StingRayBoy42

VERY cool! And where did you get the Moog cushion?!

I'm the other way- gotta have exactly the same (Mono Betty Long Bkack) strap on every Bass.

I used Doc's proplugs for years, they were pretty decent - £20 ish? I use custom ACGs now - pricier at £149, but (once you get used to them) they are fantastic.

Tarragon went out of business, they had to send the bayleafs in.

I'm selling my Dyson, it's only gathering dust.

Sounds like you're Dyson with death...

Thank you! I did look at connectors... I didn't know they were called spade connectors, turns out they're more widely available than I thought.

I went for the EBS MultiComp Blue label for a few reasons - it looks pretty simple, it's got decent reviews and there was one on the electronic bay at a decent ish price. After an entirely unscientific half hour muck about at bedroom levels, I think it sounds pretty good. Very much trial and error, but Sens and Comp set at 12 o'clock seems to give a nice, natural sounding compression and of the three modes, Tubesim sounded the best to my ears. It seems like you'd have to really try to get a 'bad' sound of it. I'll no doubt fiddle with it as I go along and ask the keys player/sound engineer/boss for his input at the next few gigs, but for a simple, decent sounding compressor... I'm happy with it.

Mr Shepster8316 sold me an MXR M81 - good price, nice pedal, great comms, quick postage, top Basschatter.

Don't worry, I won't - not after what happened last time.

This is a Very Good Thing - everyone's got a spare kettle lead and having wall wart wires across a stage gives me the heebie jeebies.

Apologies if this is a really dim question, but I want to avoid a slow, painful death or (worse) damaging my PSU and pedals. I have a Voodoo Lab PP3+ on my board (IEC socket), and a Powercon (Neutrik, blue, round) socket in my patchbay. Am I right in thinkng I connect an IEC lead to the PP3, solder the bare wires at the other end of the IEC lead to the terminals on the powercon socket (and cover it with the Neutrik SCDR Plastic cover for the rear of D-size chassis connectors) and connect a powercon lead from the powercon socket to the mains? That's how it works, right? Obviously, I won't be doing the soldering myself, I'll get a grownup to do it as (clearly) I know less than zero about this sort of thing. The powercon socket is this exact one https://www.designacable.com/neutrik-nac3mpxxa-wot-neutrik-20a-powercon-panel-mount-flat-tabs-pack-of-1.html And the powercon lead I'm probably going to buy is this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143091490432 Both proper Neutrik jobs and both the new XX series which means it can be disconnected while live. I think? All and any input welcome and if anyone in Birmingham fancies soldering some bare wires to a powercon socket, I'll pay the going rate.

The Harley Benton ISO-2 has 2x500mA outs and 6x300mA outs for £60 https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_powerplant_iso_2_pro.htm There is the clunky wall wart issue, but it looks like it'll power your board.

Everything @itu said, plus my 2 cents. I use a Harley Benton ISO-5 on my little board - it's great and was only £42. You might need a bigger one as you've got more than 5 pedals. The only issue with HB stuff is the Clunky EU wall wart. Myvolts do a good replacement but that's another £15 or so. Voodoo Lab pedal power 2+ on my big board. These are the business. Pricey (£70-100 used) but worth it IMHO. Silent, reliable, lots of outputs and 12/18V options. Cioks stuff is good as well. Get one with more outputs than you need, you'll be buying more pedals at some point. Size matters of you've got it on your board (rather than under it). Don't get a cheapo one , it probably won't be isolated and could be noisy.

Forgot about them. They got job interviewees to come up with marketing ideas, didn't give them the job, then used their ideas without payment or credit. Allegedly. https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/craft-beer-giant-brewdog-denies-16168211 And yeah, their beer is pretty good... it's thirsty work, having principles!

Nice bit of old-school trolling, you don't see much of that these days.

All non-musical, but... Nestle, Coke and McDonalds because I'm old enough to remember the 1980s. Wetherspoons because the owner treated his worlers abysmally during the pandemic. Amazon because of their shameful tax arrangments. Once I've brought that lot to their knees, I'll make a start on Pepsico and Proctor & Gamble.

Well worth paying a graphic designer IMHO - they can be pricey, but (like musicians) you're paying for the twenty years experience, not the twenty minutes work.

Soft on the board, scratchy on the pedals, but I'm not sure why.

Suitable for: Home-schooling,Professional Performance,Beginner,Unisex

NVM, found them... they seem to have gone out of business. ☹️

I love those little cabs! What are they?

I like my Protec Contego. Vertical loading in & out, no leg slappage, solid case, lots of storage. Never had a 2x10 fall on it though (touch wood). https://www.thomann.de/gb/protec_contego_bass_case_ctg_233.htm

I haven't played loads, but I think the neck profile and PUP has been pretty much the same since day one. Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong (it does happen). The bridge changed a bit in the early EB era - IMHO, the 'Flea' bridge (94-95) is the best - still has the mutes, strings are straight from the saddles to tailpiece. The site @ped mentioned has a thorough rundown! I love my '94 3 band.