rwillett

Hi @Si600 And I know which is far more usable. I could probably cobble together a better bass from the firewood than the bass for sale. I'm going to watch it just to see if any fool is parted from his money. Also as there is a discount on three bags or more I could probably get half a bag or so extra.

Possibly overpriced by 100x https://ebay.us/m/ffFDAS

Or get someone to print a port with a flange, a gasket and three mounting holes so that it covers the hole neatly. Just a thought. Rob

I brought a red Telecaster kit two years ago. I paid a £160 or so. Didn't know any better. Had fun building it but the neck was junk, took it to a decent guitar shop to get it set up and they spent quite a lot of time trying to fix it and said it was impossible to get it right across all the neck. So if one end of the the neck was right, the other end wasnt. They refused to take any payment for their time as it was throwing good money after bad. I gave it to a local school and told them it was poor quality, I think they use it in school plays as a prop. I won't put the name here but I'd advise the OP to DM me. Rob

Ah! Didn't realise that. That makes sense now. I was going to put a grill on as well. So matt black(or red Hammerite) is fine on the baffle.

Thanks. Did you mask off the area where the speaker meets the front baffle? I would have thought that should be done, to ensure a tight fit, but happy to be advised otherwise. Rob

Do people mask off the area for handles or simply roller [Tuffcab|Armacab|Wernex] over them? I've drilled holes for the speaker, the port and the rear panel. I've also put M3 or M4 pronged t-nuts behind the holes so that's all done. Should I mask the area off or not? Not yet done holes for the handle or amp mount so checking now. I think I should mask off but not sure. Thanks Rob

Thanks for this. I've got some router bits with a decent curve 6mm and 12mm from memory. [Nope 3mm and 6mm after checking] I've also got my identically sized spray booth to practise on so I'll see which size works best. I'll probably round the plywood, put the Armacab on and then design new 3d printed corners to fit. Redesign should be relatively easy. The only area I'm slightly puzzling over is the front as it's just 12mm of ply sticking out. Will look at what other people have done here.

Pah, thats nothing, Zoe, my far better half, is still making a mosaic for my eldest daughters first birthday. Rhea is now in her 1st year at University.

I have some spare perspex, I am happy to post it to Si so he can play with it

I recall a friend have these, they sounded fine.

I've printed mine and they assume a square edge. I think I'll do some rounding on the dges and do a redesign of them Rob

Si I've tried using perspex once and I'm not looking to do it again. It's a difficult material to work with and the use of power tools was really tricky. I gave up as things splintered and scratched. However other people may be far better at it than me. Rob

Fair enough...

My Armacab arrived Weds. Well packed, but still sitting in the box. Have you started yours yet? Was interested in what prep you are doing. My intention is to try it on some off cuts and see how it handles slight defects on the edges. Not sure if I need to have the surface piano grade smooth or the armacab will easily handle the small splinters on the edges. Also not sure if I want or need to round the edges. People seem to do it but I'm not sure why. My cab is basically done bar wiring and finish. Slightly nervous about the covering though.

I see that many people round the edges of the cab. Is there a good reason for this please? Perhaps for the mottled finish or because the plastic corners assume so? If so what's the recommended radii? 5mm? 12mm? Or just to take edge off? Thanks.

DM'ed you.

Just in case anybody is interested, I've designed and printed a complete port and flange for my 8" speaker. Its the correct length, 87mm, and is 64mm internal diameter and fits a 68mm hole. It has three M3 screw holes and the actual flange is sized so you can put M3 T-Nuts behind it and so they don't overlap the hole. It has a gasket groove on the back , so you can put 2mm x 10mm foam around the back of the flange, and when you tighten the screws up, it sits flush to the baffle board, but you now have a better seal. Especially useful if you port hole is a bit rough. It has simple text on the front, but I change that easily. I can print them in a variety of colours, but red is very popular at the moment as I still have 27 reels to go through I'll print them for free, I'll include some foam for the gasket, just pay for postage and a appropriate donation to the North West Air Ambulance of whatever you want to pay. I'd prefer it to be more than 1p but I won't check. I can adjust most things quite quickly and easily so if you wanted your name on them, or a different size or whatever just ask. Different colours can be done but only if I have those colours sitting on the shelf. Thanks Rob

If you want me to nail one long piece to some pallet box wood and throw some strings on top, it can be. Happy to help

I can sell you some equal calorific firewood for £5 if that helps....

I have a lot of good clamps so it's not any issue to glue and clamp. Easier than screws, no work at the end with filling, though I will need to fill some of the areas. Also just had a call from Penn Elcom apologising that the Armacab won't be here until Weds this week. Somewhat surprised as I wasn't expecting it until Friday anyway, so pleasantly surprised. Rob

It could be that he's playing so hard, he's snapped the neck of his guitar (and of course his wrist from his arm and managed to add an extra finger, but as he's a guitarist he might need it). It could also be that he has a very, very long forearm that's managed to bend backwards and hide behind his knee and shin. Also clever the way the mike is balanced in thin air, can I have one of those? Of course I am being exceptionally charitable to AI Slop. Rob

Looks good. My panels needed to fit in a certain orientation as well. I appear to have made the back panel flush so if I put any foam behind it, the panel would stick out so am contemplating what to do. I could route a 1.5mm ish recess around the back panel so I could put foam in. Not sure on foam stripes, wadding or cross brace. Advice seems varied on whether it will help. I suspect we both have the same offcuts so the cross braces seem easy to do though. Suspect the weather won't be good here so might be Saturday before I do anything else. Let's see how yours goes. Rob

I'd be happy with a primary school class TBH.