub_category=true"]http://www.abcproduc...b_category=true[/url] These are particularly great if you start adding DC devices to your racks - e.g. wireless, midi controllers, pedals, loopers etc.

Ah! Posted in the other thread... hopefully all you need is in there. EDIT -> link to the thread in question - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/299354-power-amp-rigs/page__view__findpost__p__3263001"]#91[/url]

The rack panel - something like - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1U-RACK-PANEL-DP28777-Punched-4-x-D-Type-holes-XLR-Neutrik-XLR-Powecon-etc-/221675330450"]http://www.ebay.co.u...c-/221675330450[/url] For the rack panel - 1 x Neutrik NAC3MPA-1 (Powercon connector - in) 1 x Neutrik NL4MP (Speakon out) 1 x Neutrik NJ3FP6C-BAG (Locking 1/4" jack socket) 1 x Neutrik NC3MD-LX B (DI Out) 4x Neutrik SCDR (Boots for covering the connectors cabling) For attaching the chassis connector units to the rack panel- [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]M3 Nylon bolts and M3 Screws (hex socket head)[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then, for audio path, DI, I would suggest van damme mic cable, for instruments van damme instrument cable.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For the speaker, just use some standard 13A mains cable - and you'll need to solder on either a speakon or jack depending what your amp uses.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For DI, solder a NC5FXX, and the other to the appropriate chassis connector.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For instrument, solder a NP2X to the cable and the other to the instrument in chassis connector.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For the power, find a donor IEC cable... cut off the plug and and crimp the cable ends to the powercon connector leaving the IEC connector intact. Plug in a 1 to 2 (or a Y) IEC cable to go between the two units. Alternatively, you can crimp to IEC cord together at the powercon connector.[/font][/color] Note - the boots need to be put on the cable before you solder the ends! Once the boots are on, tie them on tight with cable ties. Guessing you already have the rack screws and nuts to connect the rack panel? Notes - In the above examples, I have only used a boot for the power as the whole wiring is encased behind a solid row of rack panels. Also assuming you have some heatshrink to put over the solder joints and a soldering iron.. and solder! And the skills to solder! Tip - for the nyloc nuts, use long ear pliers whilst screwing in the bolts from the other side. I use a screwdriver type hex attachment instead of an allen key as it can be fiddly turning the key compared to screwdriver.

Very simple. Give me a sec. EDIT - are both units IEC in - and what would the third unit be?

[quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1490139824' post='3262657'] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]So I want to make my rack tidy, gotta love a bit of OCD. It'll be a simple power amp and preamp combo, with space for another 1u in there for future tweakery. I want a back plate with power, guitar in, DI and speaker out. Something like the pic below.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I like the idea of a single powercon socket for all items in the rack. Anyone know how to do this or someone who could make it for me even??[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [/quote] ^ The power wiring in this is horrific! Done a fair few of these now - What are you trying to rack? It's all about getting rack panels, hex bolts and nyloc nuts, lots of solder, neutrik chassis mount components... adapters, cable... I can give you some direction if you can tell me what you want?

Not bad. My purchases should land today so shall update - not that it's going to be particularly exciting!

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1490135816' post='3262609'] Ah! ha ha! No, I should have said.. Fischer stick goes on my belt. Love that thing! Especially being able to drive a stereo or mono signal down a single XLR cable locked in place. Plenty of steam for driving BIG earphones too. [/quote] I'm guessing thats unbalanced if you are doing stereo down a single XLR?

Dood - do you mount your Fischer stick on that? Or did you go with something different?

I've had similar - when EBS changed to making the pedals in China, they changed the switch to this... which is a bit naff and prone to breaking - the old one wasn't. It's an easy enough fix though - you don't need an exact like for like replacement (in fact, you should use the opportunity to upgrade the switch to a far more robust one!) - just solder on flying cables between the switch and the board.

Dood! My OCD would drive me mad if the headphone amp was on it's side!

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1489402923' post='3256552'] <SNIP> [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Noticed that the Millennium Thomann headphone amp (clearly a Chinese rebranded operation) has appeared at Studiospares in a nice natty red colour....[/font][/color] </SNIP> [/quote] As a continuation of this, I've now bought one... and one of these - so the headphone amp can be mounted for the drummer/percussionist via one of the many stands they seem to have hanging around in their general area. Anybody interested in doing anything similar, the above is a K&M KM238. PS - you will also need a 3/8" to 5/8" thread converter if you are planning to use with the above headphone amp. Hope this helps somebody - probably easier for a drummer to be able to reach for the volume knob on this thing as opposed to a wired/wireless pack on their body. Also, you probably want to but a headphone extension cable unless the drummers headphone cable is really long...

[quote name='NancyJohnson' timestamp='1489403683' post='3256559'] Cheers for the information lads. I've pinged an email over to Sims. I think the first one would be my Lull (bolt-on) and I've enquired about my Hamer/Gibsons as these are set necks. I'm OK with having a microswitch on the front of these basses and there's bound to be space inside the control cavities to accommodate a couple of PP3s. [/quote] If you don't want a switch, there's always a push/push or push/pull pot option.

Harvest stuff is amazing, especially their bags.

Also thought... if you don't rear mount, there's always the option of making the connector look a little more pretty...

Try something like this, one for power, one for (or you could fabricate something similar, in wood) Also, there should be at least two outputs on a pedal board, for those that are running stereo pedals and want a stereo out. Would make things nice and symmetrical too. May be less symmetrical if you want the DI also - but I am guessing your market is made to order? For really nice looking plates, check these... and they would look to be bolted to your pedal board from inside. How nice would that look? Of course, you'd rear mount the Neutrik connectors - [url="https://itm-components.co.uk/collections/extron/adapter-plate?page=9"]https://itm-componen...er-plate?page=9[/url] How nice would something like that look?? Depending upon how good your routing is, you may be able to get rid of the plate together... and that would look hella cool. Shouldn't be difficult to rear route into the wood to leave it thin enough to mount the sockets directly.

RE IEC... I actually like powercons, don't go loose over time either. Also, once the button is pressed on the locking socket, the jack should be easily removable so something doesn't sound right there. With regards to mounting Neutrik chassis mount connectors... have you thought about making up a plate and rear mounting them to the plate and then sinking that plate into the side of the board? The fixtures looks a lot nicer rear mounted - and hex bolts (with nyloc nuts behind) make the thing look a lot more pro. That reminds me, I would have all your hardware and bolts matching - e.g. all black. I've done it to the powercons and speakons in this example -

Google clean boost pedal.

[quote name='bazztard' timestamp='1489554492' post='3257841'] for my pedals I use this Joyo rechargeable battery, 2000mA, lasts for hours [url="https://www.cheaperpedals.com/products/joyo-jmp-02-portable-power-supply"]https://www.cheaperp...le-power-supply[/url] [/quote] Or... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1X-8-AA-Cells-Battery-12V-Clip-Holder-Enclosed-Box-Case-With-On-Off-Switch-Leads-/381670101922 with 2 packs of these https://www.batterystation.co.uk/rechargeable-batteries/sanyo-eneloop-xx-rechargeable-aa-batteries-2500-mah Under £30, same deal. (Of course, you'll need to own a battery charger already - and make sure that the polarity is right for your pedals) - and you get an extra 50mAh. (so should power your pedal for 25% longer than the Joyo).

Rechargeable Eneloop for AAs - last for ages and don't discharge when not in use. Saved me loads of money on wireless packs and mics!