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About Bassalarky

  • Birthday 16/04/1964

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    South Wales

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  1. What they said. Not much fun removing a nut that glued in solid....
  2. The one in my avatar pic is passive (wired parallel) and I think it sounds great.p It's not actually a MM bass, but very similar. I like simplicity so it has only a volume control, couldn't be happier with it.
  3. After touring for several years, keeping all the band gear running, I studied for a HND in Music Technology (electronics), got a job in a busy recording studio and started saying 'yes' when musos/customers/friends/hangers-on asked if I could fix their guitar/bass/keyboard/amp/microphone........Now I just do it for local people who are going to be nice to me cos I've grown into a grumpy old man in my semi-retirement 😁
  4. Local guy called me last Wednesday, he says "was playing outside at the weekend, it started raining and now my amp won't work. I need it for Friday can you look at it please". As it sounded like an emergency, I said bring it round this evening and cancelled my night out playing darts. He never showed up. I texted him the next day and the response was " oh, something else came up" ? ! ? ! Thanks, rant over.
  5. Just to answer the question above, you certainly can connect the pickup directly to the output jack - a quick and effective way to reassure yourself that the pickup is working. You can measure capacitors with suitable meter but to be accurate you would have to remove it from the circuit anyway (or at least one leg). I'd suggest wiring the pickup direct, if that works wire the vol pot, if that works add the tone pot. Hope you get it sorted.
  6. I normally go from 600 to 800, etc, up to 1500. Any coarser and I worry about sanding through... I guess it depends on how even the top coat is? I've done a few guitars but I'm certainly not an expert. ( I also find sanding quite therapeutic 😀)
  7. My suggestion would be Meguiar's cutting compound and polish. It's for cars but works great on poly, acrylic or resin.
  8. I'd suggest using a fine-toothed blade. I use an old table-top scroll saw and it works fine, I've also used a hand-held electric jigsaw with no problems. Also had good results from a small (1/4") template router bit for cutting out the pickup holes - I made the one you can see on my avatar pic. I finished the edges with and sanding block and sandpaper.
  9. Have used both X18 and Ui16 with great success. Both benefited from an additional router as others have mentioned. The X18 has open-source software so there are an increasing number of apps you can use for control. The Ui16 makes it a bit complicated to save your settings - and easy to zero everything accidentally while you're looking! X18 also has only XLR outputs for Aux sends which is a bit odd - worth a check that you have the right cables/adaptors for sending to your drummer's in-ears!
  10. Get to know the Tutors and absorb every ounce of knowledge and experience they have. That's why they're there. I taught Music Technology at Bristol College for many years and was always surprised how many students don't do this.
  11. There are some looper pedals that might work, eg a jamman? You can build a library of loops - can be sounds, riffs, whole backing tracks or just click - at a preset tempo. These can be selected and started/stopped with pedal switches and even have the tempo adjusted by a 'tap tempo' function. On the better ones you can also split sounds and click to L/R outputs. You could also use a 4-way interface from the keys setup and use mainstage to send click on dedicated output?
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