RichardH

I certainly thought "Trace" when glancing at the thumbnail - though don't have any solid info to back that thought up.

Looks fabulous!

Good work!

I picked up an RCF ART310A for £300 brand new on eBay the other month. There is one [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RCF-Art-310A-MKIII-Active-Speaker-/182627919835?hash=item2a8578e7db:g:PJkAAOSwMvtZOxrn"]"as new" with soft case on there at the moment[/url]. Excellent monitors - though not the cheapest, of course.

[quote name='Pea Turgh' timestamp='1497792596' post='3320569'] I think I'll just go ahead and make the cab that has been tried and tested! I can keep the mahogany beast in the house to run my Pianet through. [/quote] Much the better idea.

So do you mean the full depth of the cab is 25cm, but the panel that forms the side slot is 24cm (leaving a 1cm gap for the air to pass through from the main body of the cab out through the slot)? If that is the case then I don't think the Beyma will work very well - from a rough and ready plot in WinISD the bass will roll off a lot sooner than the BC112, and there will be quite a big "hump" at 100Hz.

I'm no expert, but at 36l, that cab sounds like it might be a touch small for the Beyma - it will depend a lot on the porting arrangement on the Peterson. If you can measure the port (width, height and depth) then that will give more info.

Love the way the dark neck stringer laminate shows through on the bottom of the headstock.

No, that is what I had assumed - all the wiring would run under the board, but I was a little hesitant to run wired through ply and have the resistors hard up against the ply surface - though I guess they aren't going to get that hot, so it's not really a problem.

That sounds a good way to do - I had been thinking of using the phenolic sheet. The eyelets idea is genius - that way you can pass leads though the board rather than keep it all on the surface. I guess a punch tool might be needed too, though I wouldn't be suprised if that can be got around without too much trouble. If I go that way then I wouldn't mind knocking up a few blank boards for anyone else who wants to build a crossover.

Yes, I think that's the way to go. You can buy blank PCB board fibreglass - or phenolic board - on eBay, but equally you can also buy small bits of ply as well. Actually, I've just remembered, I have a huge chunk of thin ply left over from dome house DIY. Geoff is up for having a crossover built, so I will buy the bits and document the process for anyone else feeling nervous about doing it.

Just priced up the components via [url="https://www.hificollective.co.uk/"]HiFiCollective[/url] They don't keep the inductors in stock, but their prices are reasonable. They even do the [url="https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/tag-board-p-695.html"]tag board[/url]. So including shipping, the parts come to £21.15. Then all you will need is some 6mm ply or similar to mount the circuit on. Am wondering about just getting some bare paxolin board and mounting the crossover on that, then just adding terminals for the connectors. I was thinking of doing it all with turret connectors, but you usually have to buy them in bulk, so not good for people to follow suit. What does the panel think? I would like to do it in the easiest way for others to follow, so best to keep the tool count down as much as we can.

Cheers Stevie - maybe it was in the mk1 thread I read comments about a lower tuning.... or maybe I dreamt the whole thing

...sorry to whiffle on. Re-reading the thread, when discussing the port: [quote name='stevie' timestamp='1486548855' post='3232603'] They're called flared ports, MoonBass. I have a selection of them here, including some very nice Precision Ports 4" ones. Unfortunately, availability is a bit of a problem in the UK, but they do work really well. I considered using the Precisions, but their external diameter is about 18cm and there wasn't enough room on the baffle. Also, a single flared 4" port wasn't going to be long enough to tune the cab to the target frequency. The performance of the 5" we are using is equivalent to a flared 4" port. The ideal would be a 5" flared port on the back of the cab, but nobody makes one. [/quote] ...at the time of this decision, am I correct in thinking that the cab tuning was expected to be 40Hz, but in the end you went with closer to 50Hz? Does this mean that actually one of the 4" flared ports WOULD be long enough to get the desired tuning (by my calcs it would need to be just under 4")? Though I guess you would still have the issue of baffle space.

I was just wondering the same thing - 0.17 to 0.18 is only around 5% anyway...

