rwillett

I'll experiment with some junk wood first and see how it goes. Rather nervous of wrecking a lovely neck

@Geek99 I don't have any hardwood rod (or softwood rod) or dowels of any description. I also don't feel confident about drilling into a real (and nice) Fender neck to make the right sized holes even with a pillar drill. I've never done that sort of thing before. I'd need to support the neck properly to ensure an accurate vertical drill and if I cocked it up, I'd be gutted. Somethings worry me and this is one of them Rob

I've ordered a section of hardwood rods in different diameters. I'll fine one slightly bigger, sand it a bit and plug the hole that way. In hindsight thinking about drilling the holes was a dumb idea for someone as cack handed as me with power tools. Thanks for all the help and useful suggestions. Rob

I have a decent pillar drill but do not feel confident enough to do this. I think I've answered my own question here 😊

Hi Would it be best to drill the hole out to say 4-5mm and then fill it or leave it as-is? thanks rob

Cheers, mate, thanks

Hi I'm pulling together a bitsa jazz, a nice Jazz body with very decent pickups and a decent bridge courtesy of @sifi2112 with a rather nice, quite old MIM jazz neck. The neck is wide and thin and its great to play. The body is not a Fender body but was made for Si. I've just got around to putting the neck on the body and it's very tight fit but a club hammer and cold chisel sorted that out. (joke joke). The holes in the neck don't quite line up with the holes in the body. Its about 2-3mm out. I can see the edges of the holes in the neck through the holes in the body. If they were a long way apart I'd simply not worry, but as they are so close, I don't want to damage the neck and I really don;t want to drill more holes in the body. So what's the best solution, do I fill the holes in the neck with bamboo rods and decent wood glue which I have, then redrill the holes when the filling is dry or something else. All advice welcomed. Thanks Rob

I know nothing of Helixes but I managed to brick my Tonex doing a software upgrade. Turns out that connecting a usb hub to it to the upgrade doesn't work and the usb cable needed to be in the mac. Also turned out there are other ways to factory reset things that aren't listed in manuals. Many of these devices have a factory set copy of the firmware on the box that's readonly and you 'just' need to access that and put it back in place. The costs of setting this up is so much cheaper than the return and replace cycle if something goes wrong during an upgrade. I'd be a little surprised if it really did need a motherboard from an upgrade going wrong. Rob

I brought this from Aliexpress to try it out, it's actually not bad BUT it's simply too small (in power terms) for what I need. I'm also on a mission to reduce and simplify everything. It has a USB-C connector 5V/2A in and 6 x 9V (!) outputs @ 100mA and 2 x 9V @ 300mA. I think describing it as a pedal bank is overstating it but it does work. I've driven it from a decent USB-C power source (my Macbook PSU) and it's fine but you're not going to drive a Quad Cortex from it Small pedals are fine. It's free to a good or bad home. Make a donation to the North West Air Ambulance and I'll even post it for free to the UK with all the cables (which are decent quality TBH). Thanks Rob

Only just found this thread. Wow! Absolutely superb. I doff my chapeau to you. Rob

Mmm.... No idea why mine didn't work. Will look further at this. Thanks

Deleted as I found out that Basschat doesn't appear to support GIF's. Damm a brilliant answer lost to tech.

This thread is why I like Basschat. It's sensible, informative, slightly amusing and helpful, apart from the fact I can't see the picture but clearly other people can 😊 Looking forware to the next update.

Brought some cases from Bassdirect. Two cases came in a single large Mono cardboard box. These will easily take a bass along with the case and a lot of packaging. Third case came in a guitar sized box. Both boxes very strong and I'd actually send a guitar or bass in a decent case in the boxes. They are very good. They are free for collection from North Yorkshire near Settle, though I am in Leeds on Sunday and will happily bring them along if somebody is interested. Seems a shame to waste them and send them for recycling. Rob

@Rodders completely agree.

Ah CAD - Cardboard Aided Design Neat

This is as good an explanation as you'll read. Normal Ethernet is not designed for the rigours of anything apart from sitting in an office environment not being disturbed. It's mostly solid core with a minimum radius bend. It has a outer core designed for lift shafts and trunking and once it's laid down, it doesn't expect to ever move. Patch cables are different but are not designed to move much. I wouldn't trust office Ethernet cable for more than a few weeks days if it's in constant use. I have a more vocal view of the locking mechanism on Ethernet cables than @BigRedX, mine is wholly unprintable. This is based on being responsible for the design. installation and management of 25,000 cat5 ports across 22 sites around London circa 1997, and when a decent intersite network was a 35Mb ATM connection. I still have a nervous twitch thinking about this. I think I'd rather trust a damp and frayed string holding an elephant 2m above my head than trust Ethernet in a gigging environment. I'm sure people use better cables now but I wouldn't want to use standard or cheap stuff in front of my Aunt Nellie. Anyway, @BigRedX is spot on Rob

Good job it wasn't an obsession otherwise it would have got well out of hand I was looking to cull my 14 (guitars and basses down) but now I think I'm simply not worthy.... Rob

@tauzero There's only one loose connection and that's from the bass driver. I've wired it up to the top side of the terminal block with the red square. I've used a significantly bigger terminal block as well and so all three wires fit. From looking at the billfitzmaurice website (https://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?p=294776) it appears that the piezo tweeters don't need a crossover and that the cement resistor is so "That resistor prevents high frequency oscillation with inexpensive amps." according to Bill. Since he designed it and knows more about this than I do, (which is not difficult), I've just wired it up and plugged a Warwick Gnome in and plugged a guitar (not a bass in). Sounds great with and without the tweeters switched on. I think it's now aorking so I'm a happy bunny Rob

So what's the collective noun for a number of pedal boards? I'll start with "A thrash of pedalboards"

I may, just may, have brought new connector blocks that are a little bit on the big side ... Suspect I'll have no issue fitting three cables in here, might struggle with only putting one cable in and keeping it in though

Thanks, that would be great.

I'm reasonably certain you are correct in your wiring assumptions. If not then, I assume you'll come down and fix it for me

Is Bill on here? Gosh didn't know that.