JackLondon

I'm using those plastic standoffs that are dirt cheap but do the trick! I have some metal ones in case a pcb can be grounded through enclosure!

Yeah those LED bezel are really cool, I know Max (Silent Fly) puts very nice ones on his boxes and yes it is surprising that other manufacturers don't put them on considering that they are only about 50p! Good luck with the decals and if you need any help give me a shout Cheers Jack

[quote name='mancunianfox' post='778907' date='Mar 18 2010, 05:51 PM']How do you do those labels Jack, they look all kinds of awesome![/quote] Fairly simple yet time consuming This is how I do it : 1. Make a design wth the positions of all the knobs, switches, LED etc. I do it on MS Word and it works fine, I use a picture as a background, then add all the text on top and then position the hardware. 2. Print off the design, cut out, stick it to the box using masking tape and put all the hardware where it should be on top of the sheet to see how much space I'll have, if a pot or a switch needs moving I go back to the design, re-do it and then print it off again. 3. If the design is good I then punch the dots where the center of everything is to make the drilling easy, drill the holes and put the design on the box again, look under the light to see if the holes are centered. At this point it's also very good to know what sort of clear coat you'll be using, if it's water based that's fine, if it isn't then every area of the decal that is white will be transparent. If you want whie you can use water based clear coat or paint the top of the box white. 4. If all of the above is done I then print off the decal on this paper : [url="http://www.inkandmedialtd.co.uk/acatalog/Inkjet_Waterslide_Decal_Paper.html"]http://www.inkandmedialtd.co.uk/acatalog/I...ecal_Paper.html[/url] you are best off printing a couple in one go, if you're clever you can fit 3 x bb and 2 x b decal on one sheet so you can have 40 labels for £14, not bad. 5. Let the decal dry for about 1 hour and cut it out using a very sharp blade. 5a. At this point you have to decide how intense you want the colours to be, if you want them as they apper on the label straight from the print I suggest painting the top of the box white ( 1 coat is enough ) because if the box is dark the colours will darken once the decal is dry. 6. Wash the box thoroughly with washing up liquid and immediately dry with paper towels, avoid touch the box with your fingers ( they are greasy ) 7. Put the decal in to a bowl of water, leave it for 1 minute, pick it out and apply to the box, don't rush as they are easy to rip. Whilst the decal is wet you can move it about to give you perfect fit but be quick. Once you have a perfect position use a credit card to get rid of all air bubbles so it's nice and flat. Leave the decal to dry on the box overnight, if you have some paper not sticking on the very edge of the label don't worry it will after next step. 8. Now it's time to apply clear coat and I strongly recommend doing it to protect the decal. First of all put on your face mask, this stuff smells like mad and if you're doing it indoors open all available windows to allow proper ventilation. I use either water based or normal chemical clear coat. I have put 3 coats on each box with 2 day gaps between coats ( It's not paint and it doesn't dry so quickly ) and leave it for 7 days after the last coat, if you use chemical based clear coat then I would recommend leaving it for good 12-14 days as this stuff takes ages to dry even in very warm conditions. Try to stay away from the box, I know it will be tempting to touch it and it will feel very dry to your hand but trust me it isn't, at this moment patience is a must and if you don't have anything to do go and play on yer bass!!!!! [color="#FF0000"]Important[/color] If you're using a white box, be very careful with your clear coat as it might dry tobacco yellow if you're not careful enough. do very thin coats, not heavy and keep the box away from sources of heat, normal room temperature is fine. 9. Once it's dry I wait until the last possible moment to touch the box, I get everything ready, put the sockets, switches and LEDs in and then use a very soft camping mat that you can buy in poundland for a quid, works a treat and protects the box while you're moving it around during assembly. 10. If you so far haven't swore gazzilion of times, had to re-do the whole thing or made a very small chip then give yourself a pat on the back because you were miles better than me. Alternatively if you can't be bothered then feel free to PM me and I might do it for you if your quick enough Simples Cheers Jack

Right, I haven't been here a long time, 2 Pedals are done : First off we have a Tycobrahe Octavia Here's the beggining of the cable spaghetti : [attachment=45030:H_Inside.JPG] Here we have everything soldered and ready to fire up : [attachment=45031:H_Finished.JPG] The front of the box, don't comment on the name as it was not my idea [attachment=45033:H_Front.JPG] It sounds very nice and can go from slightly overdriven to full on fuzz sound, the second footswitch is to switch the octave on/off The second pedal is a simple looper, I won't bore you with the insides as everyone knows there's nothing exciting going on in there [attachment=45036:L_Finished.JPG] Tomorrow we have a booster pedal and possibly another fuzz. Stay tuned

just use cable ties! the extra length might come handy if your board expadns in the future!

