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Bridgehouse

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Bridgehouse

  1. [quote name='mark76' timestamp='1509910967' post='3402561'] [url="https://www.thomannmusic.com/hoefner_hctcbsb_clubbass.htm"]Hofner HCT 500/2 Club £486 [/url] [url="https://www.thomannmusic.com/eastwood_guitars_classic_4_orange.htm"]Eastwood Guitars Classic £486[/url] [url="https://www.thomannmusic.com/danelectro_dead_on_58_longhorn_bass_bk.htm"]Danelectro Dead On 58 Longhorn £415[/url] [url="https://www.thomannmusic.com/epiphone_allen_woody_rumble_kat.htm"]Epiphone Allen Woody Rumble kat £419[/url] [url="https://www.thomannmusic.com/danelectro_dc_longscale_bass_bk.htm"]Danelectro DC Longscale Bass £444[/url] [url="https://www.thomannmusic.com/warwick_rb_starbass_4_gold_metallic.htm"]Warwick RB Starbass £461[/url] [url="https://www.thomannmusic.com/hoefner_verythin_bass_hct_500_8_dc.htm"]Hofner Verythin Bass HCT 500/8 £511[/url] Loads of choices in that range [/quote] There goes my weekend internet browsing Thanks for that list! I'll be back...
  2. [quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1509886118' post='3402291'] How does a split coil J work then? I always thought they were single coil. [/quote] These are just like a P - two separate coils, next to each other with a connecting wire. Same shape as a J, same magnet type etc. But essentially they are a J version of a normal humbucking P
  3. [quote name='mark76' timestamp='1509888985' post='3402322'] Some guidance as to your budget would be nice, @Bridgehouse [/quote] Not sure. I'd prefer the £500 ish sort of budget so I don't get jumpy when gigging rougher places - but more if more means actually a really big step up, if that makes sense. Keep the suggestions coming tho - got loads of research to do!
  4. [quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1509862911' post='3402105'] I've heard it said in this forum that stacked controls are more susceptible to hum than separate ones. I have no experience to confirm or deny this however. Is the cavity shielded? [/quote] Not at the moment, but it would be an easy fix to do so. Once I've wielded it in anger a bit I will see how the hum situation is. Mind you, the Dimarzio DP 126 set has a rather handy split coil J pickup..
  5. As the first of the two PJ builds I have on the go is coming to an end, I find myself wondering if I'm missing something in the collection for gigging/recording. The sig will give away the fact I'm pretty much firmly in the P camp (2x vintage P's, a MiM Classic Lacquer 50's, a '52 Partscaster, and soon-to-be 2x Partscaster PJ's) At the moment the '52 P gets gigged a lot - it has a SD Quarterpounder in it and it's great live. One of the PJ's is nearly done, and it has D'Addario DP126's in - also punchy. The MiM gets the odd gig out - but in reality the PJ's will take over from it. I record and write with the vintage P's but they don't get gigged. The thing that's starting to itch is maybe I should pass on the MiM Classic Lacquer and pick up a semi-acoustic of some description to give me a different sound. The band is americana/singer songwriter rocky/counting crows sort of sound, and some songs would really benefit from a semi-style thump. The violin body shape doesn't appeal, I tried one in a shop and it all just felt, well, wrong. The old Harmony H22's appeal - love that old 60's thump, but they are quite spendy and might be a bit too fragile for gigging.. perhaps I'm looking for a modern take on it, or something similar? Thoughts from the ensembled?
  6. Bit more progress made. Totally changed my mind on the controls. Went stack knob after a lot of too'ing and fro'ing. Don't really know why either, other than I just think it will be the most adaptable setup for live work. So. Pots in and Pickups in. All wired up. Plate on. It awaits some knobs (being delivered) and I need to finish the setup. Then, it's back to the relic..
  7. Good to see some 64 replica Partsocasters on the way
  8. [quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1509698629' post='3400894'] Hard to say since it's the only one I've played Mark - they don't grow i trees round here I'm afraid to say! I was pretty impressed with the '66 I played in Rudy's on honeymoon in NYC so probably any decent one of that kind of era... Money is the only (rather large) barrier... [/quote] Ain't that the truth! I played a few pre-CBS before getting mine and there was def. variance between them. Mostly it was tonal tho - the necks broadly felt pretty similar. You considered doing a parts build and having something which is pretty much a 64 spec? The two PJs I'm doing at the mo are exact copies of 64 necks - some well chosen parts and you'd get 80% of the way there...
  9. [quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1509568379' post='3400021'] Yup. Specifically a refinished 64 P bass belonging to a friend. He's owned it since '68. Chances of it ever being mine are, let's say, slim... [/quote] That specific 64 or do you think any 64 would do it for you?
