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Starless

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Everything posted by Starless

  1. [quote name='karlthebassist' post='726780' date='Jan 27 2010, 08:00 PM']So is it a satin laqure finish or a oil/waxy jobby? looks really really nice. the walnut i use doesn't come up nearly that dark! I love things like that. like the all rosewood stingray that was on the eb site! mmm...[/quote] It's a satin finish (lacquer or whatever - I'm no expert). No oil or wax involved., if you are familiar with the Rickenbacker C64S (the one that attempted to replicate McCartney's sanded Ric) - it's the same texture. I presume they take the wood, stain it and then cover it in 'non-shiny see-through stuff' (technical term) as opposed to the usual 'shiny see-through stuff' (other technical term). Sorry, blinding you all with science here.
  2. [quote name='lemmywinks' post='723073' date='Jan 24 2010, 01:23 PM']What a gorgeous bass, one of the nicest Jazzes i've seen. Drop me a pm if you decide to sell it![/quote] I may just do that.. Unfortunately I have no idea where to price it as there seems to be no other examples of this bass kicking around anywhere.
  3. [quote name='Wil' post='723081' date='Jan 24 2010, 01:35 PM']Wow! I bet that thing weighs a ton.[/quote] No, not at all. It isn't actually made of walnut. Just finished to look like it. It is the same weight as my 'standard' CIJ 62 re-issue.
  4. [quote name='Jerry_B' post='723075' date='Jan 24 2010, 01:27 PM'][url="http://www.fenderjapan.co.jp/fender/2008fender/jazzbass.htm"]This site[/url] has it listed as a 'J-Craft' type (JB62-WAL). Not cheap either![/quote] That's the thing though, the 'WAL' is a poly/nitro (whatever a highly polished finish is). The tags on my one specifically identify it as a 'JB62-73 MWN' - not shiny, just matt/satin finish. Struggling to find reference to it anywhere.
  5. I was wondering if any Fender Japan gurus out there could shed some light on this one. It is a 62 re-issue Jazz in a walnut satin finish. I have seen plenty of examples of 'JB-62 WAL' models, but these seem to be very shiny. This one, according to the paperwork is a 'JB62-73 MWN' - I'm guessing the MWN stands for 'Matt WalNut', but that could be a load of bahookey. I have seen Squier Jazzes in satin walnut, but that is only the body. This one is satin walnut body, headstock, and back of neck and headstock, in fact, you would be hard pressed to find a more walnutty non-shiny bass than this one. It looks like it has been dipped in chocolate. The trimmings aren't quite all black either. The pickguard and control plate are black, but the bridge, saddles, strap buttons (including the 3rd button on the back of the headstock) and the neck screw plate are all a kind of swirly greeny kind of gunmetally sort of finish. The tuners - I can't decide...somewhere between black and swirly greeny kind of gunmetally sort of finish. Difficult to tell in different lighting conditions. When I got this last year (used) it came with the hanging tags etc, one of which declares it is a Fender Japan 'Craft Shop' bass. So anyone know what this one is all about? I have been trying to find other examples online, but haven't turned anything up as yet and am intrigued as to what/where/why this one is all about. Fender Japan are still manufacturing the walnut finishes, but they are shiny (and bloody expensive!) It plays identically to my bog standard CIJ 62 3TS (although the satin neck is a bit of a treat compared to the normal shiny one). One thing it doesn't have is the external earth strip from bridge to pickup, and the saddles are smooth single groove jobs as opposed to the spiral saddles on the standard re-issue. Here's some pics: [attachment=40911:wn_01.jpg] [attachment=40912:wn_02.jpg] [attachment=40913:wn_03.jpg] [attachment=40914:wn_04.jpg] [attachment=40915:wn_05.jpg] [attachment=40916:wn_06.jpg] [attachment=40917:wn_07.jpg] [attachment=40918:wn_08.jpg] [attachment=40919:wn_09.jpg]
  6. If you have a really nice Jazz then maybe you could do a trade?........ [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=65517&hl=maple+fretless"]WITH THIS ONE[/url]
