stevie

Can't believe I misspelled desperate. Maybe I was a bit disappointed after all :-) - especially as it was a local seller.

[quote name='kevbass' post='264814' date='Aug 18 2008, 06:37 PM']Ok ok so its not a real stingray but it is an olp copy with a musicman sterling pup already installed, scooped it for 90 quid, sterling sound, stingray looks, a 10th of the price...nice! will give a review and more pics when I get it (hopefully by friday) out of interest was I bidding against anyone here? I think I got it at such a good price because the seller didnt say in the title it had a sterling pup fitted, only when you read the item description did it say, so Im thinking a lot of people skipped past it thinking it was just a standard olp ray?[/quote] You were bidding against me. You just outbid me. I thought it was a bargain, but as I don't believe in owning multiple basses, I wasn't desparate to own it. Well done anyway.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='263072' date='Aug 15 2008, 01:58 PM']Fortunately for world sanity and the order of the universe, the Australian one didn't sell. There's a nice (looking) Burns Artist on t'bay now for a comparitively reasonable £795. Jump on it now while they're so cheap here. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-Burns-Artist-Bass-Electric-Guitar-1960-1962_W0QQitemZ300250405554QQihZ020QQcategoryZ4713QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]Link[/url][/quote] Dearie me .... it looks like it was made in somebody's kitchen.

[quote name='lineboss58' post='261044' date='Aug 12 2008, 05:38 PM']I have seen a burns 62 vistasonic bass for sale the owner wants £1500 for it, have people lost the plot or what. Even if the guitar worked and was pristine you wouldnt get that for it, why do lots of the music population think that because something is old it must be worth a fortune? I have two of these instruments a 62 and a 63 and wouldnt expect to get anymore than £500 each for them, i just laugh when i see this kind of thing. [/quote] Somebody was selling a 60s guitar case for £500 on eBay recently. The world's gone mad. Before I was able to afford a secondhand Strat, I had a Burns 6-string (Artist?), and it was nothing special. I think even the cheapest Chinese copy would be better nowadays.

[quote name='timo' post='260603' date='Aug 12 2008, 09:11 AM']OK thanks, I might just chuck the cab and keep the speakers until I need them and then do a DIY effort[/quote] Probably not a bad idea. Nobody seems to be keen on single 2x15 cabs nowadays. The top of the line McKenzies were called the Studio series. If you've got those, you're in luck. Remember to keep all the cabinet hardware (like the metal corners, feet and so on), as it adds up to quite a lot if you have to buy it all new.

[quote name='squire5' post='259628' date='Aug 10 2008, 11:14 PM']What is the main reason for a guitar lead to suddenly go microphonic?It's been fine for months and now,every move I make comes through lead and clear through my amp.Earthing problem possibly?[/quote] I'm not an expert, but microphonics are normally caused by movement of the conductors, which are generally held tightly in place by the plastic around them. If it's happened suddenly, I'd guess at the cable having been stretched. If you want to avoid buying a new one, cut a foot of cable off the end that's microphonic and resolder the plug.

Scott was a PA cab builder based, I think, in Yorkshire in the 1980s. They used McKenzie drivers, which have also disappeared now, but were quite good. Their stuff was mid-market quality. Watch out for mis-tuned cabinets - many bass cabinets were mis-tuned in those days and can be improved by doing it properly. I don't think they are worth much nowadays.

You shouldn't need any extra equipment to do this. Just plug your bass into the aux input of your sound card - then use the sound card's mixer to balance the levels. All you will need is an adapter to reduce the standard jack from your bass to the minijack on your sound card. An adapter cable is preferable to a solid adapter, as the weight of the latter will eventually ruin the input socket. Use your computer's CD player and headphone socket as normal. The sound of your bass will be a bit twangy unless you have an active bass that allows you to cut the mids. Still, it's the simplest way of doing it.

Sent me a really nice replacement bridge for my Yammy - free of charge. Top bloke! (It's on now, by the way).

[quote name='Machines' post='246052' date='Jul 23 2008, 01:21 PM']Chill out man ! Winding people up is what some people choose to do, and you reacting to it is taking the bait.[/quote] I can say, hand on heart, that I never had any intention of winding Alex up.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='246015' date='Jul 23 2008, 12:38 PM']A 15" wet halibut has an excellent off-axis slapping response, but once you go further than 45 degrees the impact tends to lessen to a kind of scaley stroke.[/quote] I’m an old school slapper myself, but I know many modern slappers who find the scaley stroke quite unacceptable. If the 45-degree off-axis slapping response of your 15-inch halibut is a problem, might I suggest using four 10-inch halibuts instead? I would, however, strongly advise against using a 15-inch halibut at the same time as four smaller ones, because the results can be unpredictable.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='246001' date='Jul 23 2008, 12:18 PM']Sorry, your brand of highly intelligent ironic humour is lost on me![/quote] I much prefer a pie in the face myself, too. At least you know where you are.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='245976' date='Jul 23 2008, 11:58 AM']Lol, no I want the last word!!![/quote] And you shall have it, sir. :-)

