Bassassin

If it's got body binding I'm guessing it's a Roadstar II, maybe like this: [url="http://www.ibanez.co.jp/anniversary/84/3.jpg"]http://www.ibanez.co.jp/anniversary/84/3.jpg[/url] Or maybe the ones at the bottom of this page: [url="http://www.ibanez.co.jp/anniversary/102/2.jpg"]http://www.ibanez.co.jp/anniversary/102/2.jpg[/url] If it's in good nick £220 is probably not unreasonable - even better if they'll haggle! 80s Ibanez probably represent the pinnacle of affordable, original JapCrap & remember these were built by Fujigen Gakki, who at the same time were producing MIJ Fenders. Very good stuff. Jon.

You might want to have a close look at your Ibanez, particularly the serial number. If it starts with a "C", it was made by Cort. Jon.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='524237' date='Jun 25 2009, 11:10 PM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Collectors-1960s-70s-K-Bass-Guitar_W0QQitemZ180373648604QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item29ff1b74dc&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A10|66%3A2|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50"]K[/url][/quote] J.

Just finished it, I'll get it in the post to Cetera, just as soon as I get his details. J.

The guy reckons he's had it from new, kept it for decades & barely touched it - I'm prepared to accept that, having done the same thing myself with an Ibby Soundgear fretless: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=23341"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=23341[/url] As has been mentioned the iffy burst is not only very common but accurate to the original. There are loads of 80s Tokai catalogues [url="http://www.tokairegistry.com/tokai-info/tokai-catalogs.html"]here[/url] and the Jaco-alike appears in most of them. The catalogue pics are poor quality so you can't make out much detail for comparison - but really I think the only thing that's at all suspicious is the shinyness of it. However, me & my old SR800FL exist as living proof some people just can't do fretless! J.

[quote name='guzzibass' post='522851' date='Jun 24 2009, 07:18 PM']It's ok - no-one will come after you with a big stick - ready? G-U-I-T-A-R got it? Guitar!! There --- thats better. [/quote] No use, if you spell it like that it doesn't say "git". J.

Disappointing - I hoped it would be this one: Including the parrot. Jon.

I beat myself up regularly for not grabbing the one I spotted on the Bay a year or so ago. £95 BIN. Jon.

I picked up a Columbus J a few years ago - it was OK but not fantastic, the body was ply, neck was pretty decent (but I remember it being a bit chunky), hardware was functional. As for the origin of Columbus, it's speculative. It was a UK importer brand so it's unlikely they sourced everything from the same factory, although their low-end LP copies (the ubiquitous black ones) have been 99% ID'd as Maya/Rokkomann. Variable quality - I've had 5 over the years; that Jazz, an SG (my first-ever g*it*r), two black LPs and a Strat. The best one was the SG, nice solid mahog body, real MOP inlays, green-button Kluson copy tuners - wish I hadn't killed it. I still have the Strat, although it's currently on The Bay - it's a later Columbus Mk2 and has no identifying marks - I'd say it's either Korean or one of the more obscure Jap factories like Moridaira. Either way it's not a bad little g*it*r at all. J.

Well - that's a turn up for the book. Whatever that means: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/El-Maya-Bass-guitar-INCREDIBLY-RARE-80s-Japan-fabulous_W0QQitemZ120439151149"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/El-Maya-Bass-guitar-...emZ120439151149[/url] I should add - this isn't Deaver's, just a really weird coincidence. This is only the second one of these I've ever seen! J.

[quote name='deaver' post='522116' date='Jun 23 2009, 10:15 PM']I think with p&p it bottomed out about £30 more in the end didn't it? Could be wrong my maths seems to have been a little awry of late El J[/quote] Maybe... Same thing happened with a lovely Ibby ATK I spotted about 18 months ago, £95 BIN - or £250 to me a year later! J.

