Joe Nation

Looks to me like the only issue with setting them up 4-in-a-row is the space available in the cavity - some of those circuit boards are pretty big. But if you're after using a normal Jazz control plate, surely the J-Retro 01 is the way to go? Or the 01 Deluxe if you're prepared to fit a side-mount jack.

That's the version I had - PJ and three knobs - but in blue like the OP's one.

Nice pick-up choice, now I need to add mismatched pole pieces to my irrational prejudices list.

Try https://www.croxguitars.com/products.html. And yes, bushing is probably a better term than ferrule.

In theory you can put smaller tuners in bigger holes if you have ferrules with the right inside and outside diameters. Whether such a thing exists or not, I don't know. Or you can plug and redrill the holes, but that's a lot of work. Those are nice tuners though.

I had one of those, also about 25 years ago (crikey, how am I that old?!). It does give Tom Daley a run for his money, but looks amazing - like an Explorer on speed.

Loving that spray booth, might have to get me one of those.

I'd hang that piece of wood on my wall! Almost seems a shame to chop it up to make a bass, almost...

I always fancied a MM St Vincent bass, but sadly they never made one. These are the only two I've even seen, both homemade AFAIK. I also just happen to have ordered a neck and a big block of wood on Reverb...

Ted Woodford (youtube: twoofrd, guitar repairer extraordinaire) uses artist's alcohol markers for touch-ups, even on all those super-pricey vintage Martins and Gibsons.

*weighing in for no reason* Saying to turn something left or right implies an agreed frame of reference for what is up and down - if you turned a nut "to the left" when holding the tool above the axis of the nut, you'll get a different result to if the tool is below it. Of course for a Fender-style headstock truss rod adjustment, you can't do it from below because the headstock is in the way. But if it's headless or one of those neck-off heel-adjust jobs then you could easily make that mistake. Clockwise and anti-clockwise are certainly more correct and appropriate terms for discussing fastening of nuts and bolts. But no less ambiguous than left and right, depending on context - if for example you are approaching a bolt from behind (doing a reach-around?).

Good call. Should've hit them with one of these:

Calling a neck made of carbon fibre "graphite".

You can do it quick or you can do it right...

I was just about to say the same thing. They always seem to have way too many strings and knobs too, and ridiculously OTT figured wood.

Keyboard cleaner spray works too.

Jazz/P/Strat/Tele/LP copies - Fender and Gibson are allowed to make their own copies (Squier and Epihpone), but everyone else is just ripping stuff off. Painted headstocks (and necks) except maybe black if it's a Gibson, Parker or Warwick etc P pick-ups - why are they in two bits like that? Brand new relic/road worn stuff

Trouble with doing that is you're putting the screws into end-grain. This is fine for tuners, pickguards etc, but neck screws are under a lot of load and ain't worth risking IMHO (especially on a heel adjuster). If you can find cross-grain dowel or use a plug cutter it can work fine though. Personally I'd go for inserts and bolts - use a drill press or a guide block to ensure the holes are square (perpendicular to the surface, obviously they need to be circles).

Imagine you're after a new Jazz bass and you have about £500 to spend. Do you opt for the £489 Squier CV Active 70s - active pickups, nice block inlays, lovely turquoise or mocha colour options; or do you shell out a little more on the £549 Fender Standard - simple classic Jazz spec and colours (blue/black/burst/white), but it has "Fender" on the headstock? Are you likely to feel and hear much of a difference between them (assuming both are set-up well and if you want to get real picky you can fit the same strings)? I guess the active electronics of the Squier will give you more options for sound output, but is it "better"? Or does the enhanced quality of the Fender actually show through? Personally, I'd go for the Squier CV 60s in daphne blue, but that's beside the point.

Oh that? It's the new Paul Simonon road worn signature Precision, costs a fortune that does.

Another vote for a new amp and a set-up. Amps turn the signal from the pickup into sound, so getting a good one is crucial if you want a better exp-ear-ience (made-up word). The guitar is the tool you use to create that signal - as long as it's set up well, you can get a decent signal out of almost anything. Definitely plug your G4M into a better amp and see what happens to the sound (and try a better guitar in your own amp if possible).

It is if someone buys it 🙄

NOOO!!! WD40 will wash out any grease from the bearing and significantly shorten the life span. It does have some lubricating properties but it will evaporate off if the bearing gets hot (which it will). Drop some 3-in-1 in there instead, or better yet re-pack it with grease.

One thing my 7yo struggles with (apart from having the attention snap of a gnat) is managing all the strings. Going down to three is great because then they can focus one fretting finger on each string and strum all three without worrying about which strings to mute or play open or whatever. I got her a mini Strat copy for £20 on facebook, it looks and sounds great and I reckon she'll get there eventually, but I wish I'd seen the Loog first!