  10. Bridge delivered today - so decided to fit it. Popped the strings on to check alignment too. It seems to be okay:
  11. Body and neck source is a tricky one - it's a contact I have from another forum, and he only sells to members over there. I have to say, sourcing good bodies and necks in the UK can be really tricky - especially if you want out of the ordinary..
  12. Don't worry - the Daphne Blue relic PJ will return - I reckon it will be ready for lacquer checking soon.. probably when I've finished this second PJ..!
  13. Put on a final Tru-Oil coat - so I reckon 8 in total, which was satin sheen enough, deep enough, but not too glossy. Neck was bolted on, and strap buttons fitted: Next stage will be Bridge, then wiring up once the bits arrive in the week (!) and then on to final fit out and adjust. Total build time will be 2 weeks I reckon (mostly due to Tru-Oil drying)
  14. Half a dozen relatively thin Tru-Oil coats in, and it's getting a nice sheen and depth to it:
  15. After 3 Tru-Oil coats, I trialled the pick guard (parchment) and the knob placement - decided to use Jazz knobs to make it a bit different. Now, for placement of the extra knob, I decided to bring it in towards the bridge a bit - and use that slot for blend (as I'll use that one the most) which should keep it out the way, but accessible. Here's the trial fit:
  16. For the neck, I'm also using Tru-Oil - I decided about 3 coats or so would be enough for suitable coating but retaining a subtle satin sheen. Here's 3 coats on and hardened, followed by the Gotoh machine heads: And from the front:
  17. Well, I've not posted in this one for a bit.. main reason being the nitro on the first one has been curing.. a lot (!) I want to lacquer check it before finishing, and you need to leave it for a good while to harden off, and it has been doing exactly this However, there is a second PJ to build.. and I've started this one. It's a far more rapid build... The second one is going to be my main gigging bass - the 64P and 74P are really home and recording warriors, and at the moment the majority of my gigging has been with the MiM Classic 50's Lacquer Precision, and my 52P build. However, I prefer rosewood, I prefer a 1.75" nut width, and I want something with a bit more variation for live playing - hence the pair of PJs. Once done, I will probably let the MiM Classic 50's Lacquer go to fill a semi-acoustic bass hole. On to the second one. Here's the starting point: - Simple build, quick, and easy. - Satin neck - Satin body finish (natural) - White Guard - Blend/Vol/Tone - Jack on the front (I'm wireless and prefer it there as I can see it!) - Standard Hardware, but a vintage style bridge with the threaded saddles as it lets me play with string spacing, important on the 1.75" nut width) Finish choice was True-Oil. Here's the first coat on the body:
  18. Pick guard trial fit done. Also added some strap buttons since the pics were done. Next stage is bridge and tuners and then we are on to electrics....
  19. [quote name='Shambo' timestamp='1503159030' post='3356135'] [b]RUINED[/b]! lol, only joking. Each to their own. As said, it's really interesting to see your relicing technique. [/quote] Haha! Of course relic'ing is definitely marmite - but tbh the process is a load of fun and I'm doing it more for the build pleasure. The other one I'm doing will be non-relic
  20. Pickguard has arrived. Have done some basic relic'ing with a coffee soak and some general wear and tear. I've gone with white - but it's aged quite a bit now. Still need to add more nicks and dings to it and extend the thumb wear. Pics to follow
  21. [quote name='JohnDaBass' timestamp='1502783594' post='3353426'] What paints did you use? [/quote] Nitro lacquer from The Manchester Guitar Tech - you'll find Steve online - he does the full range of fender colours and they are absolutely tip top paints if you are looking for rattle cans. Great bloke to deal with, and the paint is top drawer ..
  22. Oh, and you might notice the 'thumb rest' wear on the front seems to look like it's going to go under the pick guard - it is, and the guard will have similar wear to line up - I've seen a few basses where the thumb wear has gone right up to the pick guard and chipped it off underneath as a result. I went further to get the wear right.
  23. Next job is to acquire a pick guard, a bridge, and some tuners. I'm thinking Parchment for the pick guard and then add the age to it. Other choice was mint green. Hmm. Not sure.
  24. Had a chance to start the relic process. Some of my own preferred techniques are easier when the lacquer is still a bit soft. Others (like checking) require it to be significantly harder. So for now, it's had the start of the process done to it. At the moment it can look a bit 'raw' and a bit 'not really aged' - but some of that comes later. My process is generally: - Buff where I can, but given its new lacquer, not much - Add dents, dings, gouges, knocks, scrapes, holes and scratches with a variety of household and garage objects - Add specific sanding wear - Razorblade to gouge, pick, scrape and remove lacquer down to the wood - Use progressively finer sandpaper to dull some areas and create an aged satin (and in places matt) finish with plenty of swirl marks, playing marks, rubs, and other such abuse - Rub over a selection of shoe polishes, wood stains, and other odd darkening agents to bring out the age a bit more Here's where we are at: More to follow!
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