Sorry to wee on anyone's fireworks here but WRM is Wild Rose Music, who were an Ebay cheapo importer/reseller from a few years ago. The bass in question is a copy of a [url="http://vesterfansite.nl/data/storage/attachments/b6c447077499aef765a57f0523698b6c.JPG"]Vester Argus[/url] - WRM sold other basses "inspired" by obscure oriental designs, including a green-stained wooden Tokai Talbo knockoff. There's no reason to believe this ain't a decent bass - but it's not a custom instrument so don't go paying custom prices! These were probably not much more than a ton when new. Jon

[quote name='BigRedX' post='520070' date='Jun 21 2009, 05:09 PM']Never understood the fascination for the covers on Fenders. Was there a practical reason for the pickup covers? I know that the bridge cover held a foam string damper, but I can't see any possible use for the cover over the pickup.[/quote] As I understand it, it's a handrest. In conjunction with the finger-rest on the "wrong" side, the intent was that you rest the edge of your palm on the cover, anchor your fingers on the rest & pluck with your thumb! I like the look of them but can't easily play with them in place - I either need to use the top of the pup as a thumbrest, or if I'm using a plectrum, rest the edge of my palm just behind the saddles. Jon.

It's just a matter of personal taste, I used light stings (95-35) for years. Players like Geddy Lee & Mark King are known for using very light gauges & it's not done their "credibility" any harm! I'd recommend experimenting with a few different sets & find what feels best for you - never mind what anyone else thinks. Personally I found myself favouring slightly heavier gauges when I started working on my fingerstyle, having been a pick player for years, & these days I use very boring, middle-of-the road 105-45 sets - I prefer the higher tension because I'm a bit heavy-handed. Light strings do tend to be a bit thinner tonally, but I never found it was anything a bit of judicious EQing wouldn't compensate for. Jon.

Probably someone made 'em an offer they couldn't refuse. Let's just hope they didn't sell it for £50! J.

Hide-the-ply bursts will usually black right over the contours as well as the edges. That said, something don't look right about this. Maybe the burst's a refin? Jon.

Do like. Despite the mods it's sort of cool to see that it still has the original little JapCrap tuners. Actually re-reading it he's not saying it's been refinished - he says that if a Shergold [i]doesn't[/i] have finish cracking, then it's a refin - and this one does. I would like to get one of these someday. Unfortunately, not today! Jon.

Sounds good! Be sure & post some pics when it's all done. Hipshot is the way to go, I think, I love the one on my Kasuga (apart from the weight!) and I'm looking for a black aluminium one for my Frankenbugger - the standard one on it has lifted visibly since I fitted it. J.

That Hondo's looking good for a bass from the 1940s! - Apart from the terminal tail-lift... Could be a decent bargain project though. J.

Lightly sand the bits you're going to spray to give the new paint a "key" otherwise it'll just rub off - there's no need to strip the body though. If you're going to use fluorescents (or any other bright colour), you will have to undercoat first. Fluorescent colours have to have a white base coat. I'd also recommend lacquering over whatever finish you go for once it's sprayed, this will make it last longer & be more resilient. Rattlecan lacquer can be expensive if you use Halfords or B&Q, but I've found Screwfix's own brand to be excellent at half the price: [url="http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21687/Paint/Spray-Paints/No-Nonsense-Acrylic-Varnish-Clear-400ml"]http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21687/Paint/...ish-Clear-400ml[/url] Bodger's tip: spray in thin coats as recommended, but instead of waiting for each coat to dry normally, borrow your wife/girlfriend/mum/sister's hairdryer & give the paint a warm waft for a few seconds - it accelerates evaporation & you can build up successive coats much more quickly this way. If you're lacquering & want a nice gloss I recommend T-Cut & lots of elbow grease to get rid of the "orange peel" & get a mirror finish. Make sure that you leave the paint a good while - a week or more, to properly "cure" before you do this. Jon.

Pack of lies. It's Ebay, innit? Jon.