sandy_r

..No - but here's yer starter for 10, @Rich the existing board is approx same height as the Stompbox example - and very approx 2x width (allowing for usual side connecting space), so... Rotate the JLo PCB 180 degs (Input Ctrl now on right, Out Ctrl on left) Remove 2x Jack and rotate each above PCB to point out sideways (swapping sides, if preferred, to keep I/p on RHS?) Locate a replacement Power In DC socket above PCB back edge Remove Gimmick VU meter Relocate Stomp switch above gap in lower mid Get new case fabricated from thick Alu, drop-level towards rear now for controls ...I seeeeee, Baldrick - but is it more cunning than ... etc, etc

Colour stripe control knobs

...

...also available on eB*y, packs of 3 (same colour), 2 Squid; pack of all 7 colours 3 Squid, P&P 1.75 (good deal if you intend to lose some more 😉) (Search: "Soft Touch Knobs for Panel Mount Pots, Various Colours, Great for PIC & Arduino" èbày uk)

Oh yeah - seen this before - a very eco-conscious solution ...you get a really hot press and squash old bowling balls into weird shapes - also available in dirty orange, black, and sparkly purple

+1 on all that - so pleased to hear that Danny Thompson and John Martyn's style of work is not lost ...love the guitar repurposed as a Cajon!

hi, if the amp is oldish then it could be that any anti-pop components fitted have aged, or as mentioned above, a DC blocking cap at the output has become leaky, and affected parts might now need replacing If this is not the case, and there are any concerns about switching on the amp minus the speaker, then another approach could be to make up a small external load box, containing a resistor of say 100-200 ohms and 5-10 watts rating. Have this plug in to the amp output socket before switch on, and have an extra socket on this box to then plug in the speaker after switch on, disconnecting the fixed load resistor ...just an idea...

Gratuitous Thermal Body Modification? ..sounds painfully familiar! If this latest Gizmo doesn't sort it, and you're up for some further tinkering, you'd probably be ok to reduce those 5M to say 1M. I'd start at the Return side first and if better results seen there, try removing the resistor on the Send side ...as always, just an idea...

Hmmm - not entirely sure this is going to help much in the 'De-clicking' dept. 😞 Advertised as a 'soft switch' solution, but that appears to mean 'uses a light-touch' momentary switch, rather than 'prevents switching noise/pops etc.' Essentially, its just replacing a mahoosive mechanical footswitch with a (mechanical-switch) relay - i can't see any serious dedicated circuitry which conditions the signal o/p at switchover. ....just my €0.02, from an old duffer of no consequence... (an 'expert' will be along soon) +1 on wtf?!? PIC overkill

Or you can 'tack' solder each strip to an adjoining one, once (glued) in place, with a single small dab of solder which 'bridges' the surface of both

...can also source thin copper (or alu) foil from Craft outlets like Hobbycraft & Etsy, etc - comes as a rolled up sheet

+1 on that - i downloaded the eleven rack firmware upgrade pack just in case they also made the patches visible in a text file for reference purposes, but the Zip file just contains a release-info PDF and an .Exe install app ...think the Avid user forum route is the way to go now - good luck!

Another possible contact path for your friend might be the vintage radio/audio interest groups - old tech geezers (like me!) with a loft full of 'bits' are always moving on to Valve Valhalla! The forum moderators are regularly invited to oversee a fair financial arrangement for onward use of valves in restored equipment. There's an informal network of individual restorers, too, who might be interested in buying a job lot, so word will spread there UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum is one of the larger groups HTH

Without discounting Matt's comment about possible insert, if it is supposed to be a woodscrew, i'd avoid using a ready-made dowel, since they are often a harder wood like Ramin and might split when tightening a new screw into it- better to use a softish wood (eg. pine) and cut (or chisel) a strip along the grain, to the approx depth of hole, filing/sharpening new 'plug' to be a tight fit into old screwhole. Choose pilot hole diam. to suit new screw core diam. But check first for indication of insert arrangement, as per Matt's post

[not needed on journey]

+1 for starting with regular wind version(s) (which can then provide a performance 'reference' for variants, eg scatter-wound) AFAIA scatter wind is a method which reduces the self-capacitance of a coil - the magnetic properties are likely to be largely unaffected (apart from reducing the no. turns which will fit in the same enclosing volume, and hence the signal output level - so compensate with extra turns, but bulkier coil?) The possible benefit of using an alternative wind pattern, such as scatter or basket-weave etc, would be to reduce top-end signal loss due to the self-capacitance. Each layer of the whole coil would need to be wound using this new scheme, to make significant difference in the capacitance - only experimentation will tell if the change in capacitance is worth a bulkier coil Another experiment to try, which might make a difference to the coil windings from an electrical field PoV, is to wind each layer in the same forward direction (ie not just recirocating windings), leaving a gap between turns then returning to 'start' end in one stretched turn and offsetting the next layer to align with the gaps between turns in the previous layer ...just my €0.02

No chance of borrowing back your DB from the school for a night/weekend?

That would be a similar config to a regular 2 channel i/p amp, with pre-EQ FX loops (how would that sit with the BB scheme?) - it would only require 1 extra Jack to try and mount in the case Circuit tracing would need to be done from the existing i/p forwards now, and maybe not such a convenient circuit position to cut in (from a buffering PoV) - but the footswitch might hold the key! Basically you'd be converting a 1-i/p-switched-between-2-EQ-paths into an always-on-1-i/p-thro-2EQ-paths The remaining comments previously about the hardware modding still apply ...can't help feeling that you're trying to convert pedal X into pedal 'Why?' 😉 You'll devalue the Bass Butler and maybe not achieve as good an end-result as buying a bit of kit designed for the job 😒

...maybe some overlap with this thread? Help with pedalboard extension

Cool - this isn't just any trouser-flapping bass ...it's Lederhosen-flapping bass

I think you've just invented the need for The Tuner Shim! 😉

I've bought different pieces of kit from both Tenma and Ruzizao, both have been of decent quality and continue to perform as required, the cheaper budget brands seem to come & go very quickly, so few 'brand' names seem to stick I see that CPC have Tenma in their range, so there's some weight behind that route - there's a 30V 5A Tenma for £70+ (free post over £40, i think). I've bought a lot of electronics parts from CPC and they're very thorough, providing good quality parts HTH

Dayyum indeed! Why not make a (ply?) Template of the 2 nearest hole/gap, and keep it handy when potential replacements might come into view? ...just a random idea...

Whatever music (or Match) which the pub were playing until 5 mins (or so) after we started

I ordered equipment for work from sources like RS Online & Farnell (CPC for non-industrial) - they're not cheap but could give you an idea of some better quality makes I bought a cheaper option, variable supply, unit from Amazon a couple of years back: 0-30V 0-5A; V/A/W display (uncalibrated but ok); Const V/C control; Earth strap; couple of USB power sockets. It was just over half the price of the industry suppliers but reasonable quality and it does the job - a 10A version, otherwise similar, was about £20+ more. They do a selection of formats: Portrait/Landscape, etc HTH