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Obrienp

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Everything posted by Obrienp

  1. Obrienp
    I did think of a push/pull with a 0.047 and a 0.1 selection but I think I might struggle to get a decent sized push/pull into the body. The OEM push/pull on the volume, which does the series/parallel switching, has to be the smallest I have ever seen!
  2. Obrienp
    Nice! I did the series/single/parallel switch wiring too. Made the bass very versatile. I moved it on in the end because of the dreadful neck dive, even with a wide grippy strap. I guess lightweight machine heads would have helped but by that stage I had decided not to throw any more money at it. Bet yours sounds good with that Ibanez pickup!
  3. Obrienp
    To top and tale this. The varitone arrived a little while back but isn’t in my Starfire. I couldn’t get it into the body, even with the treble side pickup removed. It’s just too big. ☹️ I’m wondering what to do with the varitone. I think it may end up in my project 32” P bass, which is a touch on the bright side but that’s another story. I am left with not being very happy with the standard tone pot/capacitor on the Starfire. I think it should really give a deeper cut to fit the vibe of the instrument. I suspect it may be a 500k/0.022 combo. I think a 250K/0.047 combination would be better. I think I can fit a full size CTS or Alpha pot through the f-hole as long as I don’t have the Orange Drop cap sticking out too far from the base of the pot 🤞. I’m still psyching myself up to attempting it after the disappointment of not being able to fit the varitone.
  4. Obrienp
    I have a Thomann deluxe guitar gig bag for my Sire fretless shorty. It was recommended as a “perfect fit” on their website when I bought the bass and it is. There is a little bit of room spare above the headstock and plenty of room around the body, plus 25mm padding. Not bad for a tadge over £40. It is much better designed than the Fender SS gig bags that I have used previously. They don’t have any reinforcement at the bottom of the bag, so it doesn’t take long for the strap button to split the seam.
  5. Obrienp
    😀🤣 Do they throw in a truss with every bass?
  6. Obrienp
    The first link above says it weighs 5 Kg! Streuth!
  7. Obrienp
    Every P/J I’ve ever had and every replacement P/J pickup set (several different brands) has suffered from the Jazz having less output than the P. It would be great if someone does have an easy wiring fix for it but I’m not hopeful. At one stage I did think of doing a mix and match based on the output of pickups; I.E. seek out a really powerful Jazz and a less powerful P pickup but I am sure I read somewhere that it doesn’t necessarily produce the result you expect. Also a really powerful Jazz pickup is likely to produce a different tone to the standard. That may or may not work for what you are after. I decided in the end that it didn’t really matter for me, as I only use the Jazz pickup to blend in a bit of upper mids. I never solo it. I’m no Jacko! You might have different requirements of course. Probably irrelevant but one wiring trick I have used, is a push/pull to put both pickups on but in series. It sounds massive!
  8. Obrienp
    Just chuck the original neck and put a pattern maple Jazz neck on. Job done. 😀
  9. Obrienp
    Yes, QC is a bit dodgy but it makes an excellent modding platform. With a little bit of work (shielding, etc) you can get a decent bass. Just ignore the jazz pickup, it’s pretty weak and doesn’t add much, so not a priority for replacement IMO (if I remember correctly it’s not full size Jazz bridge size either, so difficult to find a direct replacement). The chunkyness is what made me move mine on but would probably suit the OP well. They do vary a bit in weight also: mine was a boat anchor but I’ve seen other reports of examples that weighed less than 8lbs.
  10. Obrienp
    Interesting looking bass. Wonder what the bridge string spacing is? It looks like 19mm, given the standard parts bin type bridge. The only let down for me is the slab body with no contouring (as far as I can tell from the pics). Reasonable price point though.
  11. Obrienp
    @ead I have hand issues too (after rugby and motorcycle accidents) but tend to go for the Jazz shape necks (narrow and deep-ish). Huge generalisation but a lot of shorties do tend to have quite narrow necks. There are exceptions around but I don’t think many fit your price/weight criteria. If you can find them used a JMJ Mustang might be a good one as it has a chunkier neck. The Reverend Watt Plower also but both are a bit pricey. I think there are other chunkier neck Mustangs and I am sure others can advise. The new Vintage Callan seems to have a fairly wide nut and it’s quite keenly priced.
  12. Obrienp
    I wish I needed this. It such a good price and I’m surprised it’s still here! GLWTS.
  13. Obrienp
    I bought a 32” Jazz neck off eBay recently, direct from China. It worked out much better than I had expected. Block inlays and binding. Frets were all good. The nut needed a little work. The heel was actually a little wider than Fender standard, so I needed to ease the neck pocket of the body I was putting it on. Also the profile was more C than D but that might suit some folks. It wasn’t sealed but was pretty well sanded, so it only needed a little prep before applying the finish. The supplier’s name was “car-mall” on eBay. It only cost about £65 all in and took about a month to arrive. Here it is in action.
  14. Obrienp
    Good luck coming to a decision. Let us see it when you’ve got it.
  15. Obrienp
    Matter of interest: did you find what you were looking for?
