rwillett

This looks interesting but I'm still trying to understand it. It's from Ofcom https://www.ofcom.org.uk/siteassets/resources/documents/consultations/category-1-10-weeks/270826-consultation-protecting-people-from-illegal-content-online/associated-documents/consultation-at-a-glance-our-proposals-and-who-they-apply-to?v=330411

I've just skimmed the Ofcom pages, all 84 pages. It's draconian, bureaucratic, process intensive, intrusive and impossible to police. The fact that further guidance is still to be published will mean this Ofcom will probably have to be revised, though it does look rather thorough at the moment. The basic premise of the act is that any U2U service is capable of being used for any of 17 different crimes. So the smallest website that allows input and comments becomes a potential vehicle for any of the 17 categories. This is unenforceable in my opinion. Note that this is my opinion. Ofcom will need to increase its budget 10x or more to handle all of the workload coming through. Ain't going to happen. I would suggest that every single website asks Ofcom as many questions as possible and drowns them in paperwork. I'm also going to look at what the legislation says, if I can get it.

You must be new here....

It's odd how some things work per measurements. Milk - Pints Miles per gallon , not miles per litre Beer - Pints Paint - Litres Height - feet and inchs Weight - Kg (now), took some time to convert but my electric scales are now in Kg rather than lbs and Oz Bass weight - Kg Wood measurements - inches as well as mm. Its mad how you go to a timber yard and they quote the width of wood in inches but the length in metres. At least they do around here. Cooking - Mainly grammes but occasionally cups. I have two daughters who like to cook and they seem happy with anything. Shirt collar size, waistband on trousers and inside leg - inches, sadly some are too big now Bottles of gin etc - Millilitres Shorts (alcohol not clothing) - millilitres but beer is in pints? Road speed - Miles per hour Road steepness - Percentage. Which is far more sensible but I still convert to 1:x which is far more difficult to understand Guitar scale and length - Inches

I live and learn, thanks for this.

I have an 89 Made in Korea Squier Telecaster, yep I know it has the wrong number of strings, but I brought it as it was the best playing and best sounding six string in the shop to me. I suspect the 79 Les Paul that was in the shop might be a better guitar to a far better player than me (basically the world and his dog), but to me the Squier Telecaster is a great guitar, not a great Squier but a great guitar. I tried genuine Fender strats, the aformentioned Les Paul, and a couple of other ones and I kept coming back to this one. I walked in the shop with a £1K in my pocket and walked out with a nice guitar and most of it left I now seek out the older Squiers and similar. My Jazz is a 97 MIJ bass, I occasionally borrow my daughters Vintage (brand not age) Les Paul she's learning to play on, I have a Hohner Strat copy that @Burns-bass sold me for £50 and its great for me. None are expensive guitars, I'd be sad to see them destroyed in a fire or lost, but if it was a choice between my guitars and most things, I wouldn't save the guitars. However after saying all of that, I would like an old birth year Fender or Gibson. Heart over head Rob

Isn't that one of those really heavy 70's Fenders...

Do you change the size of the pedal boards or the contents? I have more or less settled on my pedalboard. I wanted to keep it simple so just had the mod dwarf at first. I then had the chance of a new ToneX for about £100 so added that. The tuner just made things easy and the EHX mixer was to bring a bit of order into chaos. I chose the rail length size to fit the pedals and have forced myself to stick to it though I do note there is a large gap on the front that something expensive might fit in 😊 Once I did the sides that was it. I could change the length of the rails so I coild fit more pedals in. I could also split board in half and have two pedal boards. Theres no extra printing needed as its designed to do that anyway. The pedal toppers work for me as I play solo in my home office and am often in bare feet. I don't find I hit the other pedal tops as I can make the tops any diameter I like. So some are a little smaller as the foot switches are closer together. As I design and print them, I can easily make them whatever size I wish. Make you a couple of you want.

