Vibrating G String

[quote name='murrmac123' timestamp='1319358595' post='1412925'] Absoutely correct, that is precisely what is supposed to happen after leveling. Remember, you already [b]tightened [/b]the truss rod prior to leveling, in order to make the neck straight. After leveling, you then [b]slacken [/b]it off a tad, and that is what gives you the required relief. [/quote] No, you're supposed to get a flat board with no string tension. When you flatten a board with string tension you get backbow in the neck. If you do this with heavy strings and then switch to lighter tension you don't have enough truss rod to back off any more, also you loose the range of the truss rod to deal with humidity changes. Backbow kills necks, front bow is easily fixed by truss rods. Overtightening the truss rod previous to this will only mean you level your board to a state of greater stress than it will be used in causing dips in the spots where compressed rods cause humps and where neck thickness changes drastically. Truss rods don't run the whole length of the neck and their force is not even on the neck at least compared to a set of strings.

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1319321763' post='1412788']The plek system is an expensive white elephant...at least in the opinion of Chandlers.[/quote]My opinion too, along with compensated nuts and the Buzz Feiten system. A good pitch to people who don't understand science but have heard some of the words before can be a very profitable thing. It's very important in these campaigns to get people to agree with you publicly as once they do they will defend your scam to the death as they have become invested in it. And this is coming from someone who creates these campaigns based on this psychology. People would rather be ripped off than wrong, I make money on this principal

[quote name='henry norton' timestamp='1319290180' post='1412314'] Am I missing something here? Both these systems look like glorified sanding sticks. Flame away..... [/quote]You're not missing a thing.

[quote name='murrmac123' timestamp='1319285653' post='1412243'] With respect, you could not be more wrong. The fretboard should be brought to straightness under tension by means of truss rod adjustment.(straightness being defined as the first fret, the fret over the truss - rod anchor, and the mid point all being co -linear.) . The frets should then be dressed with the neck under string tension, and you then slacken off the trussrod to give the required amount of relief. Doing it this way absolutely [b]guarantees[/b] that the instrument will play cleanly with no fret buzz. as long as the rest of the set-up is correct.( Obviously you still need to sand a fall-off in the upper frets) Doing it your way (presumably you slacken all the strings and then straighten the neck with the trussrod prior to leveling the frets) will indeed work adequately in the majority of cases, but there will be a significant number of cases where it doesn't work, because the neck is behaving differently than it should when subjected to string tension, ie it is not curving as predictably as one would wish, resulting in fret buzz. even after the frets have been leveled. Every guitar tech with any degree of experience will have encountered this phenomenon. The solution, as I said above, is to level the frets with the neck under full string tension. There is indeed a situation where dressing frets with the strings off is advisable, and that is when the frets are badly worn and grooved, but the customer just wants them dressed but does not want a refret. In that case, it is a [b]lot [/b]quicker to do a conventional fret dress with the strings off , and hope for the best. If it works, (and it probably will) and there is no fret buzz, then well and good. If there[b] is [/b]any fret buzz, then the only solution is to redress the frets with the neck under tension. That is why it is called the Advanced Fret Leveling System. You pays your money and you takes your choice ... [/quote] If you level your fretboard with the strings under tension you get a flat board with no relief. But I'm sure your fake science will sell some expensive sanding sticks to suckers who fall for it. The guitar world is filled with scams like these, I'm not going to help you sell crap to idiots.

[quote name='bubinga5' timestamp='1319235747' post='1411835']odd time[/quote]?

Learn to dance

Didn't Percy Jones play one of those Ibanez's? I can hear some of his influence in the video.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' timestamp='1318976006' post='1408608']Thanks to the extra scale length all strings have an even tension from the G string to the low B[/quote]Scale length does not dictate tension, that is down to the mass of the string at a particular length. Even tension is possible on any neck. Also higher tension equals less fundamental and more overtones. That's why it can sound so clear on the B because the frequencies are more focused on the more audible range of hearing. Short scale basses sound tubby because they are more dominant in the fundamental and lower overtones.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1319140828' post='1410573'] Depresses me every time I come across manufacturers making instruments in interesting (non-wood) materials but don't have any original ideas beyond that. What's the point? [/quote] When you're selling to a very traditional superstitious demographic you can't offer too much diversion from the norm at once if you want to sell more than a few pieces.

