karlthebassist

Stingray has an extra fret than the P bass neck, so the relitive position to the bridge will be different, so you will have to move the bridge closer to the neck... What is the bass you are trying to get a neck for?

So one of the bands I play with is an Indi/Folk sort of band with multi instrumentalists, acoustic instruments etc theres the link - [url="http://www.myspace.com/hoaxfuneral"]http://www.myspace.com/hoaxfuneral[/url] - I'm not on any of the recordings I've joined them last year for the new stuff they have been working on - the new sound is a bit different to that on the recordings. But anyway, I play acoustic bass guitar with them mainly (and dabble on some other things too), but I keep thinking "man that would sound sweet on upright" on SO many songs that I think it may be worth getting one. Problem is, what. If I could just go out and buy one I'd get an NS WAV 4. To me, they look cool, sound decent (im not going for uber authentic tone as I dont need it), are pretty compact and well made. But £670 quid... Only other one I've ever seen and played was the Stagg... and that's a pretty big no. Its massive, ugly and not very well made. So what are my options? Are there £400 EUB's that fit the bill? Do WAVs ever come up second hand, and what sort of prices would I be looking at? Any opinions, suggestions would be great. Cheers. Karl

Thinking about getting a cover or two for my Aguilar cabs after getting one really wet the other day... My problem is I just want something thin and light that I can fold away when I'm not using them. Most covers seem a bit ridgid. Anyone know of anything? Karl

Yeah I emailed the chaps over on the stingray forum with my S/N and they dated it down to the DAY for me. They did it really quickly too. Which was nice

[quote name='Doctor J' post='347509' date='Dec 6 2008, 09:05 PM']I've got a three band Stingray and I find myself using the mid knob quite a lot. It makes a huge difference in terms of how much the bass melts into the back in a band situation or comes right to the front of a mix. Personally, I couldn't imagine using a Stingray without one.[/quote] +1,000,000

[quote name='synaesthesia' post='731229' date='Jan 31 2010, 11:59 PM']They are stacked humbuckers, but they are not the variety which are of equal coils.[/quote] Oh right? Looking at one of the pickups this is actually quite noticeable as one winding is bulkier than the other... very strange - I can't get my head around how that works... I'll have to read up on it somewhere. Cheers for that though.

Veeeery nice. You should do a vid with a bit of knob tweeking so we can see (hear) the full effect of the onboard EQ. I take it that the pickup sweep blends between the front and back coils of the pickup? Is there a center dent for both on in the middle?

So it's worth the £2 its going to cost me for the switch when I build the bass?

[quote name='bigjohn' post='730593' date='Jan 31 2010, 02:01 PM']Hi Karl, I'm not sure those noiseless pups are stacked humbuckers. Not sure at all. I'm pretty sure it's the enamelled wires and "special" magnets which rid em of pesky 60 cycle hum. That's why they're vintage noiseless, rather than just noiseless.[/quote] If you look at the pickup without it's cover on it is definately a dual coil design, one stacked above the other rather then the one coil for the E and A with another for the D and G like some manufactures use. Probably humbucker is the wrong term for me to have used. The Fender blerb reads "Special magnets and enamel coated magnet wire [u]along with[/u] Fenders "Noiseless" technology produce a unique vintage sound..." Special magnets. Brilliant. "So, Fender, tell me about the magnets used in these new pickups of yours." "Well, they're 'special' you see..." "Right... how so?" "..." So however they work, the series parallel switching sounds like a good idea then. Cool, Cheers guys.

Good video. "Tuner.... the mind boggles" I love that bit. As for lending gear at gigs, I've recently played a few support slots with a couple of different bands who share the same bass player, a guy in Peterborough called Rich, who's a really nice guy and lets me use his Ampeg rig to save us having two bass rigs in a pub (which would just be daft). I don't dare even touch the knobs on in case I do something bad! I used to only let people use my DI box if they hadn't bothered to bring a rig or ring up and ask me first if they could use it. But I did feel like a right sh*t doing that... It is hard to say no.

Veeery nice bass! I had the 5 string for a while, but I just don't get on with 5. I wish I had swapped with someone for a 4 rather than just selling it. I love the little scoopy bit on the back at the heel

Hey Building a new bass with Fender Noiseless Jazz pickups in, and was wondering about series/parallel switching. I tried an S1 P-bass out at my local store when they came out and to be honest wasn't overly impressed with what it offered, but I put that down to the nature of the single pickup design. Unfortunately they had already sold the Jazz so I never got to have a go. I assume that there is some change in volume between series and parallel with a jazz setup. Probably series seeming louder? Does it provide with a substantially different enough tone to justify putting one in? Also worth noting is that the Noiseless Jazz pickups are sort of stacked humbucker style, with two colis one atop the other. Do I still use 250K pots? Cheers Karl

Oh dear GOD I would SO tap that! ...and slap it and pop it and pick it and twang it... *drools*

I brought my GS112 without trying it - and I've been SO happy with it. All my previous gear I had tried.

