bobbass4k

You could do it with a very hollow flanger blended in, it wouldn't get you that honkiness but you could try and cover that with the clean tone. Depends on the chorus pedal but you'd struggle to get there with just a chorus.

A very fortunate find, though I'm extremely surprised I've not come across you before to be honest, having seen Blacklisters, FOTL, TSPSI and various other bands I'd definitely put you on support bills for over the past few years. Unless I have and forgotten... Which is not entirely unlikely Edit - You're from Leeds? I feel very bad now. My new band detection powers have failed me.

A single 6 line bloomberg article that cites no sources? Pretty much since RoHS was introduced people have been moaning about an "EU ban" on leaded solder, they don't do themselves any favours by making conclusive information difficult to find, but it's there - https://echa.europa.eu/fi/-/ten-new-substances-added-to-the-candidate-list Lead is on the SVHC Candidate list under the REACH regulation, meaning distributors have more obligations when selling it but is NOT an outright legal ban, it's a first step to moving to the "authorization list" which is a much stricter level of control and would potentially cause problems with supplying it. REACH has more legal teeth than RoHS, which is essentially optional. Consumer aimed retailers like B&Q etc. are probably not providing the necessary information, but this is a far cry from being in breach of an outright ban.

As I understand it's only on the REACH SVHC Candidate list so far, which just increases the obligations of selling it to certain consumers (mandatory SDS etc.). I work at Farnell, compliance isn't my area and it makes my teeth itch, so I'm not going to claim any more specific knowledge, but RoHS/REACH is reviewed constantly by an entire team of very boring but competent people. If we couldn't sell it, we wouldn't.

Tin/Lead is still readily available. You have to go looking a little bit more, but it's still perfectly legal to sell, It's just a supply and demand thing. Businesses etc. all want to be RoHS compliant so the demand for it plummeted, but you can still get it from more hobby-focused places. CPC/Farnell sell multicore, or the RS or Rapid own brand stuff is good.

Amen on both, I record a riff on the loop pedal and just feed that in. Doing test probes on amp also a bad idea, I use an old pair of headphones. It's pretty safe, 9v dc will just give you a bit of a buzz, you get used to it after a while to be honest. The bigger risk is to the pedal be very careful with the probe, any accidental shorts while power is on could blow something up or render it useless.

I've always thought of gear4 as an online shop. Having been to the York showroom I certainly wouldn't expect them to have stock of everything they're listing online there without confirming first. Can't say I really see the problem.

A percolator is as good a starting place as any, beware though as the circuit is quite tempramental, the original transistors are obsolete and the sound will change quite drastically with your transistor choices, I'd maybe go for a components kit from somewhere like fuzzdog, as they'll come with "known good" ones.

Super important completely hypothetical question - If I wanted to do a cover of an obscure song using the original vocal stem that has been freely published for remix purposes is that kosher within the spirit of the thing or is it too "remixy"?

The "There's no rules, just listen to the universe maaaan" answer is never as useful as people seem to think it is, especially for beginners. You only need 6 pedals before you're looking at 700+ potential combinations. On my most recent 22 strong board that spikes slightly to 1120000000000000000000. I know I have better things to do with my Sundays. As a rule, Octavers track much, much better with a clean, strong signal, always first or just after the compressor. I like gain early, other people vary but I generally prefer running gain in to everything else (pre-amp, amp sim pedals being the general exception). As radiophonic said, phaser (and chorus etc.) into gain will sound more pronounced but I've never found much use for those sounds. Filters after drive is a lot more pronounced and what I go for usually, if you want that big synth sound you need to go octave > fuzz > filter. A fuzz produces an extremely compressed signal that essentially jams an envelope filter open, if you put a filter first the fuzz obliterates the dynamics and I've always found it way too subtle. I then run modulation, the order varies but I tend to run the more subtle effects like chorus first and tremolo usually goes last. Time effects like delay and long reverbs go last as generally you want the delay to apply to the whole signal, though delay before other stuff can be a fun effect. There's other things to consider, if you're running a long chain a good buffered bypass pedal near the end and in the middle is a very good idea. Compressor is largely taste/the effect you need, if you're after general tone shaping first is a good idea, if you're using it as more of a limiter for big peaks then you'll usually want to go last or directly after the problem pedal.

