rwillett

No mounting holes? Sides, back, top?

Looked at that as well and that was my second plan until I turned the Gnome over and noticed the mounting holes, then I changed tack. The first plan was a cage that the Gnome slotted into. The rubber feet are quite nice TBH, I didn't want plastic feet as they slip, printing in TPU (flexible plastic) is a PITA, so I decided to keep the rubber feet. They are 5mm thick, so that's enough for the dovetail section to be 4.6mm high. This means that I can leave the dovetails on and I still have the Gnome as before with no slippy feet. The dovetail sections don't need to be too strong, we're not supporting a nice old and heavy tube head, so a few M3 screws or bolts is fine. Also the dovetail outer sections are only 8.5mm high on the back of the cabinet (or they will be once the sodding rain stops) so are unlikely to be damaged as they are quite robust. Really good ideas @Phil Starr you ought to get a printer Rob

Rosie, Flip the Elf over and see if there are mounting screw holes on the bottom. The manual may say something about it, another clue is if TC offers a mounting bracket for the Elf. I have a Cioks DC-7 power supply and they offered a mounting bracket so I looked at using those holes. (Didn't work out, but that’s a different story). The holes don't have to be on the bottom, they could be on the sides or the back. They don't need to be very deep or big, M3 is plenty big enough (3mm) and 1-2mm of thread is fine. Rob

I can't even logon at the moment....

If your amp has some method of screwing the dovetail into it, then its just a case of fiddling with the numbers to work out how to make it all fit. The design is easy to scale in each dimension. It also requires the base of it to be attached in a fairly rigid way to the cabinet. As I'm making the Basschat 8" cabs, I don't mind putting six screws in (which is two screws too many really) into the back of the cabinet. The other method would be to attach a little sledge like below, the front would go over the top of the cab, the amp would sit in the middle and the back would stop it slipping off. Immediate issues would be if you cab has a top handle, does the cab have a nice front edge you can use, would the back lip interfere with cables?

I made a little tilted stand for a speaker to sit on, rubber feat, 4020 extrusion and I printed the sides up. Not sure I'd put an Ampeg 8x10 on it, but for small speakers and cabs, dead easy.

So as its rained pretty much non-stop since 30 secs after I brought a load of wood for the cabinets, I thought I'd think about something I can do indoors. I want to make the 8" cab easy to use with my Warwick Gnome. My original intention was to print a cage on the back of the cabinet that the Gnome would slide into. Then I looked on the bottom of the Gnome and there are four M3 holes in the base. They are quite deep, but I didn't want to open the unit up to check, I needed a few mm maximum. So instead of building a large (and easily broken) and cumbersome cage, I made two sliding angular rods. I'm sure there's a proper name for this type of connection but I have no idea. The inside rod connects to the base of the Gnome, the thinner side is the base and the larger is away from the base. The outside section connects to the back of the speaker. This is dead easy to print, about 20 mins for two of them and works very well. There are three screw holes in the larger that will fix the two rails to the back of the cabinet and that's it.The amp will just slot in and gravity will hold it down. The inside rails are slightly thinner than the four rubber feet so the Gnome will still sit on a desk or another speaker with no issues. So my intention is not to take them off as they don't interfere. I like simple (and elegant) solutions Rob

The software has got better as well I'd be very interested in your views on the bass systems in there. I suspect others would as well Rob

I shall speak nicely to @neepheid about this. I have zero issues with lending it out. I know he will have space for a bass from North Yorkshire to the Bass Bass, however that might limit his options when he passes near Guitar Guitar in Birmingham Rob

Also don't forget to run the cable in the right compass direction to get the best sound. Depends if the copper was laid east/west or north/south when it was made. Also check the moon phase, you will find it makes a clearly obvious sound difference. I had a some speaker cable and changing how it lay so it aligned with the Feng Shui in the living room made such a difference. I also only play the bass when I am orientated NW now because of this. Ask the retailer for the cable direction and orientation information. All the retailers have it, but they pretend they don't and tell you it's nonsense. You need to keep asking, if you went into the shop with a special hat made of Bacofoil, but make sure its shiny side in and not out, that immediately tells them you are special and can be trusted with the truth. Trust me on this. Let me know how it goes Rob

