RichardH

I went the other way. I use a [url=https://uk.focusrite.com/usb-audio-interfaces/scarlett-2i2]Scarlett 2i2[/url] plugged into a USB port as my bass interface to the PC. This then goes to an [url=https://www.amptastic.com/]Amptastic Mini 1[/url] and a pair of Q Acoustics 2020i. So not high power by any means, but I use it mostly for PC audio/music listening while working, but I also am able to plug the bass in to the 2i2 and practice at my desk. So maybe a 2i2 or similar plus a beefier amp and speaker setup might work for you? Loads of cheap old stereo amps around - in fact a stereo PA power amp would work a treat.

The crossover build commences! I worked out a layout on paper first (following the layout in the PDF attached to the top of this thread - the only laying out was really seeing how large the components are and arranging them), then made a couple of cardboard templates the right size as decided by my paper scribblings. I then transferred the hole positions to the plywood - I'm using 4mm as it is what I happened to have around - see later for cunning plans and clever tricks though. Holes drilled - make sure you use some scrap wood underneath to keep breakthrough to a minimum. I then de-burred the holes with a countersink bit (just by hand, not with the drill), and some sandpaper. Populating the LF crossover just to see how it all goes together - no silicone or tiewraps yet! ...and so to the cunning plans. Being jealous of all the bass builds where everyone gets to clamp things, I thought I needed an excuse to do the same - so... nurse? THE CLAMPS!!! I have cut some strips of the same ply and have run them along the edge of each board. This serves two purposes - first it will give more "meat" to where the mounting screws pass through, and also will act as a standoff. I have also added a little pad under where the connector strip sits so the screws that hold that in position have more to bite into. This may or may not be a good idea, so watch this space!

Their ears were obviously burning - just had an email to say the order has been despatched!

They did warn that there was a lead time on the inductors as they don't hold stock. Should be here soon though....

You beat me to it - still waiting for the components to arrive for the standard xover!

Out of interest, which acrylic coating are you using Phil? When I have made cabs in the past I have used Tuffcoat, but I didn't really find it that hard wearing - though easy to touch up.

I certainly thought "Trace" when glancing at the thumbnail - though don't have any solid info to back that thought up.

Looks fabulous!

Good work!

I picked up an RCF ART310A for £300 brand new on eBay the other month. There is one [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RCF-Art-310A-MKIII-Active-Speaker-/182627919835?hash=item2a8578e7db:g:PJkAAOSwMvtZOxrn"]"as new" with soft case on there at the moment[/url]. Excellent monitors - though not the cheapest, of course.

[quote name='Pea Turgh' timestamp='1497792596' post='3320569'] I think I'll just go ahead and make the cab that has been tried and tested! I can keep the mahogany beast in the house to run my Pianet through. [/quote] Much the better idea.

So do you mean the full depth of the cab is 25cm, but the panel that forms the side slot is 24cm (leaving a 1cm gap for the air to pass through from the main body of the cab out through the slot)? If that is the case then I don't think the Beyma will work very well - from a rough and ready plot in WinISD the bass will roll off a lot sooner than the BC112, and there will be quite a big "hump" at 100Hz.

I'm no expert, but at 36l, that cab sounds like it might be a touch small for the Beyma - it will depend a lot on the porting arrangement on the Peterson. If you can measure the port (width, height and depth) then that will give more info.

Love the way the dark neck stringer laminate shows through on the bottom of the headstock.

No, that is what I had assumed - all the wiring would run under the board, but I was a little hesitant to run wired through ply and have the resistors hard up against the ply surface - though I guess they aren't going to get that hot, so it's not really a problem.

That sounds a good way to do - I had been thinking of using the phenolic sheet. The eyelets idea is genius - that way you can pass leads though the board rather than keep it all on the surface. I guess a punch tool might be needed too, though I wouldn't be suprised if that can be got around without too much trouble. If I go that way then I wouldn't mind knocking up a few blank boards for anyone else who wants to build a crossover.

Yes, I think that's the way to go. You can buy blank PCB board fibreglass - or phenolic board - on eBay, but equally you can also buy small bits of ply as well. Actually, I've just remembered, I have a huge chunk of thin ply left over from dome house DIY. Geoff is up for having a crossover built, so I will buy the bits and document the process for anyone else feeling nervous about doing it.