Hi Simon The pedalboard works well. I had to put a couple of risers at the back to elevate the ToneX and the Mod Dwarf by 25mm. Dead easy to do. I used the risers to route power cables through as well, so that removed some of the wiring away and kept it neat and tidy, two words never normally associated with me. The Cioks PSU is underneath and the mains cable comes in from the side. Its quite a neat and tidy system. The 1/4" cables don't fit through the risers as they have a 90 degree bend. I may redesign some of the end support rails to be a little lighter and quicker to print, and also to raise the back pedal row up and sell them to order. The support printing is not my design, so I can't and won't sell them. However I think I can make them a lot better, a lot stronger and a lot easier to print through sensible design. The printing is rather Russian tank in nature, works but a more modern design will be a lot better. It's really neat being able to design the board to fit the pedals as opposed to the other way around. Rob

To be honest, that's the sort of pick-guard I would design. Sadly that's not a good thing...

Very nice indeed Does that mean you're selling something else off to ease the financial pain?

Mmmm.... Morecombe is only about 45 mins away.... Dog happens to need a long walk along the sea front... might just pass by Rob's house.... Who knows what might happen .../ Possession can sometimes be ten-tenths of the law Rob

One reading of this could be 02 = Jazz Bass - Looks about right 01 = Rosewood Fingerboard (can't see it) 43 = possibly could be 43rd week of year 3 = 1973 3 = Weds Taken from http://www.guitarhq.com/fender.html#specs Of course I could be 100% wrong and more than likely am. Rob

Looks fabulous to me

It's a set of test prints to check how PETG can be filled and sanded down for spraying. PLA is horrible to sand as it clogs up paper or discs. So I am glueing two bits of PETG to deliberately create a join line, filling the join line, sanding down using a mesh sandpaper OR wet and dry, using a primer that is "supposed" to act as a filler (ha ha ha ha) and then spray painting a decent colour on top, so using gray as a neutral colour, and then putting a polyurethane coat (or two) on top of that. I want to see how good I can make it. So am printing off a few test sets to use. Rob

Have a look at this for a pretty exciting 8 mins or so.

You could of course get a larger pedal board, just thinking outside the box... Rob

Once I'd opened a bottle of Chablis last night, work seemed to go faster, certainly by the 3rd glass they definitely were. Things that I thought were going to be a problem, weren't. Not sure if that was down to: 1. Me being a clever so-and-so 2. Alcohol making me think I was a clever so-an-so 3. The new design of the Prusa Mk4 making me think I'm a clever so-and-so but really the Prusa Mk4 designers are the clever so-and-so's. My money is 95% #3 and 5% #2. The extruder head went together very well. The docs (which I did read in spite of me being male) were pretty good. The only issue I had was that the cables of the new hot end were thicker and so some of the cable routing is very, very, very tight. This has stopped a cover fitting properly, which is no issue apart from visual. Setting the tension of the X-Axis belt cable was done using a microphone, an iPhone and plucking the belt. I didn't try it with a plectrum which was a bit silly. I still can though. The Prusa self calibration tests went well and passed first time. Bit of a surprise to be honest. Fired the printer up, did a small test and it printed well so went back to what I was trying to do and got this Mmmm.... Spaghetti Clearly an issue, clearly not a bed adhesion issue as the two parts are still on the bed. This looks like I had set the temperature wrong on the PETG, layers simply not sticking, so I banged the temperature up to 250C from 225C (which is what the sodding temperature tower told me) and it now looks a lot better This is taken directly from the webcam I mounted on the printer. It does a timelapse video which I might put if if people are interested. They are strangely hypnotic to watch. Lesson learnt, temperature towers are not always right Rob

Rob, Dangerous place to go unless your credit cards are locked away. Then again £250 isn't a bad price, however must resist the temptation. Oddly enough I am down that way tomorrow, coaching girls rugby at Vale of Lune Rugby club. Vale of Lune is a left turn at McDonalds as opposed to a right turn to Morecambe. Thankfully Promenade Music is closed on a Sunday, so I can't accidentality go there. Rob

