warwickhunt

Not that it matters at this kind of power but... Is it 2x900watts into 4ohms each side (ie you can drive a pair of 4ohm cabs @ 900watts each), it wouldn't be bridgeable to 1800w @ 4ohms?

Just taken delivery of a 1990 Warwick Streamer Stage I fretless with Maple neck (wenge stringers) and a (factory) lined ebony board. I'm about to go and open it up to see what the preamp is as it has Barts (fairly certain they are original) and a 3 band EQ with stacked vol/pan in the traditional Warwick pan pot position... very unWarwick. Very mellow toned.

Not mint but they are genuine Chrysler items and if you are getting them for free what do you want Took them off a Cruiser we (briefly) had and I had to loosen the allen bolts as we didn't have the lock key, they'll go back on the same way. Collect or pay for the postage and they are yours.

[quote name='JPJ' post='218798' date='Jun 14 2008, 12:28 PM']20kgs ffs. Cheers WoT, I didn't have gas until I read this thread but now I bloody do! Never thought you'd move away from the Schroeder mind. [b]We should probably A/B your real Schroeder with my Eminence equipped clone[/b]. Now my speakers are played in, its probably the creamiest but well defined cab I've ever heard and I still haven't figured out how to wire in the horn yet?[/quote] Oh I feel a bit of a bash in the air... especially as I have the Aggie 1x12s

Nice review. I've always fancied trying one of these but as you say, as rare as a rare thing. Having owned a Demeter preamp (which I dropped in a Warwick) in the past I also envy you that, they are a great pre with loads of headroom and no extraneous noise (though mine looked a lot less complex that yours). I have to disagree with one aspect of your review... I think that headstock is great and an aspect of the bass that should be saluted not passed over swiftly

Problem with getting settings off other people is that it is majorly dependent on your playing style and even your rig. If you really dig in and beat down on the string as you pluck/pick it then you may need to drop it a bit lower, if you've got a light touch then you can have them a fair bit closer. I personaly like my pups to be as close to the string as possible so that my fingers almost come to rest on the pup below when I strike the string.

[quote name='Bigwan' post='218121' date='Jun 13 2008, 09:47 AM']I've had an Ashdown 1x10 ABM combo for a long time. The cabs that you use make a BIG difference. I found pretty much my perfect sound last night with the combo running into an Aguilar 1x12. Growly, punchy and defined using my Lakland JO. I was so happy with that combination (which I hadn't used before since the Aggie cab is fairly new to me) that I'm seriously considering selling off my (also recently acquired) Thunderfunk and getting myself a chrome rackmount EVO III...[/quote] Please tell me the Thunderfunk is one of the new 'big' ones

Just watched the BP video review. Yep that sounds like a bass string to me I'm not trying to be negative and p*ss on their efforts but slapping a set on a bass and playing them like that was as much use as a chocolate fireguard! I have no idea what that bass/amp would sound like with an alternative string but it sounded exactly like I'd expect any string to sound. I realise they can't video every bass manufacturer with every combination of strings so that we can get a comparison but absolutely no one could put there hand on their heart and say that the soundclip gives them an idea of how that 'string' sounds. The least they could have done (and probably the most actually) is to put a fresh set of commonly available strings on a bass (that Lakkie would do, or any bass for that matter), recorded it then whipped them off and without changing anything else played the same thing again with the DR's on. I realise the reviewer could simply change his technique and make it sound different but in the interests of an honest review we'll assume that he played the same. Hey presto I can now hear the difference between the DR and at least one other type/make of string. ... or is it just me?

$30 in the States... that'll be £30+ in the UK then

Come round and try my 2x Aggie 1x12s see what they do for you; I also know of a pair of Berg HS 2x10s possibly going spare (not local though). Better still isn't it time we got a bunch of cabs and amps together again?

