rwillett

@ead You can get from Clapham to Chorley in about an hour. Drove it myself this evening, come to the Bash in the morning and early afternoon and back for the evening. Rob

I do remember these TV shows. They were great You may need a larger piece of paper for yours 🙄

I'm going to try and summarise this as a set of mathematical equations to try and work it all out. I'm not sure English is capable or sufficient. Slightly nervous I may need to either rebuild the whole of maths to incorporate this OR enter the realm of quantum mechanics to solve.

Ski bags would be a good idea, but many are not padded to the same level as a guitar bag. Skis are fairly robust items (though EasyJet and RyanAir do keep exploring new and interesting ways to trash them). My brother has decent skis and takes them with him skiing. He's in Tignes as we speak but I'll ask as he may have an older padded bag no longer in use. My skis are in a crappy bag that has less protection than a year old Asda shopping bag.

Sorry it's taken so long to come back. I'm having to juggle major birthdays, holidays, exams and work to find a day that's best for everybody. It's Saturday April 25th all day. That seems to meet most people’s requirements. I've booked it for that day . Thanks Rob

Wow, back on the bleeding edge of tech again More incentive to finish the second cabinet then. If I had a free day or two, I could get them finished for the weekend, and even painted but sadly paid work has to be done this week and I have a show-stopper problem at work to resolve. I only have a Warwick Gnome V2 which apparently puts out either 280W or 300W at 4 Ohms, I assume this is enough to drive both speakers? Local temperature had moved up to the giddy heights of 7C so I might have some time later this evening to do the routing for the handles and SpeakOn panel. Lots of small things to be done before I glue it back together. Rob

Thanks for the comments. I'll have a think what to do. I could easily add an external bottom plate onto the speakers for stand mounting purposes. It would be external rather than internal. I've a number of decent stands I could use for testing other than the Quickset to see. I could strap the current one down to test it out with zero changes. Might do that next weekend and see. If I like it I'd put a couple of big t-nuts in the base of the speaker to allow a plate to be bolted in just in case. I wouldn't do an internal adapter as it would change the internal volumetric measurements of the cab. No idea how much would make a difference but not wanting to trash a cab to find out.

Didn't realise they were that cheap. The 'adapter' would be metal rod or a piece of wood and the tripods have already been adapted. They came with the slo-mo heads on and I took those off made plywood plates to fit various EQ heads. They are rather battered from before I brought them, but were probably very expensive as they were made for Hollywood type film cameras . I know the model or or two up from mine was $12,000. That's mine below.

@Pea Turgh Thats kind of you. At the moment, I'm just wondering it it makes any significant difference for the better to put them on top of something. I have a recollection that somebody said they should be on the floor in a corner but can't find the comment. If I had the "top hat", I'd still have to fashion something to attach to the tripod. Yet another adapter Hold off for the moment please. Rob

Is there any benefit to putting this speaker on poles at all? I happen to have a pair of Quickset Hercules tripods for astronomy use. These will easily take 40Kg each and probably closer to 60Kg without breaking sweat. No idea how to, but thats a different problem to solve... Rob

I do like your CNC machine and workshop with extractor fans and the like properly set out. Mmm.... Perhaps one day. Never seen the printable fan before and sadly it won't fit on my trim router as the vertical adjustment closes everything off, but I think the idea is great. I'd love to see more on the making of what appears to be a six string headless. Rob