  7. [quote name='Lostheplot' post='662956' date='Nov 23 2009, 05:43 PM']I'm still dreading the actual gig though [/quote] That's the other important thing. Don't get scared. What's the worst that can happen? You could be complete sh*te, but so what. Just remember it is you that is up there, not the punters. The adrenalin will kick in and once that first number is out of the way and you hear the smattering of drunken applause it is plain sailing from there on in. Pick an absolute dead cert as an opening number, up-tempo, simple and right in their faces. get off to a flyer and you're halfway there. Don't stand looking like you want the ground to swallow you up. Take every opportunity to look up and around at each other and out into the crowd. Staring at your shoes (or your fretboard) throughout the gig will make you look scared. Tapping your foot is a good thing to do, and having a bit of a jig around even better. Be confident but don't be an arrogant cock. I speak from the mid-life crisis experience of being a home 'noodler' for 30 odd years, before finally going out there and doing it in public for the first time earlier this year. First ever gig in front of a Saturday night pub full of boozers with that 'Go on, entertain me' look in their eyes. Nerves completely evaporated as soon as the first note was struck in anger, and the applause at the end of that first number was an experience I will never forget. I had to learn something like 30 songs of various genres in about a month and there is nothing like having to do it rather than just piddling around to make you a better player. Second gig - great, third gig - so-so, 4th - fine, 5th - cracking.... etc etc. I'll be in gig double-figures next weekend an I'm loving every minute of it, should have done it years (decades) ago. You'll be just fine.
  8. Starless

    HELP!

    [quote name='TRadford' post='663176' date='Nov 23 2009, 09:14 PM']I love the looks and tone of the Warwick, I love the range of tones from the G&L and I love the look and heritage of the Stingray.[/quote] But which is better? There's only one way to find out.........
  9. "a 1963 jazz bass with the L serial number, all original except for the body, fingerboard and headstock" Sorry, but is this a wind-up thread? Surely this ceased to be a '63 Jazz bass some considerable time ago, and is now in the category of 'Frankenbass'. Clinging on to that description on say, an eBay listing would have the punters on here laughing their socks off. When does a bass cease to be what it was manufactured as? Change fretboard OK, rip out the electrics fair enough, but replace a Jazz body with a P? This is mental.
  10. Thanks once again for the all the offers to purchase, but the problem at the moment is I need to have a fretless to play on pretty much continuously, so the swap/trade is the only thing I can hope for at the moment. If I sell, then I will have to rush into buying something/anything that may not 100% fit the bill. I've recently started on a 5-string (Ibanez - cracking bass for the money) with a 'slim' neck (for a 5-string), so if I can get used to that then maybe the P neck won't feel so 'wide' after all. Still holding out for someone out there somewhere with a natural/burst, unlined Jazz.
  11. [quote name='mpjsols' post='649273' date='Nov 8 2009, 11:27 PM']I think 35 and I am using ADAGIO PRO - 5 String Set 45-125.[/quote] Have you tried tuning the bass down one or two steps, just to relieve the tension? If you try that and find that you are eliminating some of the zinngg, then would be worth looking at trying lighter guage strings (40-100 maybe, and keep the 125 B string).
  12. [quote name='byronlukeallen' post='649203' date='Nov 8 2009, 10:05 PM']he wanted to give up bass and start guitar,[/quote] Surely some mistake. Bass is what you progress to AFTER playing guitar. Strange chap.
  13. I've found the higher the tension (no matter what brand of strings) then the more Zinnngg! there is. You say it is a 'longer scale bass' - longer than what? Maybe you need lighter gauge strings to compensate for the increased scale length and reduce the tension a bit. Maybe keep a tight B, but lighten up the other four. What gauge of strings are you using and what is the scale length of the bass?
  14. [quote name='Beedster' post='646245' date='Nov 5 2009, 02:20 PM']An alternative would be to trade necks. I listed a maple fretless Precision neck for sale last year and there was a bunfight over it, at least 10 BCers were very keen to get their hands on![/quote] That's not a bad idea, but the way the body and maple finishes have been matched would make it a bit of a shame to break this one up. If it was Bombscare Red or Sphinctiferous Brownburst then fair enough (I can understand why Fender cover the crap wood with colours, but never why people lust after them). She goes as a complete unit or not at all.....