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='216758' date='Jun 11 2008, 12:13 PM']There are some demo videos on Youtube I've seen. The design intent seems to be to recreate a system that has a very full dynamic range - something that Hellborg has always pursued in his signature gear since getting into acoustic bass guitars. The marketing seems to be promoting something akin to a hi-fi system. Hmmm. Personally, I don't think I need that level of dynamic range in my music and certainly find it difficult to understand where my money would be going if I bought the amp system. The stage is a very crude listening environment, I think that all the refinements on offer here would probably be completely lost unless I was doing a solo acoustic gig.[/quote] +1 That's why I asked about musical styles. I'm not saying that the Hellborg system couldn't do rock/funk/etc but it was the design intent to get all of the nuances out of Hellborgs playing/technique/instrument. Bumping an' grinding away with a pub band probably wouldn't get you much benefit from all of that exquisite design and quality components. An amp cab retailing at 50% of the price (or less) would probably achieve about the same desired affect.

What kind of music do you play and are you going to be relying on the Hellborg backline to be your FOH sound or will they be stage monitors with PA taking a line from your preamp?

[quote name='josh3184' post='216216' date='Jun 10 2008, 02:57 PM']as i recall warwicks only have fretboard markers as a customshop option[/quote] Streamer Stage II has the yin/yan as standard... but back to the original question. I have no idea what my Yin/Yan markers look like as I only ever see the side dots, I'm sure they look nice to the audience though

But Dood, you is hugging Jeff Ament not Glenn Hughes... you must have been wasted

Believe it or not I have Leatherman PST tools listed on a Buy It Now for £17 whilst simultaneously listing an identical item auction style... the auction item was bid and won @ £21! OK that is one person that could have saved a few quid if they had searched my items but I also sold another identical item minutes later to the 2nd highest bidder via a 2nd chance offer. Hmmm am I complaining

[quote name='Buzz' post='214835' date='Jun 8 2008, 12:27 PM']Just to clear something up for everyone, the wizards are passive pups no?. One output wire (white) and one wire to ground (black). All this coil tapping in a mute point as fair as they are concerned as they follow the standard layout like the majority of passive singlecoil style pups on the market.[/quote] Agreed! However be aware that the whole white/output & black/ground may well be turned on it's head if Andy didn't use that config. I purchased a pair of pups off Andy and they had red/green wiring, Andy put me right with a simple phonecall and even talked me through the soldering job as to what went where to get it working with my active EQ. There are a whole bunch of guys on here with the same pup, why not look on the review thread for the Wizard pups and contact one of those guys?

[quote name='SteveO' post='214821' date='Jun 8 2008, 12:09 PM']Some humbuckers have a centre tap on the coil, which basically means they have an extra 3rd wire joining the coil at the halfway point. with a bit of creative wiring you can choose between using the pickup as a humbucker or as a single coil pickup, or a blend of the two. In your case it sounds like the original didn't have this centre tap and the new one does. You have a choice, you can ignore the third wire and use it as a direct replacement for your original or (and this is the option I would choose) you can rewire to give yourself the extra range of tones of having an additional single coil for free. If you just wanna replace then I would guess that the centre tap is the white one, but you can test by measuring the resistance between any two wires. the resistance between the centre tap and either of the other two will be lowest of all other combinations. I suppose the easiest way would be to find a specsheet on the web. Disconnect this (don't cut it off at the pickup end, just use a bit of insulation tape on the free end to leave it there in case of mistakes or if you wanna use it later) wire the remaining two wires as your original and bob's your mothers brother. (now, you may get the phasing problems. If so, reverse wires and job done) OK then, lets look at option 2 The original pickup had one wire to the pot, where did the other go, is it running to ground on the jack or do you have a preamp. I take it you've put the 3rd wire of the new pickup to the same point... I suspect that you're getting the phasing problems described in the above posts, but because of the way you have it wired you're only getting partial cancellation from one half of the humbucker, and swapping the wires has just given you partial cancellation from the other half of the humbucker instead. Tell you what, if you can draw a diagram of the current wiring I should be able to see where the problem is and make recommendations. (a photo would be useful as well)[/quote] I'm fairly certain that the Wizard pup won't be a HB and only has 2 wires not 3. Have you tried to speak to Andy yet?