It's amazing how much can be missing and it makes very little difference. I saw a video once on YouTube (so clearly doing my own research and am now an expert in this) about a American who kept removing bits of his electric guitar to see the effect. Most of the guitar had gone and he was down to strings between two tables and pickups. Being realistic, had he cheated, I simply don't know, I do know that my 3d printed guitars sound to me, fine, a slightly different tone, but I suspect that the cheap pickups may have something to do with that. I have zero wood in the body of my 3d printed basses and guitars. I try to use a decent wooden neck, a decent bridge and decent electrics but that's it. I don't spend a fortune (or even a large amount). At the SW Bass Bash 2025 @Phil Starr did a great blind listening test with a range of speakers from a 6" to a 15" in various cabs. They all sounded very good but the 8" was very well liked. Perhaps somebody should organise a blind listening test of a range of basses at a bass bash, I have no idea what the criteria would be but it might be interesting to hear. I'll happily put my home made basses in. Rob

Definitely an option, I did like your blue cabinet at the bash, Rob

I'd have walked out as well, smooth jazz version of London Calling? Wow... Not sure on the colour, Blue Aran is wholly out of stock of Tuff Paint, but have now ordered the speakers and Speakon connectors from them. I suspect that black makes sense but red highlights would be good. However I still might look for red speaker paint or just paint it red and do a black port instead. Rob

And of course it's now pouring with rain today which is highly annoying. So I've made little jig to fit the Katsu router for making the speaker hole and the port hole. The two sections need to be bonded together and a a slide fits in the middle to act as a pivot and to lock the router in place. Just need the rain to stop now....

Or I might not....

Would people be interested in my 3d printed headless bass? Does that class as 'interesting' or 'different'? I'm not precious if people say "no"....<sob> Whilst I'm not coming, I may be able to convince @neepheid to fit it into his Tardis. Rob

I now have the wood to make three of these, so I think I'll make two and the third one will be the extractor fan box for a spray booth. I got some of the wood from Skipton and still ended up in Kendal for other reasons, so tried B&Q. Their website says they have loads of 21mm x 21mm PSE in isle 35. Nope not a single piece of wood 21mm x 21mm. I forget why I never liked B&Q but its good to be reminded. I have done the port already, clearly in red as I have an awful lot of that left Not sure how I'll mount it but suspect I'll try silicone or possibly wood glue or if all else fails, three screws through. I'll try and make the port using a small hand router and print a routing template so I end up with a nice finish. Pity I can't easily print the whole cab Am going out now to fire up the circular saw. Wish me luck....I may be gone some time.... Rob

Grassington is lovely, since they film some of the Vets stuff there it's a lot more touristy. We looked at moving there when we came from London but chose Clapham instead. Skipton is a small market town. It has a genuine old castle and a really good Saturday market. It also has real night clubs according to my daughter. I would have no idea to be honest. There's great walks along the canal both north and south. You can cycle from Leeds to Skipton along the canal side. Quite easy apart from the locks at Bingley.

Any recommendation for the glue to use please? Just off to Skipton to collect the Plywood.

Speaking as someone who has transported all @neepheid's basses to a bash, I would concur with his assessment of "Don't bring everything". The one very small advantage of bringing everything, including a full top box, is that when you do pop into a rather decent guitar shop in Birmingham for the first time in nine months, you are limited to only buying anything smaller than a box of matches as there is simply no space for anything larger, thereby saving money. I'm not bitter about this at all. Nope, it's not a problem at all, it's all behind me now. Rob

Thats a good point, thanks

Probably, but it would be good to actually get the speaker built and tested first....

I am thinking about how to do the same with a Warwick Gnome and the Basschat 8" as well, but that'll have to wait until we've defeated Skynet as my speaker evolves into a Austrian accented killing machine, so probably Sunday afternoon....

@Chienmortbb I've gone from thinking how to make a small box 400mm x 300mm with a speaker in, to looking at bracing and wadding, to 3d printed vertical braces (that are too long to be printed) to a newer diagonal brace which is sqrt(150^2+200^2)= 221mm (which is printable) and I haven't brought the plywood yet By tomorrow evening it will have probably evolved into a sentient life form.... Rob

Phil Appreciate the comments and I am absolutely not trying to make waves or cause a fuss, my questions are due to me being a complete novice/muppet/idiot* here. I will probably experiment as you say. I wouldn't think that 3d printed braces would help as the plastic would be lighter than the wood, also I can't print something 364mm high on my printer. However I could join two pieces together and try that. Perhaps that's an idea, so I've not actually even started and I'm already making changes and thinking about mods, why do I do this to myself? I'm fool/muppet/idiot* Thanks Rob * Delete where applicable