caruso

You should try LaBella HRS. They have the best B of all for 34 scale basses (just my opinion, you have to decide for yourself). Don't feel as harsh to your fingers than Rotos, lower mids are really nice. Tension comparable to Rotos but lower. A really nice string.

-I am so happy....now I only need to find out which strings to use. I guess that the B-string shouldn't be too tense.....I'm thinking 128 tops. Any suggestions in that matter?- Try laBella HardRockingSteels. The bstring is the best.

-I am so happy....now I only need to find out which strings to use. I guess that the B-string shouldn't be too tense.....I'm thinking 128 tops. Any suggestions in that matter?- Try laBella HardRockingSteels. The bstring is the best.

[quote name='Ricki_Bass_DK' post='574267' date='Aug 19 2009, 02:03 PM']You say that yours is a bit heavy. What is the weight on yours? Is your pu-combination also jj?[/quote] Yes, it's jj configuration from S.D. Regarding the weight: my bathroom scale reads ca. 5.1 kgs.

Fodera NYC basses are not build by Fodera, but the parts are from the Fodera shop. NYC basses are checked after being built by the Fodera team. NYC are the most ''vintage'' basses from the company but because of the Pope preamp are very versatile. My NYC has an ash body without top and I can get almost every sound I need or might want. It is not a Fodera in the sense of the Monarch/Emperor style. Those are different basses. Playbility is good, sometimes, due to the set of strings I use the bass needs to be set up differently. Mine's a but heavey but no big problem and the weight adds to the tone. The price of 2.100 Euro seems to be ok, I paid much more for mine(new). Anyway, it is fun to play, delivers lots of tones, good built quality.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='539202' date='Jul 13 2009, 10:08 AM']Thanks for that caruso. I am interested in music and have been since I started gigging in 1967.[/quote] I didn't mean to offend you but still do not understand that during a period of more than 40 years you could not find a bass that kept you interested in, well in what? Obviously interest in music is not the problem then.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='539108' date='Jul 13 2009, 09:13 AM']I keep chopping and changing because I get bored with basses and need something new to maintain my interest.[/quote] Keep your interest in what? Bass playing? I've learned that you need to have to be interested in music. The instrument is just a tool to perform music.

[quote name='markdavid' post='539015' date='Jul 13 2009, 12:03 AM']What is it with trying to find a bass that works for me ? I don't know if anybody else here has this issue but out of all the basses I own/have owned I have never been able to find a bass that really works for me. Ive owned epiphones, fenders, squiers and countless other basses but have never really been satisfied or inspired with any of them and have found that typically any bass I own gets sold on or swapped or exchanged in a matter of months , either the basses dont feel right or the sound is wrong. I thought I had found "the bass" with the Ibanez I own at the moment but after the joy of owning a new bass has worn off I find the Ibanez a bit too modern sounding and find I am yearning for something a bit more old school (and passive rather than active) Anyway rant over , just needed to vent my frustration[/quote] I know this problem. My solution was to sell all basses, keep one and tell myself: that's what you have. Now play it. People like Jamerson, Montgomery, Felder didn't have such a great number of basses to chose from and still have layed the foundation for modern bassplaying. Ask yourself if it really the bass that causes your frustration or if you feel your playing does not satisfy you, which was the problem in my case.

As we are talking about Jazzbass clones I feel the need to mention Xotic. Superbly built and the Trilogic pre onboard.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='532118' date='Jul 3 2009, 11:00 PM']So....all in all where can you buy them from? The Bass Gallery, bring one back from USA, secondhand on here perhaps, and now Thomann? Anywhere else?[/quote] Again in Germany: station-music in Jettingen Scheppach. I'd like to add that opinions about the shop differ. The assortment of basses is great, when you want to buy the guy is very friendly and helpful. After sales service is just a pain (this is not only my experience). Some years ago I bought a bass and after 2 days I found out that the electronics didn't work as they were supposed to. The friendliness was gone and it was quite a haggle to get that fixed without having to pay for the repair. Friends from other forums report similar problems (not with the bass) regarding the service in case of problems with new bought instruments. On the other hand there are customers with very positive opinions so maybe it just depends.