  15. [quote name='KERMITNT' post='646124' date='Nov 5 2009, 11:39 AM']this is awsome keep it m8 [/quote] I only want to keep instruments that I enjoy playing, and although she is a lovely player, it's just that slightly wider neck that bugs me. No problem if I had never discovered the '62 Jazz neck. I would be blissfully un-aware and thoroughly enjoying my fretless adventures. If I hang on to her simply because it is (apparently) a very rare, desirable thing to have, then I become like most Rickenbacker owners (keep it in its case, don't breathe on it, never let it out of the house, just LOOK at it (but not too hard).... etc etc).
  16. [quote name='pete.young' post='644667' date='Nov 3 2009, 08:19 PM']That's a lovely bass. I can say that secure in the knowledge that I have one that appears to be identical, except that mine has frets. However, mine also has a jazz-width neck and a fairly solid 'C' profile. What's the width of the nut?[/quote] She is 41mm at the nut, 57mm at the octave. For reference my 62 Jazz is 38/54. The profiles are virtually identical, but that extra 3mm all the way up the board makes it just a tad on the chunky side for me. I have had a few messages asking for the weight - just under 5 kilos, and also where I am.... Aberdeen (sorry).... and also an astonishing amount of people offering to buy if I don't manage to get a trade. The stock answer to that at the moment is - let this run for a wee while and if no trade happens, then I will have to look at selling. But then I have to go find myself an un-lined fretless Jazz in a natural wood colour somewhere....
  17. ****** SORRY TO ALL INTERESTED PARTIES. I WILL BE HANGING ON TO THE BASS IN THE MEANTIME. ****** I finally have to face reality. I am a Jazz neck kind of guy, so no matter how beautiful this looks hanging on the wall she has to go to make way for a fretless Jazz. I would like to trade if possible (straight swap for the right instrument) rather than get into that nasty money type stuff. She is a CIJ (02-04) 70's re-issue fretless precision in perfect nick and she looks like this: If anyone has a similar quality (or better!) fretless Jazz bass along the lines of a '62 re-issue (which is my main fretted bass) then I would be very interested in doing a deal. I'm looking for no lines, no nuthin' up the fingerboard and a natural wood coloured body (sunburst is OK). I know it's a long shot, but maybe someone out there has a fretless Jazz that they can't get into and would far rather have a P (especially one that looks like this). If not, then I will look at selling after a while.
  18. Without a doubt, get the wooden 2 vertical screw one. I have 3 of them along the wall screwed through the plaster and into the wooden uprights behind the wall (no need for any plugs or plaster fixings). The screws supplied are long enough to get right through. The triangular metal things will probably not guarantee all the screws are in wood and I wouldn't trust my Fenders with any kind of plasterboard or fancy fixing plugs. As an aside, I use another 4 of the wooden vertical ones above and inbetween the lower 3 for acoustic (lighter) instruments. These ones are in plasterboard and utilise the supplied (very long) rawl plugs. You don't need a builder to find the solid wood behind the plasterboard. Just tap your knuckle along the wall and listen. Hollow sounding means no wood, solid sounding means screw it in there. Depending on the age of the house or wall they should be about a couple of feet apart (mine are about 22 inches). Perfect for basses below, acoustics above. Rock solid (pardon the pun) and the wooden bits match the guitars (and the dining table).
  19. I just can't see me debasing my Fenders with those pretty wee pastel coloured bits of twee. Probably Ok for 6-stringers (they're all closet flower arrangers anyway), but not on a bass.
  20. [quote name='lemmywinks' post='606200' date='Sep 22 2009, 10:32 PM']That looks stunning, good score mate! I'm a sucker for dark wood finishes anyway but that's beautiful If you fancy a fretless sister for it have a look at the link down there [/quote] That does look rather nice.... thanks for the offer, but she already has a fretless sister.... I will have to get a photo of the two of them together... will that qualify as 'gear porn'? If so, better not refer to them as 'sisters'. Maybe, 'just good friends who share a room together and become emotionally and sensually entwined as they explore their deepest....'. maybe that's taking the analogy too far, I'll stop before I include the vibrating G-strings.... Need to go have a lie-down now.
