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ghostwheel

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  • Birthday 05/04/1981

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  1. That kind of distortion you are after is the power amp distortion, or at least, that of phase inverter. It's impossible to get such one with preamp. You might like to give Origin Effects BassRIG Super Vintage a try.
  2. I wish there was a reaction like "hysterical laughter" here.
  3. I've got one. It's a bit different. Its neck profile is not exactly what I am used to on US 'Rays, but it is not to its disadvantage. Allegedly, its body is made of alder (we know it doesn't make any difference, do we not?). The hardware as well as electronics are supposed to be exactly the same as on US Stingrays. I personally would say you'd do nothing wrong buying an EX one.
  4. ghostwheel

    De-Fret??

    @DTB, have you tried to ask Yamaha if they could make a fretless replacement neck for this bass? Another option might be to order a fretless neck by some luthier (if I remember correctly, Jon Shuker could make one). In my view, it might be worth a try instead of making changes to your beloved bass that might turn irreversible.
  5. If you're more after AlNico than Ceramic, DiMarzio AREA J might be worth a look. I had a DP248 once (well, I actually still have that one but no bass it would fit in). Can't say anything bad about it. It sounded like a J-pickup in the bridge position.
  6. Here is a simulation of the preamp with bass at 5 of 10 and treble at 3 of 10. It's clearly not the best simulation, and someone like @Passinwind would be able to do it better. To me, it's a cut-and-boost preamp. Does it make any difference? I think not
  7. I love it on my HB MP-4 (EMGs and LHZ-04), but am note quite resolved about it on a Squier Contemporary Precision (rerouted for reversed P) with Bartolinis Classic and flats.
  8. Just my tuppence. The X series features STELLAR.45 driver, which isn't the same the good old DT xx0 Pro ones you mentioned before utilise. This STELLAR.45 sounds and feels different to old ones, as well as is only available with impedance of 48Ω. Some people like this, the others don't. Having tried both 700 Pro X and 770 Pro X, I clearly prefer good old DT 770 Pro 250Ω.
  9. It actually isn't if it's built exactly after the original one. Both controls all the way down make it sort of slightly mid-boosted. There's a thread on TB with measurements done by someone who seems to know what they're saying. I've got those measurements as pics but am not quite sure what would it look like regarding copyright and such stuff.
  10. like this?
  11. Thank God.
  12. FWIW, there are two 12AX7 according to the manual for 220 Touring. In the schematic I've got, there are two 12AX7 as well. Apart from that, the design is rather typical for 12AX7.
  13. Most flats are made of stainless steel, if I'm not mistaken.
  14. Those preamps (Touring, Spyder, probably any Dual Tube ones) are muted bevor Master Volume, that is the grid of its first triode is connected to the ground (muted), but the rest isn’t. This valve, especially when not very good one, could be the “receiver”. You might like to replace this valve with another one labeled as V1 (low noise, less microphonic, etc.). If you are going to do so, you need to check whether it’s a 12AX7/ECC83 or something else.
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