JackLondon

"shameless plug" Buy my Compact "shameless plug"

Does this help ? It's pretty simple really. The device used whether tube or transistor is BIASED so it is in conduction 100% through 100% of the input signal. You need to know how an amplifier works. Lets just discuss tube amplifier. If the tube was unbiased and allowed to just conduct the tube would heavily conduct and do nothing but make heat. A bias voltage is put on a control grid to do exactly that control the current flowing through the tube. The cathode is Negative plate voltage and the anode is the positive point. This bias voltage placed on a grid located between the cathode and plate slows down the conduction, the higher the NEGATIVE voltage in respect to the cathode the more the tube is throttled down. With enough negative voltage on the cathode the tube can be completely cutoff. The input signal is placed also on this control grid and as its voltage varies up and down at the frequency of the music, the signal pulses from zero volts to positive and then swings negative and back again at the frequency of the note. This signal is at a much smaller value than the control grids high negative bias value but the combined bias and signal voltage cause a HUGE variation in the current flow through the tube. This small voltage to huge current flow change is how the amplifer works. The current flow changes in the primary of the output transformer causes voltages to be induced in the output transformer secondary winding and makes the voice coil move on the speaker. OK back to CLASS... A class A amplifier is biased to conduct current in the final amplifer tube 100% of the input signal's cycle. Preamps are usually run this way and makes for a very pure amplified signal. A tube has a plate dissapation limit for heat. When there is no signal present in a class A amp it is still conducting like there is signal present. Very clean amp and very inefficient power and heat wise. This is also a single ended amplifier as there is just one amplifying device. If you used a large enough tube and used a big enough fan, you could build a super large class A amplifier and that is what the esoteric audio guys are doing using 833's and other broadcast triodes with 450 watts dissapation tubes as giant clean class A amps. They also get $80,000 for their trouble for a pair of stereo channels. A Class B amplifer on the otherhand is biased to cut off the final amplifier tube through 50% of the input signal's cycle. When the tube cuts off it is allowed to cool for 180 degrees; half of the 360 degree signal cycle or 50% of the time. The problem with this class B is you only amplify half the signal and it would sound like crap without putting the other half of the signal back somehow. In RF circuits the output circuit FLYSBACK and induces the other half back in the amplifiers tank ciruit (the equivellence to a power transformer) however at AUDIO the ability to flyback cleanly doesn't exist in such a huge heavily inductive device so that half must be regenerated instead. SO we use another method instead of a single ended amplifier; in push-pull they split the input signal positive and negative and send each half to two different amplifiers. The positive cycle to one set of tubes and the negative part of the cycle to the other set of tubes. Each set of final tubes conducts in exactly 180 degree increments cooling in the other 180 degrees and the output is fed to each end of the output transformer. The transformer puts the two halves of the signal back together.... SO even at audio a perfectly biased CLass B amp could make 100% undistorted beautifully reconstructed audio... Well not quite. You'd need to be constantly tweaking this amp over time. Tubes aging and voltage changes... The manufacturers have lazily decided to run the P-P amps class AB. All that is is a sliding of the bias towards conducting a little bit more current during the tubes rest period. This allows for imperfections in componants and a crumby barely regulated POS bias supply to still make a complete more non-distorted sign wave at the output. A guitar amp is really a truly POS audio wise. That's why a tube amp breaks up and does the distortion game. This would never be allowed to happen in the Audiophile World. Class C is only good for RF amps making morse code, digital, or AM amplified carrier based amplifiers (cut off to less than even 180 degrees of the cycle) And class D is completely different and uses other processes.

[quote name='RhysP' post='792051' date='Mar 31 2010, 03:39 PM']But you'd only buy the house that you liked, not live in loads of ones you hated because it was a "learning experience". [/quote] Yes but you wouldn't know if you hate without seeing it. If you won't play something you don't know if you like it or not.

I reckon do it, I love blues as it is such a creative genre! Take for example me, a bloke from Poland that was fed death/trash/power/doom/black and any other sort of metal you can think of from my early days! When I came to England I have never heard of people like Bootsy, Larry Graham and a million if other players! I've benn told by my girlfriend that there was a "funk" band looking for a bassist but I told her that I don't know how to play funk etc. Went to the first practice and we're still going strong 3 years later! I love the guys in the band and I can click with the drummer instantly whatever any of us is playing! I introduced them to some crazy arrangements and off-beats that are usually found in metal abd they introduced me to songs that prove that less is more! It's a good and healthy thing to go and try something else! Think of it as buying a house, you wouldn't go and look at just one would you? So why get stuck onky in one music genre? Just my 2p Jack

Hmmmm, about 10 minutes away from me, very tempting

[quote name='andyjingram' post='787876' date='Mar 27 2010, 02:21 PM']I'd say that this is a good option! Why use something which makes you sound worse?! I think this is the reason for all the 'TRUE BYPASS!!!' declarations on manufacturers websites. It sort of boils down to a tiny bypass loop within the pedal, therefore saving you all the hassle and additional expence of adding one. If you have an effect which is indespensible to your sound, which has a terrible bypassed sound, an extra loop is a good idea, if you are just starting to buy pedals now, then make sure they don't mess with your sound (when bypassed, of course!) in the first place.[/quote] Yes, but if you bypass the pedal it shouldn't make your tone crap as the signal should pass from input straight to output, it is the problem that so many manufacturers claim to offer true bypas when in reality it is far from it! The Cornish bloke case isn't exactly valid either! Technology has moved on since 2003 and at the end of the day his promoting his product so again is prone to big claims that are not always reality!

