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Does anyone have a bass equipped with Graphtech 'Ghost' piezo saddles and an Acousti-Phonic preamp? [url="http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=14"]http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=14[/url] Would be interested in any comments on the quality of the piezo sound and some sound clips if possible. All the demos of the Graphtech piezo system on YouTube are for guitar, none for bass .. Thanks

If the head of the screw is inside the button sound like it's going to be difficult or impossible to cut a new slot (and definitely not with a hammer!). Is the strap button loose enough for you get a hacksaw to the screw shank (between button and body) and leave enough of it protruding to use mole grips to wind it out?

Bought a PIO cap from Nick. Posted to me next day (might even have been same day). Very friendly chap to deal with, would buy from again. Thanks!

This ad for 'original' jazz bass pickups (vintage reissue / US standard) says 7.25 kOhm for neck and 7.50 kOhm for bridge [url="http://www.musik-produktiv.co.uk/fender-jazzbass-vint-us-std-set.aspx"]http://www.musik-produktiv.co.uk/fender-ja...us-std-set.aspx[/url]

Sold my Aphex Punch Factory to Tim in response to his wanted ad. Friendly, quick and straightforward transaction, a pleasure to do business with. Many thanks Tim

This link explains how to measure DC resistance of pickups while installed in the bass - [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/just-pickups/9291-how-do-i-measure-output-pickup.html"]http://www.tdpri.com/forum/just-pickups/92...put-pickup.html[/url] DC resistance is a frequently quoted pickup spec but only measures the resistance of the windings which doesn't tell you much about the output which is a function of the magnet type/strength and other factors (remove the magnets and the DC resistance is the same but the pup will produce no output at all). Inductance is more useful but is difficult to measure without specialist equipment. This link provides more detailed info on the key factors that determine pickup output and tone characteristics - [url="http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/lemme/"]http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/lemme/[/url]

Hmm, one thing the D and A have in common is that they both go under the string tree. Have you checked that the tree is firmly screwed in? If it's not that or a dodgy string then the problem must be to do with the bridge or nut. Try the following one by one to see if you can isolate which: 1. Press the D string down just behind the second fret and while its 'fretted' tap on the string just above the first fret. There should be a slight click or ping as it hits the first fret indicating that there is some slight clearance and that the nut is cut correctly. If there's no click/ping then the nut may have been cut too deep (can be easily fixed with a little super glue) and the open D+A strings may just be grazing the first fret 2. Loosen all strings, place something like an allen key under the strings in front of the nut (put a business card underneath it to protect the fingerboard) so that the strings go over this rather than the nut itself to take the nut out of the equation, bring D+A strings up to tune and check 3. Raise the D+A saddles at the bridge a turn or two to make sure you're getting good string contact over the saddle and check Then report back!

Re Rob Trujillo cover and Aug'08 BGM - just checked and sorry don't have either of those

No!

If the action is as you like it (neck relief, string height above fingerboard) then the easiest fix is to raise the pickup. If it's already up as far as it will go then take the pup out (easy job - just take the adjusting screws out and lift) and put some more foam underneath. If you feel the bridge saddles are too high for comfort then shim the neck at the end away from the bridge as you suggest and then bring the saddles down.

[quote name='Paul S' post='1064256' date='Dec 20 2010, 07:59 AM']Anyone else able to chip in with their measurements? So to speak?[/quote] Don't have a Fender standard to compare with but have a Gotoh 201 on my Squier VMJ which also measures 70mm and fits perfectly

The Squier VMJ fretless is an excellent first fretless. General quality of build and sound is very impressive for something at this price point. Got me started. I've since acquired a 5 string fretless (probably a step too far given my meagre abilities) so may now sell my VJM. If you're interested drop me a PM

Hi Clarky, I'm a fretless novice but have tried both and much prefer flats (TIs in my case). Large factor in moving to flats was the excessive string noise I got from rounds, no doubt due to my lousy technique. Planning to try some Status grounds soon which are apparently a good halfway house. BTW anyone who says rounds don't mark an ebony or phenolic board is lying! Ian

[quote name='Dsalter1' post='1051643' date='Dec 8 2010, 01:37 PM']This looks very handy can collect from guildford if you are about?[/quote] PMd

I'm having a clearout, find it therapeutic from time to time. This is a USB interface and software CD for converting your old vinyl to digital audio files. Done mine a while back so no longer needed. Up for grabs to anyone who can make use of it. Just pay the postage and it's yours - Royal Mail special delivery is £5.50 (recommended with the current postal situation), regular first class is £3.00 (at your own risk!). [attachment=65935:P1030611.jpg]

Just sold a P-Retro to Paul, thoroughly nice chap, quick and easy transaction and a pleasure to do business with. Cheers!

Boxload of assorted BP and BGM mags from the last 7 or 8 years (not counted them but guess about 100 or so, maybe more). Free to anyone who can pick them up from Rudgwick in West Sussex (RH12 3DX). If no interest by the weekend then off to the recycling centre

I can also recommend Bass Gear in Harrogate - [url="http://www.bassgear.co.uk/used-stock/"]http://www.bassgear.co.uk/used-stock/[/url] They have some interesting used basses and Phil Nixon is extremely helpful