As part of building the Basschat 8" cab, I needed (wanted?) to rebate some handles into the side. I didn't want the handles sticking out too much so wanted to put a 2mm deep rebate in. I suppose in the old days, highly trained craftsmen would use hammers and super sharp wood chisels and make a wonderful job but would take seven years learning how to do it. I know my limits so I do it the easy way using a 3d printer to make routing templates and routing bushes for a cheap handheld trim router. The basic principle here is that the template protects the area outside of the area to be rebated and provides a simple template that even a muppet novice user with a router can use. The complication is that you have a spinning piece of metal (circa 30K RPM) that cuts the wood, but you don't want it to cut the routing template. That's where the routing bush comes in. A routing bush slots into the router and runs against the edge of the template to ensure that the routing bit doesn't hit the template and trash it. I'm not going to get into the routing bushes, apart from saying I make my own as they are dead simple and I don't want to pay £17 for a set of brass ones that I'll only use one or two of. Many people, myself included, struggled to understand how the routing template is calculated and rather than using maths, I'll demonstrate it using simple diagrams. Step 1 - Get an outline of what you want to cut out. This is the handle # and this is the outline of the handle backplate. I know the corner radius is 10mm as I have a little set of corner radius tools that cost about £3 to buy. I've drawn this in Fusion 360 below. 2. The next step is working out which router bit to use. As the corner radius is 10mm, you could theoretically use a 20mm diameter routing bit, but I tend to use an 8mm for most things as its smaller and easier to manage. So we'll assume an 8mm bit. If you use an 8mm bit, you need a router bush that is a little bigger, so I would use a 12mm router bush with a 1mm thick wall 3. So I can either calculate what to do using a fairly simple formula OR I can draw it out to demonstrate to simplify it. I've drawn an 8mm bit in the middle of the area I want to cut out. Now if I had a really steady hand, I could possibly trace a line to do this, but thats not a good idea, so we have to protect the area to be routed. 4. So I draw a circle to represent a 12mm router bush, thats below. Technically that router bush is 1mm wider than the radius of the router bit. However the 10mm is the inside of the router bush, we are interested in the outside of the router bush which is 12mm, the wall of the router bush is 1mm thick. The outside of the router bush is 2mm, this means that the template for the bush to run against is 2mm wider than the actual area. 5. So we offset the actual size we need to cut by 2mm, that's the red line below. The red line is just Fusion 360 showing the offset and means nothing else We now have the inside of the template done. 6. It's relatively easy now to create the outside of the template, here's a 20mm wide outside. The wider the template, the better it gives the bottom of the trim router something to keep it vertical. I use an acrylic sheet underneath the trim router as it provides a great support for the router and keeps it vertical. I think it was £10 off ebay. I didn't print one because you want to see through it. 7. I add in little 'V's to help placement, I'll draw mounting lines in pencil on the cabinet to align this. 8. If I now extrude this 5mm in Fusion 360 I get this 9. I've printed the routing template and am using strong double sided carpet tape to hold it down. You only need small 1cm x 1cm bits to hold it on. If you put a long length on, you'll probably take the wood off. Ask me how I know I've cut notches in the routing template for alignment and put pencil marks to indicate where to route. 10. The router has an acrylic attachment so it keeps it flat and I can see vaguely whats going on. I know some people just use the router base to work from but the advantage of the large acrylic square is that it keeps the router vertical and it rests between the router template. 11. I adjust the depth of the cut using a digital caliper as the Katsu adjustment system is far too coarse, I'd be lucky to get within 5mm. ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE POWER WHEN ADJUSTING THE ROUTER BIT. 2mm is a fine depth to do at one go, 12mm is far too deep to cut in one go as the router bit might break as I found out in other cabs. You can see the red homemade bushing in the Katsu mount under the acrylic square. 12. Put the router inside the template, hold it and switch it on. I have a hose attachment that is supposed to pull the dust out of the router, I think my router bit is a downward one and so it doesn't work. Gently move the router inside the template. I tend to hold the acrylic sheet and follow the outline first all the way round and then just move it across the template. You can feel gentle resistance. If need be take the power off, wait for the router to stop turning and then pick the router up and have a look. It takes 2-3 mins to slowly route it out. 13. Once done, gently pry off the template, thats the chisel. You can also use that if you have missed the odd bit 14. I also did a slightly more complex template that has a full cut through of the plywood AND a rebate for the rear speaker connector. The smaller template fits inside the larger one, I just went round the edge of the inside template slowly getting deeper and deeper with the cut. This could have been done using a jigsaw BUT with this method I then have the outside template that I use for the rebate. 15. So after cutting the hole, I lower the cut depth to 2mm, remove the inside template and then do it again Nice and neat and the connector will drop in with some drilled out holes. The crappy wood at the back is to protect the Workmate. It all sounds complicated doing it at once, but it's just a few simple steps to get to the end. Rob

No problem at all. Be happy to, whens good?

Started on the second cabinet today. This is a dry run fit, so no glueing. So much faster when you have done one before. The panels were all cut a few weeks ago, though I found one end was at an angle. Suspect the circular saw was poorly setup by some idiot. Rather than cutting the batons in advance, I cut them as I needed and used a mitre saw and block rather than a home made table saw. This was a far better way of working and wasn't much slower. This means I cut to the right size as things may be out by 0.5mm or so. Just under two hours to get to this, I do now have frostbite, but well on the way to getting a second cab, so completely worth losing a finger or so, who needs a little finger for playing bass. Front and rear faces are also cut and fit, but I haven't done the holes for the speakers, handles etc yet. Rob

Just looked at the link. Looks good. It reverses the newspaper model of print and distribute to distribute and print. So distribute the files remotely and then print. I tried to set a colour printing business to do this about 30 years ago and we failed to raise the money needed for the business. We did ask for rather a lot... I understand what he's trying to do and he's addressed most of the concerns that were raised to us, things like NDA'S. Would be very interested in seeing the pricing model they use. Perhaps I might put my rates up from free 😁

Dave Let me dig them out and I'll send them down. DM me your address please

Still £6.95 too much.

Never say Basschat is not a source of diverse information 😁 I note we have managed to avoid contentious issues though and nobody has gone passive aggressive.

I also received an offer from him to Buy It Now. I recall it was £600 or so. In a moment of madness, I declined.

I built a CNC machine as a lock down project during Covid. It had a cutting area of 800mmx600mm, it was fun to build and the aim was to design a machine to cut foam for tool drawers, it didn't really do the job I thought it would do, and whilst it was a great learning experience, I have the machine away to the local school to make better use of it. As I was doing anything with bass guitars then, building a bass from wood with a CNC machine wasn't even a thought. If I was going to do anything with a CNC machine, I would go for something decent such as the X-Carve that @Richard R has commented on. I did just check it at https://www.inventables.com/products/x-carve-1 and it appears that the nice entry level kits have been discontinued and they are moving to the X-Carve Pro which are bigger and more money. However there are other kits or systems out there to replace the entry level stuff. I wouldn;t suggest making your own though as I did Rob

I think that's an excellent idea, I look forward to @Richard R showing off his designs and his work on the finished cabinet 😁

I am assuming that the 8" port is not suitable for the 12" cab? My offer to print me still stands but I have no idea of the diameter and length.

Sorry to be obtuse 😁 Fully recognise and agree with your storage and project purchasing approach. The offer is still there though, perhaps I can help at some time. Just let me know. Rob

Brilliant. I recognise the carbon fibre sheet 😁 If there is anything I can help with that needs 3d printing, let me know.