That sucks man, best of luck fiding the gear and if you find a bloke who done it then smack him with 8x10 from me

I just purchased a Boss BR900CD from Graeme, item received in very good condition, well packaged and posted very quickly. Top bloke to deal with. Cheers Jack

No pictures so it didn't happen right ? Ever wondered how an orgasm sounds ? [attachment=45737:Chorus.JPG] Cheers Jack

Look what the guitard brought to me for mods and repairs Here's some pics : [attachment=45661:Wah1__2_.JPG][attachment=45662:Wah1__4_.JPG][attachment=45663:Wah1__6_.JPG] [attachment=45664:Wah1__7_.JPG][attachment=45666:Wah1__5_.JPG] As you can see the state of it leaves a lot to be desired, he told me that he just sanded of the bits he could and then sprayed straight onto the surface. With a good bit of sanding I put the first 3 coats of primer [attachment=45665:Wah1__10_.JPG] Once the coats dry out properly I will sand them back, use a filler where there are big gaps and then put another 3 coats of primer. Once it's done it will get a two tone finish, white and orange. In terms of mods it will have all the usual stuff that can be found on the net, vocal, mid boost, bass boost, auto on/off etc. On top of that it will have 2 LEDs that will be constantly on located on the right and left side of the bypass switch, the underneath of the foot pedal itself will then be lined with reflective foil which will bounce the light back on to the wah, it should look cool but it will take a lot of work before I get there. Cheers Jack

Small Clone, I've finished building one yesterday and it's f*cking awesome!

I'm not trying to ditch the cooking thing but maybe just get simple snacks, sandwiches, drinks and then if we're all hungry we can order some sort of takeaway ? That way everyone will get what they want

[quote name='karlthebassist' post='786218' date='Mar 25 2010, 07:31 PM']Hey Chaps Two things really, First of all, I have built an MXR microamp from a schematic online, and I get the most horrible thump when switching it on and off. Is there something that can be done to a switching circuit to stop this thump/click? Other thing is, I'm collecting up a few effects these days, and want to make a loop selector or two to try and get the signal path down when im not using things. plus the boss effects SUCK tone like nothing else. I can think of how to make a loop pedal, with a loop on/bypass function, but it would be literaly wires, jacks and a footswitch. there are some seriously expensive loop pedals out there - what else is in them? i assume something to stop the clicking thump, but what else? I'm no stranger to electronics, as I did a lot of it during my apprenticeship, and have copied preamps and other circuites before. but the building from scratch thing allways seems to defeat me for some reason. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers[/quote] For a good fix of ''pop'' noise go here [url="http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/box_pop.htm"]http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/box_pop.htm[/url] , this method works really well at least in my experience. With regard to loops your imagination ( and technical abilities ) are your limit. You can put anything on them, blend pots, volume pots, tone pots, feed them back through the loop again, integrate DI etc. Go here for some simple examples [url="http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalHacker/index.htm"]http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalHacker/index.htm[/url] . Once you set on what you want it is pretty straight forward. When you think that something is going to defeat you then you have to change this attitude. About 2 months ago a pcb for some of the effects I've done recently would scare me sh*tless but now I'm more confident and thanks to other guys on here as well as wealth of info available on the net you can get through anything. Visit those websites for some ideas [url="http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/"]http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/[/url] [url="http://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/ProjandProd.html"]http://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/ProjandProd.html[/url] [url="http://www.tonepad.com/projects.asp?projectType=fx"]http://www.tonepad.com/projects.asp?projectType=fx[/url] [url="http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/component/option,com_frontpage/Itemid,1/"]http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/compon...tpage/Itemid,1/[/url] [url="http://freestompboxes.org/index.php?sid=827fc59a9f9a3fb5157f15392712416e"]http://freestompboxes.org/index.php?sid=82...57f15392712416e[/url] Visit those websites for parts [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/"]http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/[/url] [url="http://www.musikding.de/"]http://www.musikding.de/[/url] [url="http://www.banzaimusic.com/"]http://www.banzaimusic.com/[/url] [url="http://www.smallbearelec.com/StoreFront.bok"]http://www.smallbearelec.com/StoreFront.bok[/url] ( Make the order worth postage, I've done 2 orders and haven't been stung by customs because the value on the invoice is put lower so it goes through no problem and they have some parts that are almost impossible to find in Europe ) Once you know what you want to do then go buy parts and have hours of fun, it will be frustrating but in the end worth it. Cheers Jack

Yeah I've been inhaling too much lead It's a great little effect, so simple with just 2 pots, I love simple stuff that sounds great and I can't stop playing through it

Cheers for all the replies guys! I'm still contemplating over the idea tbh! I've tried all the cabs I wanted and funnily enough the best of the lot was Aguilar GS412 which wasn't on my list but I've had a go and boy what a cab this is! I really feel that it would intimidate almost everyone by it's sheer volume! The only thing is the weight of the thing so I'm thinking 2x GS212 for the portability! It's about 150 quid more than the 412! I still have to sell my Ibanez BTB and my Compact and then save a bit to get there but I will get there! God I'm GASing over that aggie:D

yeah it was a learning step for me! There was signal but the wiper wasn't making anything, I've put the new one and presto! I'm especially happy knowing that on tonepad it's considered very advanced so I'm not that scared of other projects now! I still have the envelope filter and the delay to do!

Had a long play with it now and the sound is very very good, very clear across all the range and when on full whack it changes into amazing vibratto. I'm well pleased with it and can really recommend this for anyone wanting a good clean chorus, with all the mods that are available it can be really good competitor for some of the mass market units but at a fraction of the cost!

It's working now Lovely sound The trimpot was f*cked so I've replaced it and it works like a dream!