[quote name='Machines' post='245907' date='Jul 23 2008, 10:51 AM']Gentlemen. You both appear to have lost the plot and seem to be using this thread as a method to score points from each other. I suggest if you wish your debate this further, that you take it to PM, as you have veered off-topic at the expense of answering the original posters question.[/quote] I couldn't agree more.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='245886' date='Jul 23 2008, 10:22 AM']Guys. While my SA450 and 1212L are fine for most gigs i have a few bigger ones coming up that i know will force me to push the master higher than i would like to on my SA450. I find that after about 1 o'clock i dont get much more volume, just more compression/limiting so i might get a cheap power amp. Any ideas what's worth getting based on the fact that i dont want to spend a load (obvious), don't really need more than 1000watts max, in to 4 ohms and light would be good but i know im asking a lot as the digital ones seem very expensive. I know there are the Bheringer amps and while im not against getting one i want to see what else is around. While i know i wont need even close to 1000watts its the head room im after. comments?[/quote] The Behringer amps have a surprisingly decent reputation in the pro world. Visit this site: [url="http://www.speakerplans.com/forum/default.asp"]http://www.speakerplans.com/forum/default.asp[/url] and check out the Amp Forum. There are lots of pros on there who really know their onions and I'm sure you'll pick up some useful info.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='244865' date='Jul 21 2008, 10:03 PM']Off-axis response as a function of cone diameter assumes that the cone operates as a single pistonic radiator. In the case of extended range musical instrument and pro-sound drivers the dome acts as an independant midrange radiator, and the response both on and off-axis is not a function of cone diameter alone.[/quote] I’ve got to hand it to you, Bill. Anyone else caught with their pants down using two completely contradictory arguments to prove the same point would have the good grace to hold their hands up and say, “OK, what I really meant was....”. Not you! You cannot resist disappearing up a blind alley and trying to blind us with science – single pistonic radiator indeed. Lol! You’ll be telling me the Eminence has a whizzer cone next! Hang on, that *is* what you are saying! I read a doctoral thesis on drive unit simulation some time back (I’m sure I could find a reference) where the candidate tested drive units to see if they followed the expected theory for off-axis rollof. They did, except that there was sometimes a small amount of extra off-axis output as a result of cone breakup. As neither of the Eminences have particularly well behaved cones (to put it mildly), we might expect a little bit of that. However, I notice Eminence doesn’t publish any off-axis frequency response curves. So, the onus is on you to prove the point really, if you can. Eminence certainly doesn’t claim any magic whizzer properties for their Kappalite cones. I have here a series of tests on 12” drivers, 14 in all, carried out with MLSSA using different makes and types of driver, mostly PA, but some hi-fi. With only one exception, they drop 6dB thirty degrees off axis between 1 and 2kHz. As you would expect. But enough of that. If you are reduced to claiming that one 15” driver is better than another on the basis of its 45 degree off-axis response above 1kHz, you have already lost the argument - because it really doesn’t matter.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='245824' date='Jul 23 2008, 04:04 AM']Check the publication date on that obsolete link. As opposed to this one: [url="http://www2.jblpro.com/catalog/general/ProductFamily.aspx?FId=10&MID=3"]http://www2.jblpro.com/catalog/general/Pro...Id=10&MID=3[/url][/quote] I already conceded the point that the SRX series uses neos. That hardly backs up your claim that JBL does not use the 2226H in its current prosound offerings though, does it? [quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='245824' date='Jul 23 2008, 04:04 AM']Also consider getting a life. [/quote] I’m not the nitpicker here, if you haven’t noticed. I didn’t start this sub-thread - you did. And you are the one keeping it going, even though you were proved wrong some time ago and you have absolutely nothing useful to say. You are also the one introducing yawn-inducing irrelevancies to the discussion, such as the 45 degree off-axis response of 15-inch speakers, and navel-gazing observations like how the dome on a PA speaker acts as an independent radiator. You have an interesting way of dealing with being wrong. You introduce irrelevances and then resort to insults.

[quote name='jhk' post='245625' date='Jul 22 2008, 07:33 PM']I`ve tried your suggestion and hey presto,at least I know the horn works. So the problem is within the circuit board or components.I`ve run the tester over the components and the one marked T.I 15 OhF 5% MEA 200VDC is not letting any signal or circuit go through! is that the crossover? can i get diagrams or specific components from peavey?[/quote] Would that be 15 uF? Sound like a film cap. Can you measure capacitance with your meter? To confirm that it's not working, bypass it with some wire - keep the volume low, obviously. It would be very unusual for a 200V filmcap to go in an HF circuit. It's a bit difficult to troubleshoot blind at this distance but I'll try to help (although I'm only here now and then). If the crossover uses an L-pad (like a volume control), chances are that's what's gone.