SamIAm

I cannot imagine someone with a spoon down their sock being overrun by slugs.

Nods, I firmly rub over the tape with the end of a cheap bic pen (or similar), the APT tape I linked to above does have conductive adhesive and gave great connectivity when I used it, I overlapped tape strips by about 10mm. S’manth x

You will remove the potentiometers when shielding the cavity, make sure the shielding tape runs all the way up to the edge of the holes (and even into the hole) … when you put the pots back in, their metal casing will be in contact with the shielding and should provide a ground connection. Make sure alll the tape strips you apply have an overlap with one next to it. Make sure the tape in the cavities wraps a little onto the front of the body, when you put the cover back on this will make connect the cavity shielding with the cover shielding. Not sure if you’ve seen this page which has some good instructions. https://sixstringsupplies.co.uk/pages/copper-shielding-how-to-shield-a-guitar A cheap multimeter would be a good investment, several on Amazon for about £10. S’manth x

The process is pretty much that simple, just need to ensure it is connected to the guitars ground. I’ve used this tape from Amazon. Copper Foil Tape for Guitar and EMI Shielding, Slug Repellent, Crafts, Electrical Repairs, Grounding - Conductive Adhesive - 2.6 Mil Total Thickness (51mm x 5.5M) https://amzn.eu/d/bmQb3uC It has done the job nicely, nice durable thickness, good adhesive (which is conductive) and cuts well, has great reviews from others and will also keep slugs away from your pups. S’manth x

The Citizens Advice Bureau has some useful info (I’m an ex CAB advisor). https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/changed-your-mind/changing-your-mind-about-something-youve-bought/ For a UK based company, You automatically get a 14-day ‘cooling-off period’ when you buy something you haven’t seen in person - unless it’s bespoke or made to measure. The cooling-off period starts the day after you receive your order, and there doesn’t need to be anything wrong with the item for you to get a refund. 14 days is the absolute minimum cooling-off period that a seller must give you. These rights are given by the The Consumer Contracts (Information, Cancellation and Additional Charges) Regulations 2013. S’manth x

I’ve also ended up more than one, a B1Four and a B1XFour … small, light, great price performance and the ability to run on batteries is great. S’manth x

Bought a pedal PSU from Paul, good communications, rapid delivery and just as described. Great BCer, thanks Paul! S’manth x

+1

Bass stuff on a MOD Duo ... tho it should also work on a Dwarf.

Thanks for the details, that KF-20 looks amazing! FWIW I'm with you one the zero fret. S'manth x

Totally agree! My experience of buying/selling here on BC has been top notch! S'manth x

That looks totally amazing! I've googled alumec but can't find where to source it in the UK ... do you have any links/suggestions? I'd love to know how you are crafting it ... hand tools, metalshop tools, CNC? S'manth x

Which do you have ... Dwarf or Duo (or both)? S'manth x

Anyone interested in buying a MOD Dwarf ... I've just seen one on Reverb for £320. S'manth x

My pedalboard which is a work in progress. The heart is in the MOD Dwarf, one of the lesser known but nonetheless very capable multi-fx units. The first configuration I'm working on is this A M-VAVE midi pedal makes up for the MOD's limited footswitches. The Korg tuner is nice to have (The Dwarf has a tuner, but it is so so). And an expression and volume pedal make up the set. This is my first 'proper' pedalboard and I'm awaiting delivery of a power supply for the Korg/Expression/Volume pedals (Never used one before) and I need to wire it all together. Looking forward to the fun to be had! S'manth x

Having recently got my hands on a MOD Dwarf, I wanted to add some footswitches (Like some other multi-fx units, it only has three). I was considering a self build (Having made one before) and then in my search for a suitable housing stumbled across the M-VAVE midi pedal. It is a small, rugged (It has a lovely heft to it), bluetooth midi (and wired I believe) footswitch. It has four footswitches and a jack for an expression pedal. One can configure what midi commands get sent for a footswitch and can change 'banks' (8 of them) by pressing on the left or right pair of switches, and I've read (but yet to test) that the switches can be set to respond to short or long presses ... so possibly a total of 64 different command sequences! It has a built in battery which they claim to run for 12h (charged via a USB-C connector) and is tiny ... and best of all is inexpensive at £33 from Amazon (Ordered this morning, delivered this evening) The documentation is rubbish (but there are some resources available from other users on the web) so I've yet to get it fully setup, but hopefully it will sit in my pedalboard quite nicely ... and if not I can strip out its guts and replace them with a microcontoller which will do everything I need. S'manth x

Tenor ukes tend to use normal uke strings, bass ukes are the ones with the polysynthsomething strings. S’manth x

I concur with @EBS_freak, I recently got a used copy of this here on BC and it is amazing! S’manth x

I'm trying to get my oscilliscope hooked up to check, but I think it was tracking down even lower than the E (I've a fiver). I wonder if the hardware architecture would make a difference to the ability of the plugin to track 🤔 Not tried any pitch shifting yet, but once I've got my scope running I'll try out some options and share the results here. S'manth x

A big advantage (IMHO) of the more common headless design with the grub screw head end mount is that one can cut down string length (A bit of TLC is needed first, some crimping and superglue) ... this opens up a much larger range of string choices (Especially for the short scale that I prefer). With these tuners, the same constraints exist that one must have a thinner silked section of the string that goes into the tuner. (Tho I suppose that at the head end, one could cut off the ball end of the string if one was using a grub screw system) S'manth x

Welcome Oliver! S’manth x

So far they are quite good. I’m getting low noise from the Dwarf and the effects I’ve tried sound good. I’m surprised (in a good way) at how well the octave (an oc-2 clone) seems to track. I’m playing with setting up a full bass rig, which is taking a lot of time … there are not too many bass orientated examples about, tho I’ve found one config to make a UBASS sound more like an upright and it is surprisingly effective! S’manth x

Yes, I have a set for my next build. The Ibanez appear a bit more flexible. S’manth x

I really wish these tuners were available on their own. S'manth x