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' post='729125' date='Jan 29 2010, 07:51 PM']I've repaired several pickups where the leads have come off, and even re-wired humbuckers for split coil use. There's no problem at all, provided you're not pushing the iron's tip into the coils in any way.[/quote] Awesome. Thanks very much. I was just wondering if maybe the heat could affect the coating on the windings. But then again, I guess they had to solder it in the first place! Cheers Karl

I just brought a set of Jazz pups off here and one of the leads has broken off right at the bobbin where it attatches to one of the ends of the coil winding. Probably from me handling them today while measuring tthem and trying them in holes I routed for them in a new bass. I was just about to re-solder it back on, but then I thought I'd best check on here to make sure there is nothing I should be careful about when doing it... like melting colis or somthing. i dunno Chaz

So is it a satin laqure finish or a oil/waxy jobby? looks really really nice. the walnut i use doesn't come up nearly that dark! I love things like that. like the all rosewood stingray that was on the eb site! mmm...

I did try the 2x12 iso cab at my local store when it came out. They had JUST sold the Bass Terror head so I had to use my LMII which I had in the car. Its quite a loud cab for a little box. The low end was pretty tight and the way the sound filled the room was nice, but it wasn;t propper loud. and there is almost no trebble. and its really really REAELLY heavy. but i kinda liked it for some reason. if it was 300 quid i would have brought it as a second cab, but the lack of tweeter put me off.

I cant belive I have only just got around to doing this, [attachment=41118:P1010281.JPG] Today I finally fitted a side handle and the grill to my little 1x10 cab. I've been gigging with my acoustic band and loads of practices with the cab, always being scared of putting a hole in the speaker! I think it looks a bit rubbish in the picture because of the flash showing up the baffle and the grill support, but it looks a lot nicer in the flesh in normal light. Done.

On the necks I have de-fretted, I have tightened the truss rod up a bit to create a back bow (takes pressure off the frets), and just used a soldering iron to heat the frets to loosen them off (it releases the oils in the wood, drying it a little and opening up the slot, takes a while), then gently wiggled the frets out with a pair of flush cut nippers. Problem can come in where the fret tangs are big and grip the wood more, which can lead to the wood flaking up around the slot when pulling them out. But they went in that way, so should come out. Get a gentlemens saw or pannel saw to cut the slot depths evenly on each fret, cleaning them out. if they are not even and clean then when you go to fill the slots you will notice the little lines of veneer that come down the edge of the fingerboard will look un even. Standard 0.6mm wood veneer is perfect for filling the slots - i have used superglue and titebond in the past and would advise against superglue... use a chissel to trim down the veneers after theyre glued in. keep glue to a minimum (but you know that being a joiner) If you can get a straight neck on the bass before you de fret it then you stand a good chance at getting it nice and level with the frets out. If you use a long block to sand the board you can get it pretty straight easily. Bolt on necks can be shimmed at the back of the neck pocket to give you a lower action is the saddels wont go down enough. also the nut will have to be re-cut, but thats easy. I'd say definately have a go on the washburn though. its fun. i taught myself how to do it on my squire mb-4, which was my first bass. but like chris says, you can get replacement fender necks REALLY cheap so thats a good option for the usa bass. I payed 47 quid for a brand new, finished, all maple Allparts neck on ebay! [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/allparts-guitar-amp-parts/necks/bass-necks-c-277_1_122_124.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/all..._1_122_124.html[/url] look at those prices. theyre not bad necks at all really. but if you feel confidant after doing the washburn then go for it! you can always get it re fretted! (just dont go mad on the sanding )

Just gone through something similar to this with my Soul band. Facebook group was the answer. I started it as a hidden private group that you can only join by invitation, then added the members. Noone else can see or join it so its good in that respect. I've used it to post links, dates, lyrics, chords etc. Not sure about an actuall calender function though....

I suppose its as much of a case of everyone involved in the instrument from building to selling it in the store having to put their prices up a little. There are importers and exporters and distributers and all sorts of people adding a little bit before it even gets to the shops. If I were to guess, I'd bet that the stores are the people putting the less extra onto the price - because they have to be the most competitive. There is only going to be one main distributer for example, so they can pretty much do what they like with prices... within reason.