Only a dozend were made? Them I'm an idiot. Had one in the late 90's made of Zebrawood. Bass was really dirty, had some white powder on it and was very hard to clean up. The finish was really nice and glassy, the woodwork was much better than the one of my two Tobiases. Neck was kind of wide but with nice profile and easy to play. No for the bad things: Pickups (EMG) microfonic/noisy as never heard before in an instrument but the real problem was a neck that moved over night. Bass had two trusrods and even after setting the bass up various time the neck did not settle. Had to go fpr a Warwick Thumb 4. Had I known that only twelve were made I should have kept it and sell it to someone collecting rare guitars and basses.

All depends on how serious you are about playing fretless. If fretless is the way you wanto to go, sell both and buy a serious fretless bass. If you are just looking into it, buy a chaep one and keep the Warmoth and Precision. If you don't need both (Warmoth and Precison) but do like the sound make the Warmoth your fretless.

I remember all those ugly shapes they produced in the 60s, like Teisco and Harmony. Not to everybodys liking but at least not the copycat street most of the basscompanies a taking. Same for EB Bongo and the AL. Only difference: the Bongo has a headstock that complements the bodyshape whereas the AL with the stock (characteristic) EB headstock looks strange. A sharp contoured body with that rather nice rounded headstock can't work out. Soundwise this thing may develop over time, flexibility seems to be no problem. Pricewise I think a lot of companies haven't heard the bang. Anyway, good luck to EB with this bass.

[url="http://www.beyers-music.de/beyers/seoc/product_info.php?products_id=4002479"]http://www.beyers-music.de/beyers/seoc/pro...ucts_id=4002479[/url] [url="http://www.musicworldbrilon.de/GitarrenBaesseAmps/E-Bass/Traben-Phoenix-4-Black-Shadow--10274.html"]http://www.musicworldbrilon.de/GitarrenBae...dow--10274.html[/url] Not 36 but 35 scale.

If resale is not an issue for you have a look at these: [url="http://www.odysseybass.com"]http://www.odysseybass.com[/url] [url="http://www.aries-basses.com"]http://www.aries-basses.com[/url] [url="http://www.nexus-guitars.com"]http://www.nexus-guitars.com[/url] [url="http://www.brownebasses.com"]http://www.brownebasses.com[/url] And a shop: [url="http://www.thelowend.net"]http://www.thelowend.net[/url]

Regarding the bstring on a Ray 5er I consider this one of the best bstrings on a 34 scale bass. Not the feeling of the ''wet noodle'' under your finger. Ballsy tone, as they say, good response. But you have to do some research which strings you like best on a Ray.

Generally speaking , strings with a round core a ''sloppier'' than hexcore strings. AfaIk DR High Beams and Sunbeams are round core, as well as Dean Markley Rocco Prestia Sig. strings. And you can have roundcore strings from Rob Green, which are the better choice if you know DR High Beams. The Hot Wires as they are called feel even softer and last longer. All, of course roundwound.

If you want to go the used way: [url="http://www.music-point-duisburg.de/shop/product_info.php?info=p1797_Lake-Placid-Custom-5-Saiter--gebraucht.html"]http://www.music-point-duisburg.de/shop/pr...-gebraucht.html[/url] Andre Waldenmeier is a well known luthier in Germany I one had on of his Strat copies which was really great. This bass has the narrow stringspacing requiered6 and will not cost you a fortune.

[quote name='IncX' post='473934' date='Apr 28 2009, 07:56 AM']i see... so that Fodera ddnt have Bubinga in it at all? ... whats the difference between a seymour duncan and EMG pups? ... believe it or not, i havent tried em...[/quote] According to the vid I searched for the Standard version of the Monarch and these don't have Bubinga tops but possibly that bass in the vid was custon made. I mentioned the specs regarding the body wood which is either ash or mahogany. EMGs tend to be very clear which I like and prefer over other pickups. You can make a clear/clean sound dirty/growly whatever just using a stompbox but changing the soundpalette of a pickup with a certain character is much more difficult. SD offers wide range of pickups so comparing is quite difficult bit SDs tend to be slightly warmer. And can be used passive.