Just priced up the components via [url="https://www.hificollective.co.uk/"]HiFiCollective[/url] They don't keep the inductors in stock, but their prices are reasonable. They even do the [url="https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/tag-board-p-695.html"]tag board[/url]. So including shipping, the parts come to £21.15. Then all you will need is some 6mm ply or similar to mount the circuit on. Am wondering about just getting some bare paxolin board and mounting the crossover on that, then just adding terminals for the connectors. I was thinking of doing it all with turret connectors, but you usually have to buy them in bulk, so not good for people to follow suit. What does the panel think? I would like to do it in the easiest way for others to follow, so best to keep the tool count down as much as we can.

Cheers Stevie - maybe it was in the mk1 thread I read comments about a lower tuning.... or maybe I dreamt the whole thing

...sorry to whiffle on. Re-reading the thread, when discussing the port: [quote name='stevie' timestamp='1486548855' post='3232603'] They're called flared ports, MoonBass. I have a selection of them here, including some very nice Precision Ports 4" ones. Unfortunately, availability is a bit of a problem in the UK, but they do work really well. I considered using the Precisions, but their external diameter is about 18cm and there wasn't enough room on the baffle. Also, a single flared 4" port wasn't going to be long enough to tune the cab to the target frequency. The performance of the 5" we are using is equivalent to a flared 4" port. The ideal would be a 5" flared port on the back of the cab, but nobody makes one. [/quote] ...at the time of this decision, am I correct in thinking that the cab tuning was expected to be 40Hz, but in the end you went with closer to 50Hz? Does this mean that actually one of the 4" flared ports WOULD be long enough to get the desired tuning (by my calcs it would need to be just under 4")? Though I guess you would still have the issue of baffle space.

I was just wondering the same thing - 0.17 to 0.18 is only around 5% anyway...

Right, before I can do anything re a crossover, we will need to find a source for the correct values of inductor. The only 0.17mH inductor I have found is a beast with 1.2mm diameter wire. Also, the PDF doesn't specify if it's an air wound coil - I assume so. Without being able to accurately measure the effect of removing wire from a 0.18mH inductor, I think we will need to get two to make up the value - a 0.8 and a 0.9. The only place I am finding a decent selection of parts is Europe Audio (now branded as Loudspeakerfreaks) - or hificollective, though they don't keep stock. If there is interest, I might be up for buying in components for (say) 3 crossovers worth of parts.... but I don't want to end up carrying heaps of stuff that nobody is interested in. Alternatively, if there is somewhere in the UK (as I said above, Blue Aran don't list anything like the required values on their site) that can be used to supply the parts, then it would be helpful to potential builders if someone could provide links and part numbers. EDIT - actually, [url="http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/audio-inductors-ferrite-air-core-iron-dust/ac071-high-power-air-core-up-to-0-20mh-audio-inductor.html"]Falcon Acoustics[/url] might be the way to go for inductors - but they only offer up to 0.5mH.

The PDFs on the first post do give this info - the assumption is 15mm ply, and they include a cutlist. The diagrams are pretty clear as to how the pieces go together, though I am sure a step by step guide would be of help to less experienced builders.

Unfortunately Blue Aran don't list 0.6mH or 0.17mH air core inductors on their site. Closest is a [url=http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON124860&browsemode=category]0.56mH[/url] and a [url=http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON124800&browsemode=category].18mH[/url]. Europe Audio (now branded as Loudspeakerfreaks) do them - [url=https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=9630]0.6mH[/url] - though the only 0.17mH is a [url=https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Product.asp?mfr=Jantzen%20Audio&part=000-1049&Product_ID=9777]chunky 1.2mm wire version[/url] - a lot more choice at [url=https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Product.asp?mfr=Jantzen%20Audio&part=000-1421&Product_ID=9293]0.18mH[/url]. I don't know enough to know if that is close enough - I guess you could buy a .18 and remove some of the coil to get down to .17, but not sure how much wire that would be. Actually we could do the same with Blue Aran stuff - buy a size higher and remove, so long as we know how much to take off. Europe Audio are based in The Netherlands - I'd had stuff from them before and they are good with shipping etc, but it's hardly worth buying one crossover's worth of bits from them - though it might be as cheap in the end as buying from Blue Aran as their prices are higher for the coils anyway.