Printing the parts is not a problem, though I did spend five hours printing the wrong ones first. The problem is: The wiring of the extruder head is a nightmare. Prusa leave approx 01.mm extra wire so it's awful trying to lay 12-14 cables through a narrow channel, around bends and then into a PCB. Had a 30 min go earlier and I got precisely nowhere. I then have to do X belt tension which is always a massive hassle. You're never quite sure it's 100% spot on, though I like the idea of finding the frequency of the belt (if it works). Getting the Z-distance offset for the nozzle should be automatic, lets see. I had a great printer before, now I've had a go with it, will it be a good and accurate printer again? The Prusa calibration stuff looks good, lets see if it is. I am going to look at using AI for bad print detection so these issues can be avoided in the future, Rob

I was wondering who would be the first one to use that joke.... @SpondonBassed you have won a free colon inspection. please report to your nearest NHS hospital....

Today, I'm going to be talking about how you can destroy your extruder head with nothing more than a slightly greasy build plate. I did a print run a few days ago using PETG on a Prusa Mk4. PETG is slightly more difficult to print than PLA as it uses higher temperatures (240 vs 200) and it needs a satin steel sheet to print on, rather than a smooth steel plate for PLA. PETG will stick very, very well to a smooth plate, so you always use a hot (90C) textured plate to print on. Once you know that, PETG is fine to print on. Did a quick print overnight and came back to finding this lump of plastic hanging from the extruder Mmm... lovely. It was supposed to be part of a 3d guitar, but clearly went wrong as it appeared not to have stuck to the plate. It actually ended up wrapped around the bottom of the extruder and filled just about every nook and cranny and was stuck everywhere. The problem now is that the extruder surrounds are all printed in PETG so this is now one big f"£$%^&*()ing mess. Heated the nozzle up to 250C and managed to prize the above off but it was everywhere else and the heat of the nozzle wasn't enough. Tried to use a heat gun and ended up pulling most of the bottom of the extruder off as it was basically just one large lump of plastic now. You should NOT be able to see the bottom chrome bar through the extruder. The photo makes the damage look a little worse around the middle of the extruder. However you can see the nuts exposed, the linear bearings and all of this should be hidden. The next problem is that new parts are needed and can be printed. That's one great thing about Prusa is that most of the parts can be downloaded and can be thrown onto a printer. I don't believe Bambu, who make great printers BTW, can do this. Thankfully I have a second Mk4 and once I'd worked out the two parts needed, three hours of printing got me two new parts. The problem now is that you have to completely dismantle the printer head as the larger green item above is the extruder chassis that everything hangs off. <sigh>. Pretty big job. I spent a few hours yesterday gradually dismantling it and then starting the rebuild. The major issue is getting the tension on the bearings just right, which involves getting screw tension just right. I then have to put the belts on and use a tuner to get the belt tension to 82Hz. 82Hz is pretty close to E on a six string, so will try this with a cheap clip on tuner first Hope to get this done tonight, but an awful lot of effort for a print not sticking to the build plate. Rob

I've not had to reinstall the software. nor load and presets each time I restart the pedal. I have reset the pedal deliberately as I cocked things up, but it just worked. The interface is rubbish and someone earlier suggested the librarian should be split from the pedal bit. I think that's a good idea. Indeed the iPad version doesn't have the Librarian in it which is annoying. What worries me is that you have had a lot of problems that I haven't on Windows. I haven't used it as an audio interface though. I have a crappy old Lenovo, Windows 10, with 16GB of ram but its 5-6 years old, minimum, might be older.I did nothing clever so I'm wondering what you have thats messing you up. @bnt seems far better versed than myself on this stuff, so I'll defer to him but I'm happy to help when I get back fromLondon Rob