  21. Thanks for all the replies people. She arrived today, and I must say Ishibashi have out-done themselves this time. The serial number dates it to 93/94, and when I enquired about the condition of the bass prior to purchasing, I was told 'a few scratches, nothing serious. Frets 80-90%' - I wasn't sure what the fret reference was all about, but went ahead with the purchase anyway. After unwinding about 50 metres of bubblewrap, she revealed herself in all her glory - not a mark on her apart from some serious scuffing and scratching on the black pickguard. I then noticed that the pickguard still had it's protective film on it, and after peeling it away, I was left with a shiny new pickguard. So, a fifteen year-old bass with not a mark on her anywhere. It is a matt walnut finish and I would have expected to have seen some 'shiny' patches where actual bodily contact has been made while playing, but no - nothing. Whoever owned this before obviously wasn't into playing very much. Now for the tricky bit. The tuners are black-ish (a kind of almost metallic black), the tailpiece, neck plate and strap buttons are a dark metallic greenish kind of gunmetal sort of colour - does anyone know what the technical term for that is? It is going to be impossible to find a set of schaller strap buttons to match. Gold won't do it, and their black ones are just too ...ehm...black. Does anyone know of a decent straplock system that would work with original Fender vintage-shaped strap buttons?
  22. Thanks for the replies folks. Good old Fender Japan along with Ishibashi's used stock have contrived to make me part with the dosh for my first 'duplicate' bass. It is a walnut finish '62 re-issue CIJ Jazz, and as I already own a CIJ 62 Jazz in John Paul Jones 3TS, I'm hoping the quality of the one currently on its way will be comparable. I've never obsessed about how a bass looks before, but just thought the completely walnutted Jazz would go well with my completely mapled fretless P (CIJ of course). A kind of matching contrasting pair that would complement each other on stage. Mmm... Walnuts and maple syrup... Mmmm.... The 3TS jazz is my 'baby' my gigging workhorse, and there is sentimental value attached to it, but when the walnut arrives... One of them will have to be eBay-ed..... Those Japanese chaps do make exceedingly good basses, at a fraction of the price, and the choice of models and finishes is just mind-blowing (and over-draft inducing). Can't believe I've just pulled the trigger on a bass because of the way it looks. Jeez... Shoot me someone.
  23. I have seen a couple of walnut finish basses recently, and was wondering what the score was with this finish. Body, headstock (front and back), back of the neck... In fact, just totally walnutised. I'm presuming this is not solid wood, and is some kind of all over satin finish. Does anyone have any experience of this (especially on a Jazz bass) and how did they sound and play? Also, when did Fender actually produce this finish - were they ever standard production models or custom jobs? Any replies appreciated as I'm beginning to lust after this particular finish. Help me......
  24. I've had some of the cheapest nastiest old basses able to hold a note for ages (well beyond what would normally be required if actually playing a song), so this magical sustain of which you speak is no indication of a bass's 'quality'. Thru-necks tend to have more of it and so thru-neck fans bleat on about how great the sustain is - it's like marvelling at how a 4x4 can climb mountains when all you ever really do is take the kids to school in it. If I needed a bass note sustained for a whole bar at constant tone and pitch I would get a set of bass pedals or plonk a synth in front of me. And what is it with these people (eech..sounding like a stand-up comedian now) who fit brass nuts (no monkey jokes now) to their basses? "Oooh... listen... great sustain...", these poor sods play nothing but open strings all night? This is all really for people who attach the output of their instrument to an oscilloscope rather than a performing amplifier.
  25. ...and the next thing to do is buy a Hipshot replacement tailpiece, so that you can adjust the saddle height INDIVIDUALLY, and then re-intonate after the neck adjustment without having to loosen off the strings, and then be able to palm mute the strings without knocking lumps off of your hands courtesy of the useless damper adjustment bolts, and finally marvel at a piece of engineering which doesn't actually bend (tail-lift) when put under tension (which is what bass tailpieces tend to be most of the time).... etc etc. You guessed it.. I had Rics once, and that damned bridge assembly is the biggest waste of scrap metal ever to appear on a 'high-end' instrument.
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