Just buy some of these [url="http://www.johnnyshredfreak.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=11&zenid=a9bdb9b10f03f041aeeb4207ad005460"]http://www.johnnyshredfreak.com/store/inde...eeb4207ad005460[/url]

I have the schematic for the original 1967 version on Moog Low Pass filter, maybe you can get someone to build it for you ? Looks like max of £50 worth of parts. If you want the schematic you will have to give me one of your Aggies Fair deal me thinks

yes from retailers based in England but for residents of UK which includes scottish residents

[quote name='Alastair' post='778101' date='Mar 17 2010, 10:57 PM']What about someone who normally lives in scotland but is currently living in London for 5/6 months working I wonder...[/quote] It is written that you must be a permanent UK resident and last time I've chcecked Scotland was part of the UK

I think it was the fact that Alex was believing in the product and they were few who didn't like it so had the urge to express themself in a not very polite way! I like Alex because he knows what he's talking about and his many suggestions have helped me understand the fundamentals of getting a better tone, yes he was sometimes talking in a language that only engineers understand but at least he knew what he was talking about! Barefaced cabs are excellent, yes they are not the only cabs in the world and not the best ones either but for the money they do provide loads of sound for such a small package! I'm very happy about mine and would recommend a Compact to anyone!

Stay away! Plenty of good amps for sale here

Will do, I'll get back to you!

Don't know if people know what it is but I can ask here [url="http://www.collage-arts.org/"]http://www.collage-arts.org/[/url]! It's about 5 min walk from tube and train station and has loads of parking spaces!

[quote name='1976fenderhead' post='768754' date='Mar 9 2010, 02:15 AM']I have a true bypass EBS pedal and an older non-true-bypass model of the same brand. The older models' LED is red when on and off, but in the newer models the LED is red when on but white (transparent) when off. What's up with that? All my pedals have red LEDs except the T-Rex Bass Juice which has 2 super bright white LEDs that are a pain in the ass live because they're so blinding on a dark stage...[/quote] You have a super bright Red LED, they are clear when off!

pic of the board with wiring?

Let me know how you get on Luke, I'm still waiting for my parts that should arrive any day! On another note does anyone know where I can find a good pcb layout or vero layout for 3-5 band eq and a passive DI box?

Have you looked at build reports on tonepad? Lots of people seem to have different issues!

[quote name='matski' post='765007' date='Mar 5 2010, 12:19 PM']Now, call me pedantic but I don't call some tiny 1 x 10 '100w' Hartke combo really up to the job... Especially as the material I played required the use of 5-string bass droptuned to low A![/quote] I would call it very reasonable for Poland! I played countless gigs without amps, or with a 15W Laboga combo! Trust me Hartke is god send

Anyone played this bad boy ? [url="http://www.soundsliveshop.com/p/Gallien-Krueger_Fusion_1050_Bass_Head/GK-FUSION-1050"]http://www.soundsliveshop.com/p/Gallien-Kr.../GK-FUSION-1050[/url] Major GAS!

Well if you're connecting your amp to the back of your tuner it's not going to work! You have 2 options. 1. Connect your bass to the front input on the Dtr and then connect the back output from dtr to input on your ampeg. 1. Connect your bass to ampeg and connect tuner out from your ampeg to input on the dtr

[quote name='dudewheresmybass' post='762446' date='Mar 3 2010, 12:32 AM']this is pretty much what i'm after. how would i supply the signal to the unit without losing my signal totally? i know i' said i'm thinking of a 'side chain' but how could i build that?[/quote] What about this ? [attachment=43936:IMG_0140.JPG] It uses a microphone to send signal through the circuit, has a filter for low and high pass and 2 potentiometers to adjust the sensitivity.

[quote name='mancunianfox' post='762252' date='Mar 2 2010, 09:01 PM']@Jack I've made a buffer for the looper already and it works great. The problem I am having is that fuzz face type circuits work best going straight from the instrument. If there is an active circuit or a buffer before it they sound really crappy. That is why pedals like the Woolly Mammoth are notoriously bad with active basses. When I put it through the buffered effect loop the fuzz face sounds different because of the change of impedance. If I use my cheapo Behringer FZ-2 clone or my Clone Theory the looper works great because of the input and output buffers built into those circuits.[/quote] Hmmm, interesting. I think I read somewhere on here about buffers and they were supposed to get rid of the problems with Fuzz pedals and active basses but your experience seems different! TBH I never used fuzz with my basses so I wouldn't know! How about a fuzz pedal with a loop?

Maybe something like this [url="http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p2193_The-Buffer---Buffer-kit.html"]http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/i...Buffer-kit.html[/url] ! I was thinking about possibly putting one in a fuzz pedal or even as a seperate box! It's not expensive as well and you can a pcb for €4 so not bad!

[quote name='umph' post='761707' date='Mar 2 2010, 12:22 PM']i think the GGG one will be easier to set up if you only want 9v and both should have similar noise levels. Personally if i was doing my own pedal power supply i'd go alot more overkill and completely destroy the noise![/quote] Can you please elaborate ?