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1319233277' post='1411780']but the demo vid is a bit of a disappointment[/quote]It's all orange! I know that has nothing to do with the bass but it pisses me off when people shoot such lame video to represent such a large company.

I liked the sound in these 2 clips http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNu_RA4QH8Q http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtGasjVVtxg

[quote name='AttitudeCastle' timestamp='1319150170' post='1410709'] Agreed! And why would you buy one when hundreds of other and cheaper basses which sound identical. Why use Aluminium unless it sounds different? If it does why design pickups that make it sound woody? Then the metal body is just a gimmick! Maybe i'm just being cynical... [/quote] It's a gimmick if you're trying to sell it on the tone myths most builders do with wood. If it's just for fun it's just another look.

You can really hear the wood. (if you don't know it's aluminum)

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1318670322' post='1404921'] I've never experienced that.. But once I put my F1 through a cab that didn't have a high enough power handling... As luck would have it, the fan hadn't come on on the head (an intermittent problem on F1s I think, easily fixed by blowing into the hole to get it moving ). Which meant it was running a bit hot, and shut itself off. I turned it off and on and was fine. So it's probably a thermal protection type thing [/quote] I've heard a number of complaints about bad fans on MarkBass amps. They look like standard computer type fans, I'd bet there's a higher quality model we can swap in. It's a great amp at a great price and putting a few dollars into modding it would be reasonable for me.

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1318674368' post='1405004'] Yes - there is protection circuitry which cuts out the power stage if the amp overheats or the power fluctuates - I'd say that you have most likely triggered this by unplugging and plugging stuff in with the power on. As you've found out, it's generally not a good idea to connect and disconnect speakers from amps with the power switched on. [/quote] Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear.

[quote name='Pete Academy' timestamp='1318669247' post='1404904'] Are you using jacks or speakons? [/quote] Hi, I was out of town for a few days sorry for leaving you hanging. I used jacks.

[quote name='skankdelvar' timestamp='1318677999' post='1405060']It sounded exactly like a normal Telecaster and I went home a broken man. So much for acoustic properties. [/quote] BURN THE WITCH!

Tobias Killer B, thin neck 17.5mm bridge spacing. Any Ibanez SR will be slim with 16.5mm spacing at the bridge.

6 pounds to 6.5 pounds. So the 900 is ever so slightly less likely to get yanked off a cabinet by the cord.

Hi, I was playing at a gig through my trusty LMII and to hear one cabinet soloed I pulled a speaker cable from the back of the amp while I was playing and plugged it back in. Shortly after that the amp was dead quiet though signal was still flowing out the DI in back and into the PA but not to either cabinet. I futzed with it a bit and then after turning it off and back on it worked again. Is there some kind of circuit breaker/protector in there that I tripped or might I have more serious problems?

I went to buy one years ago. All set, had my mind made up after playing them but after A/Bing it in the store with an Eden Traveller 400 the Eden was much nicer to me and I bought the Eden. Years later I was in a band that had one in the studio and it's still a nice head but nothing compared to the Markbass LMII I would bring in sometimes. So, I don't mind playing them at all but I'd never buy one.

[quote name='cytania' timestamp='1318658135' post='1404839']Bespoke luthiers also want to encourage the idea that they can control the sound when you custom order. [/quote] I was one of them bee spokes for a while. Most people came in asking what woods will make them the best. If you don't play the game you can lose the client.

[quote name='phil625sxc' timestamp='1318591183' post='1404037'] you used to be able to download some of his cds from there, which i thought was a nice touch... [/quote] I talked him into that They're still there too http://LaurenceCottle.com/buy/ The site would be updated more often but he hates promotion.

Ralphe is my Geddy or Victor! Cool article, interesting to see how far from first Jaco was on fretless.

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1318624269' post='1404641'] Absolutely makes sense. The whole point of tonewood surely is that you select the bits that will work and send the rest off to the cabinet makers?! [/quote] What is the selection process and what specifically does it tell us?