Bridgehouse

I'm going to go with an f-hole on this one to keep the thinline tele vibe - but to be honest it's an aesthetic thing - it wouldn't sound much different if it didn't have the f-hole and just looked like a solid body I am aiming for 7lbs. Anything under that and I'll be very amazed.

That's the idea. Just like a thinline Tele, but a P bass. It will be a swamp ash body with a swamp ash cap. There's two reasons I want to try this: - lighter weight - capture some of the hollow body tone (hopefully!)

I'm slightly concerned that the Mag 350 into my 8ohm Barefaced might be a touch quiet, but I don't know.

Made a start on the plate and fittings.. Jack socket and pots on. Popped the knobs on (but they need aging at some point.) Thought I had enough pickguard screws but I'm three short (d'oh!) - will have to order another pack. Tonight I will have a look at darkening the board.

I've developed a method for my gigging.. I'm finding I get the best mix of sounds if I use either a DI/Preamp pedal or Helix DI to front of house, with an amp and cab for monitoring. Usually I use my EICH T-1000 either into the Vanderkley or barefaced cab. For backup I have a Markbass LM III, but I know that the fx loop is before the Preamp. So, I would like to either swap it or sell it and then get a similar spec'd amp (500+ watts) with power amp in (FX return directly into power amp) I could get a poweramp but I don't want to go rackmount and I want to keep the size and weight down. Budget in the 4-500 quid new, and less used range. Looked at the Peavey Minimax, Hartke 600w job, and a few others. Suggestions from the crowd?

Nobody has ever said my bass playing is smokin'

Do be prepared for a long old chinwag tho. David doesn't do quick in and out sales...

I've bought from David before... Its worth noting that his advertised prices are not what you usually end up paying David likes a good haggle and a robust negotiation. He would be disappointed that he'd not enjoyed himself enough if you left paying the advertised price...

Nor me Going to be a slightly slower burn is this one

Now imagine that as a 51P shape in ash with a f hole cut and a trad single coil slot and no guard.. that's where I'm heading

I was on mobile, and the main link logo disappeared for about 10 mins.. most odd

Who deleted the logo on the top of the page then?

Ha! You clearly enjoyed it more than I did! I'll get some daylight shots at the weekend - it looks better in real colours rather than indoor lights

On my mobile, the quoted text looks smaller, but with a light blue background highlight...

15v?? That looked really interesting, and then I saw the voltage. Ugh.

Because: "Selling because of new baby. I literally now don't have time to do anything for myself at all. I feel guilty if I scratch for more than 10 seconds"

Trying to photograph any of the checking is bloomin' hard! Here it is as a whole (ignore the colour as it's house lighting): If you look really closely you can see some of the checking.. But.. under closer inspection.. Overall, I'm happy with it now, I think. Any more and it would be overkill and just wouldn't look genuine. Lessons learned: - Let the lacquer harden! - Heat and cold. Heat and cold. Heat and cold. Rinse and repeat - Patience! - Black shoe polish makes great false dirt for cracks - Mrs B doesn't like it when she can't fit the peas in the freezer.. Scratchplate screws next, and some electrics. Oh, and I ought to get some pickups really... anyone got a cheap P or J that might work with this?

No probs - been pressing it, scratching my head, pressing again and then shrugging for some time now BTW - ignore the naysayers - great upgrade and some really good new features..

Tough crowd. It's a free to use forum, guys... I was getting a load of errors all over the shop, but now it's as speedy as the whole site - no errors for at least 6 hours. Just a quick question - on the mobile interface, what's the page with magnifying glass icon for on the toolbar of the editor for? If I click on it nothing seems to happen....

Just by way of example, here's some pics of the chrome parts on my 1964 Precision. Note the saddles and screws on the bridge are quite clearly not chrome

You can rough it up first and try ferric chloride, but the reality is that even on real vintage stuff chrome pits but never really dulls (it gets scratched which can look similar) If you want the real aged look you need to go with nickel parts

Still quite subtle.. but the front face is crazing quite nicely now..

Presumably a coffin case, no?

A bit of patience does pay off it seems. Freezer for a few days, followed by in front of the fire then the airing cupboard - rinse and repeat... It is subtle, and it's localised at the mo, but Houston, we are getting some natural looking checking. It's remarkably similar to the checking on my 64P..

That just sounds a bit too much like "self gratification" for my liking...