Right, before I can do anything re a crossover, we will need to find a source for the correct values of inductor. The only 0.17mH inductor I have found is a beast with 1.2mm diameter wire. Also, the PDF doesn't specify if it's an air wound coil - I assume so. Without being able to accurately measure the effect of removing wire from a 0.18mH inductor, I think we will need to get two to make up the value - a 0.8 and a 0.9. The only place I am finding a decent selection of parts is Europe Audio (now branded as Loudspeakerfreaks) - or hificollective, though they don't keep stock. If there is interest, I might be up for buying in components for (say) 3 crossovers worth of parts.... but I don't want to end up carrying heaps of stuff that nobody is interested in. Alternatively, if there is somewhere in the UK (as I said above, Blue Aran don't list anything like the required values on their site) that can be used to supply the parts, then it would be helpful to potential builders if someone could provide links and part numbers. EDIT - actually, [url="http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/audio-inductors-ferrite-air-core-iron-dust/ac071-high-power-air-core-up-to-0-20mh-audio-inductor.html"]Falcon Acoustics[/url] might be the way to go for inductors - but they only offer up to 0.5mH.

The PDFs on the first post do give this info - the assumption is 15mm ply, and they include a cutlist. The diagrams are pretty clear as to how the pieces go together, though I am sure a step by step guide would be of help to less experienced builders.

Unfortunately Blue Aran don't list 0.6mH or 0.17mH air core inductors on their site. Closest is a [url=http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON124860&browsemode=category]0.56mH[/url] and a [url=http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON124800&browsemode=category].18mH[/url]. Europe Audio (now branded as Loudspeakerfreaks) do them - [url=https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=9630]0.6mH[/url] - though the only 0.17mH is a [url=https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Product.asp?mfr=Jantzen%20Audio&part=000-1049&Product_ID=9777]chunky 1.2mm wire version[/url] - a lot more choice at [url=https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Product.asp?mfr=Jantzen%20Audio&part=000-1421&Product_ID=9293]0.18mH[/url]. I don't know enough to know if that is close enough - I guess you could buy a .18 and remove some of the coil to get down to .17, but not sure how much wire that would be. Actually we could do the same with Blue Aran stuff - buy a size higher and remove, so long as we know how much to take off. Europe Audio are based in The Netherlands - I'd had stuff from them before and they are good with shipping etc, but it's hardly worth buying one crossover's worth of bits from them - though it might be as cheap in the end as buying from Blue Aran as their prices are higher for the coils anyway.

...which looks to be the same as per the PDF on P1 - coolio. Seems like a good idea to try and get the definitive version of everything in one place at the start of the thread.

Ahh - so the circuit on P6 is the one for the compression driver - I see. Maybe edit the first post and add the image inline if you can't do an extra PDF - or maybe just edit the crossover PDF to have all crossover stuff in it, labelled to specify which drivers it is for. Didn't think of looking at Blue Aran for components - since they do complete crossovers I assumed they wouldn't bother! Will check it out. I have access to some turrets and board, so may be able to knock up something on that. Geoff - I will have a poke around at the weekend and see what the component cost comes out at, and then we can take it from there.

Yes, I have seen the diagrams - there's a better laid out one on the first page as one of the PDFs for download - in fact if you look at that you might feel more confident in building it, as it's properly laid out. I was just wondering if the gurus of this thread had a component list from a particular supplier put together (rather than me stumbling round RS/CPC/eBay/other audio component suppliers, as that would be helpful for anyone wanting to assemble the crossover. EDIT - apologies, I was thinking back to the rough drawings. The ones on page 6 are different from the PDFs that are in the first post - can we get clarity on which are the most up to date versions please? The ones on P6 have additionals coils compared with the PDFs.

Geoff, I could probably help you with the crossover - either build it for you or just offer assistance. Anyone put a parts list together with suppliers for the xover bits? Richard

...but remember that Barefaced cabs will have carefully designed bracing to ensure the stiffness of the panels - plain 9mm cabinet walls with no bracing would flap around like anything.

Hmmm - looks really nice.

Thanks chaps!