Just found this: [url="http://www.musik-schmidt.de/products/de/Baesse/4-Saiter-Baesse/Warwick-Thumb-NT-4-String-Natural-Oil-Finish-gebraucht-.html"]http://www.musik-schmidt.de/products/de/Ba...gebraucht-.html[/url] Will result in about 1735 GBP plus additional cost to bring it to England. So I think 1999 is a good price for a new one. Cheers C.

[quote name='IncX' post='473503' date='Apr 27 2009, 05:03 PM']i see... so that is really Bubinga on that Fodera? ... cause i realized it could also be Afzelia.... the owner doesnt seem to reply to msgs (must be quite a busy guy).... and one more thing... alder body + wenge neck-fretboard + SD PUP and preamp = could sound as punchy and growly as that Fodera? im thinking that when it boils down to it... i would prefer tone over aesthetics and color combination.... although, i really dont want anything black *lol*[/quote] Had a look at the Fodera homepage for specs of the Monarch New Standard :Standard specs for the New Standard Series include: 34" scale 24 Large Frets Mahogany or Ash body Maple Neck Rosewood Fretboard Flame Maple or Quilted Maple Top Bolt-on Neck construction 2 band 18v Fodera Pope Preamp EMG PJ/JJ or Seymour Duncan Vintage style PJ/JJ Pickups So, no alder as body wood if you wanto to go that way. Afzelia has a more yellowish colour ( at least my Streamer St. II) and finer structure.

[quote name='IncX' post='473433' date='Apr 27 2009, 02:47 PM']i see... what good preamp/pup can you recommend for metal and funk stuff? ... and when you say "cutting" ... doesnt it depend on the amp and the EQ? i dont mind the weight since i play warwicks *lol* but you are right about that kahler being a "fun" thing more than a functional one since i probably can only use it in song endings and such.... as for the pope, well i dont mind spending for it if its really THAT worth it (my fusion and jazz chops suck terribly though, so the pope might not be so good - how about Nordstrand?) ... and snakewood... well, ive loved it the first time i saw it on a website, so i could really put off the custom until i can afford snake wood (is it really that expensive?) -*- thanks for sharing pete... Fanned = good for 5 string (ill keep that in mind since i havent owned a 5 string that made me happy, i always end up selling em).[/quote] SD pickups and their own preamps will get you what you want. Regarding the cutting thing just think about your WW and what you do to shape the sound. Sure thing that amp and EQing plays a role but first the bass in itself has to sound good. Yes, WW are heavy. That is Bubinga on that Fodera in the vid and the sound is really good. Snakewood is really expensive, maybe the alder/ash bubinga is an option for you.

Swamp ash will be more expensive than alder. Alder generates a deeper tone so I'd opt for that. Mike Pope pre is fine but much more suitable for fusion or better said bassist who go for a finer tone, never found Foderas really cuttung through with Pope preamps im metal settings. Fanned frets I don't feel necessary for a 4 string e-string sounds good on most 34scale basses. A Kahler may be fine but how often are you going to use it in a song? And it is very heavy adding to the overall weight. Birdseye maple for neck and fretboard: ok, go for the fretboard only, neck made from rock maple will be fine. I don't undestand the realtion between the Pope and the Snakewood thing. All regarding the ... on a budget... situation. Just my thoughts after reading your post. Cheers.

The overall construction is acceptable as the bridge on the one I have was not correctly fixed with the strings not running straight to the headstock. Had this fixed and now I really like the bass. Deep tone, kind of woody, playability for my normal sized hands good, a bit uncomfortable playing it sitting due to the large body. Sounds great with a tube amp (old Dynacord Bass King). Hardware sturdy to withstand the normal use as the whole bass feels very strong and stable. Choice of strings is an issue as flats I like best on this bass, one had rounds fitted but then the bass lacked character ( my opinion, of course). Sounds good new but gets better with time played regurlarly like acoustic guitars do. If you want to know something specific just ask. Cheers C.

La Bella HRS might help, the 45/65/85/105/128 set I like best.