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hooky_lowdown

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Everything posted by hooky_lowdown

  1. If the parts are chrome, simply use the green side of a washing pad, rub in one direction and it'll remove the chrome to leave the duller metal underneath. Then place parts in a container or small box full of screws and nails, shake it vigorously. You'll end up with metal parts looking genuinely roadworn.
  2. Are your pickups passive? I know a lot of active basses have passive pickups. If this is the case ask Ki0gon to make you a solderless passive loom, and simply replace the loom.
  3. SOLD - 1989 Squier precision bass made in Korea.
  4. Because I'm going to wire to a 51 style control panel, so trying to keep it limited to two pots, one volume, one tone. As simple as I can make it.
  5. I'm about to embark on a pj side project (just for fun). I've got P and J pickups and I'm thinking about wiring a standard P harness with the J wired direct to the jack, as I like to run the J on full all the time. Then my theory is that if I turn the volume to full, I get both pickups, then by rolling off I sort of blend the two pickups. Will this work? I guess the J will run super bright as there's no tone pot for it, but that's ok. Alternatively, I might go for a push/pull volume pot, and wire both pickups to it, then I can choose pickups. But the J direct to jack intrigues me.
  6. The fret ends on mine were good. No sharp edges. Drop in some Wilkinson hardware, Wilkinson alnico or Toneriders pickups, and good electrics (i.e Ki0gon) and it'll be a very decent shortie for little outlay.
  7. I had the exact same bass. The tort pickguard is naff, looks bad up close, ok at best from a distance. The electrics on mine were poor, if I moved the jack (moving around) it would cut out. Pickup is ok, tuners (smaller than standard) are ok when new, but in time will need replacing. The gloss neck is fabulous, the amber tint looks really good, plays and feels real nice. Think it has a 38mm nut, very slim neck. The metallic blue paint is nice, looks good. Has a bit of weight, and balances ok. Bridge was ok.
  8. I have vintage hot's in two of my basses. Excellent pickups full stop. They will definitely be very different from the Delano's. Don't be fooled by the price, the Kent Armstrong's are great pickups. Wilkinson alnico and Toneriders are dirt cheap and are brilliant sounding, just less hot then higher priced pups. Low price doesn't equate to poor sounding these days.
  9. I doubt the female players you mention started on long scale 5 strings. Most likely worked up to them. Likewise the OP could. But for now feels it's too big. Two rules for starting or learning. Buy something you like the look of, and secondly - buy something that feels good to play. The sound etc can easily be changed with strings and pickups.
  10. Number one influence on your sound is the strings. Then pickup type (alnico, neo, ceramic), neck and body woods have a very small influence on one's sound, a natural wood body or one with nitro will give a tiny bit of warmth, if it's covered in thick poly, you'll get a more snappy, punchy tone due to the vibrations from the strings bounding off the plastic like surface. I'd say electrics have as much influence as neck and body woods. Sustain is different from tone. A heavy or high mass bridge because of its shear mass, will increase sustain due to vibration lose through the body is less then a bbot bridge for example. The choice of nut material can also influence the sound. A cheap plastic nut, because of its relative softness will give a softer, warmer sound. Other materials can give a glass like tone, super crisp.
  11. You just can't go wrong with a Yamaha. Never played a bad one, always well made. @Chienmortbb brass saddles are the worst for sustain, because brass is a softer metal than your standard steel saddles, so absorbs vibrations more, meaning they deaden the sound. If you want sustain get a bone nut and high mass bridge. 😀
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