  16. Obrienp
    Just to finish the story off, Andertons have issued me the full refund. The last comms I had from them said that their tech department was going to see if they could fix the noise problem (presumably with the last returned cab). I haven’t heard anything further, so I assume they couldn’t fix it. Bit of an indictment of Positive Grid I feel. Anyway good on Andertons and I have to say I was impressed with their after sales support.
  17. Obrienp
    I think I may have my answer to my noob question, as the C24 has already arrived, which is amazing: less than 24 hours from placing my order. A nice little unit. Very nicely made. You wouldn’t know these are a small production item. I have had a brief play with the unit, putting it after a Battalion preamp, before my power amp and then into the LFSys Monza. I tried a P Bass (32” scale) with Tone Rider pickup and then a Guild Starfire 1 (the p pickup one) tuned down a semitone. Setting the HPF just under 40 Hz and the LPF a bit over 1KHz is interesting. It has an apparent reduction in volume, which is cured by the boost control. I’m still not sure whether I like the HPF effect but it does seem to make cabinet response clearer. The LPF is certainly doing something to get rid of the brittle overtones, at the risk of making it all sound a bit muffled. It does get rid of the huge transition I was experiencing on the Guild between the A and D strings. With the LPF engaged, I don’t feel that the top two strings are competing as much with the guitars. How that will affect the bass in the mix I’m not sure. Obviously more experimentation is needed. Also the Monza is known for having a very tight bass response already, so perhaps the HPF is having less effect at the lower end. I am guessing the HPF/LPF combination may do more for the BF Two10 that can sound pretty muddy on occasions. Also I haven’t tried my amps yet, or any effects beyond compression and drive (from the Battalion).
  18. Obrienp
    I was thinking of the LPF in the C24.
  19. Obrienp
    Actually your first point was very much on my mind. Both my main gigging amps are not really driving my LFSys Monza anywhere near its max of 600 watts into 8 ohms. Now as it happens 300 watts is probably more than enough for any of my gigs but I don’t really like the idea (or the sound) of these amps flat out. I could do with more clean headroom from the amps (no problem with the cab). If the HPF avoids me having to shell out on an amp that can get closer to 600 watts @ 8 ohms, all the better. Its sounds like some experimentation, on placement in the signal chain, is going to have to take place.
  20. Obrienp
    Having tried to wade through most of this thread, I have convinced myself that it is worth ordering a HPF/LPF pedal. I’ve gone for a Sine Effect C24 (https://sineeffect.com/C24-High-Low-Pass-filter-pedal-p595346070), which seems reasonable at around £137 with postage and was available immediately. TBH, more than I have paid for a pedal in a long time but none of the usual online sources seem to carry these kinds of pedals and this is UK made. Anybody got any experience of them? I am hoping it will come with some instructions/recommendations for placement in the signal chain, as views are very mixed on this thread. My current thoughts, for what they are worth, are that it depends on what I am using. I’m thinking that when I use the my Flyrig V 2 into a power amp/desk the C24 should be after the Flyrig. Using the Mark Bass LM111 into either a LFSys Monza, or BF Two10 S: after the tuner pedal but before any other effects pedals I might use (chorus, overdrive, compressor, envelope filter). The quandary comes when considering my Blackstar U700 with the aforementioned cabs. The U700 has a bunch of built in affects, plus preamp and power amp voices. I am thinking the C24 probably needs to go into the effects loop so it is after all the above because they might be adding a whole load of unnecessary frequencies into the signal. Its probably quite clear from the above that I haven’t really got my head round this, so any advice or views would be welcome. Final noob question: will the low pass filter act like an attenuator on the LFSys Monza’s compression driver? It’s great having FRFR but sometimes I also want to dial in a bit more of a vintage feel. Both the U700 and the LM 111 are quite good at providing that old school tone when you want it but I sometimes get some additional harsh/brittle artefacts that come through the compression driver. It would be nice to be able to prevent that getting through.
  21. Obrienp
    Thanks. I’ll be able to sleep tonight 😀. As an aside, I wish there was an after market bass bridge that came with string mutes but I guess it would make manufacturing costs too high and it would have a small market. It would beat messing around with bits of foam, or fret wraps.
  22. Obrienp
    I’m sorry, it must be my obsession with detail but I have to ask what that second row of small cross head screws is for? How many screws does it take to hold a bridge plate on? There already seem to be 5 large cross head screws holding it on.
  23. Obrienp
    Best and worst so far: Best: LFSys Monza, such an amazing cab. Read the reviews on here. I haven’t seen a bad one yet. Worst: Positive Grid Spark Cab. On paper sounds like a great enhancer for your Spark 40, or other Spark amp, or even a low powered multi-instrument active FRFR cab, for not much cash compared to other offerings on the market. In reality it turned out to be very noisy on idle and through the DI out. Such a shame because the bass tone was pretty good through it and it worked well for acoustic and electric guitar as well. I sent the first one back and ended up returning its replacement. I’m still waiting for the refund.
  24. Obrienp
    Tony Edwards Guitars does rewinds: https://tonyedwardsguitars.co.uk.
  25. Obrienp
    In the Far East I should imagine at this price.
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