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Bridgehouse

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Bridgehouse

  1. To answer your original question tho - they only look right with those vintage bridges and threaded saddles...
  2. My band is Americana/rock/singer songwriter and it works just as well in that context too
  3. Not unless you really love the way they play
  4. You'd be even more disappointed with a real one. My 64 is 45mm nut, slim front to back, skinny vintage frets, 7.25 radius.. Sounds exactly like you expect/remember though.. quite quite exquisite. I do understand the neck dimensions don't suit everyone tho..
  5. So it's a 45mm with flats on it? Cor. Perfect for me I've had a quick go on a avri and was impressed..
  6. Big front to back or nut width? If the latter, then that's how they were in the early 60s! I love them
  7. Mine was a bare body when I got it.. it's sprayed in nitro
  8. ^ The master hath spoken
  9. @Al Krow - spot on with the Ampeg. Great clean tones - lovely Preamp. Drive is a shambles. Really want to try the VTDI and really liking the look of the Dave Hall one too. Have tried the subway DI - I liked it. I might try one. I want to try the EBS microbass too.. Great list tho
  10. Full range flat response - powered speaker cab
  11. It's an occupational hazard for me
  12. Had a festival this summer. Quick turnaround time to get on. Had all my stuff ready to go.. Plugged everything in - no sound. Nada. Nothing. 5 mins panicking and then... ..realised I'd plugged into a different amp that wasn't even mine. Oh, you didn't mean that sort of disaster tho huh?
  13. Would threaded saddles not give you enough adjustment? If not, then yes a Hipshot A or Kickass would do the trick and the mounting holes are the same. You would only be excommunicated if you wanted to swap the bridge out on an original 62 P bass
  14. When I did a 51P build I did mine... ...Surf Green!!! And I love it! It certainly gets noticed!
  15. There's lots of tutorials online about tru oil. Personally I don't do a huge amount of sanding in between coats - tru oil isn't like lacquer - the coats don't merge they stay seaparate and you can get funny lines and marks. It's also very easy to sand through. My favoured technique is to wet sand with the oil - it creates a slurry and fills in grain, holes etc. Once you have a good solid base on after a number of coats I would apply thin coats with no sanding in between. It builds up the finish. Very thin coats - less drying time - hardens well and with patience you can get a lacquer like gloss shine
  16. I just went FRFR to do exactly this. No separate head or cab to cart about - 14kg, plenty of volume, convenient wedge shape so it's a proper monitor, and you can even have a normal monitor feed in as well.
  17. I now find myself looking at lots of different Preamp DI pedals and thinking "wonder what that one would sound like?"
  18. A ball of lint free cotton is good, and strangely so are fingers... bit messy but good tho
  19. 8oz will do way more than 3 or 4 coats - you need to go for light coats anyway
  20. I have tried a set - kept them on a bass for a while. After settling I would say Chromes are about the same tonally (not at first tho!) I didn't like the feel of the Jim Dunlops as much tho - just didn't seem as slick
  21. That's the spirit
  22. I tried the DXR10 first and it sounded great. I was ready to get my money out. Then the guy said "Try the k10.2" Grrrr
  23. Romford will have them I bet..
  24. I had TIs on my 64 when I first got it. I never really felt that they were right, and tried Chromes as an experiment. At first the tension alarmed me too - I needed some real truss rod tweaking! However, some observations: - The tension means I can get the neck really rod straight - and with an action of 1.5mm across the board it plays really really well - It's more stable throughout the year - seems more balanced - The tension does let up a bit as they bed in. I use TIs on another bass, and some labellas on another so it isn't just me getting used to them - After 3 months they dull sufficiently to retain some chime but it's not dominant
  25. That's a nice grain and would be a shame to cover it up. The Crimson stains are very easy to apply and get a nice colour so you could go with an amber/orange/cherry and then tru oil over that If you build it up tru oil gives a nice hard finish and it will protect the wood.
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