I have to do most of my componenets ordering at work so it's just practical, I got sick of ordering expensive ICs for new builds only to discover I had one in the back of the ICs drawer. it only works if you remember to update it though...

If my google sheets inventory is to be believed I do, but I'll check when I get home.

For general edification, this is an industry wide problem that's going to get worse before it gets better. Most of the big manufacturers have pushed out their lead times and all the distributors have panicked with a big rush of orders, so a lot of stuff is on allocation (orders are outstripping production). One of our manufacturers has quoted us 48 weeks on some stuff. This problem has been looming for a year or so, but as everyone is now running out of their existing and emergency stock, it's starting to hit every level.

CPC is worth a look - https://cpc.farnell.com/ Same company as Farnell but they aim more at the hobbyist so quantities can be more reasonable, though range is more restricted. FYI though at Farnell - if they're only showing full reels and you want less, it's always worth a ring to sales, if you're doing a decent sized order they might transfer them to the cut tape SKU so you can buy smaller quantities (source: I work there).

It's just an odd way to make the distinction that (I think) exploits misconceptions about electronics (Silicon = modern and harsh, Valves = warm and vintage). If you have one side labelled "Silicon Rectifier" and another side labelled something else when it also (almost certainly) also uses Silicon rectifiers, I find that deliberate. No harm though, they clearly know their market and I'm sure it'll sell great. Yes I'm sure the Microtubes name is just for vivid imagery and Mr. Darkglass would be livid if anybody bought the pedal because the name made them think it would make them sound like a tube amp...

If are inclined toward pedantry, "Valve Rectifier" is 3 more letters than "Valve Styled" and the same length as "Valve Emulation", so brevity is perhaps not the principal agenda. Its just something that annoys me is all, so much of the boutique industry is built around an almost ubiquitous snake oil thesaurus that essentially exploits ignorance. But, 'twas ever thus, just annoys me. The microtubes name too yes ("Red Llama with some fancy EQing" probably didn't fit on the box).

They lose a lot of credibility for talking about the "valve rectifier" side and the "solid state rectifier" side. If there ain't a valve in it (which there isn't), then it has 2 solid state sides. Which is fine, but be honest about it.

You're welcome. Now that you mention it I've only clocked on to it the last couple of weeks, but it's possible before that I've just thought I'd left the sound on or thought I had the media volume up (still happens with the media volume muted)

On mobile, if the page is open the new notification tone plays with the system set to silent mode. I've triple checked and can't see anything system side in either the phone settings or chrome that would be allowing this. I've turned the sound off in profile settings, but it's a bit worrying that the site can override systems settings like this. Huawei EMUI 5.0.1 on Android 7.0, Chrome 67.0.3396.87

For me, every digital multi I ever tried was boring, uninspiring and inflexible. They're a great option for probably most people, as they're all about utility. I love pedals for their creativity, discovering new and unexpected sounds is what I love and one of my big inspirations to play and it just isn't possible with multis. Nothing to do with "analogue" purism, as a lot of the really envelope pushing stuff happening at the moment in stompboxes is digital, the increasing availability and cheapness of DSP chips and the tools to develop for them has led to an explosion of really cool unique pedals, with people like Red Panda, Chase Bliss etc.

I get the bulk of my stuff from CPC now as I get a frankly embarrassing Farnell staff discount and the quality is fairly good on the cheap stuff. They have a lot of unbranded/generic resistors/caps that are exactly what you'd get off ebay or a bulk seller. Just to add, Banzai in Germany is also a good one to have bookmarked. Their prices can be quite high, but if you're struggling to find something, Banzai probably have it (I just bought a 100k reverse log 9mm pot that I literally couldn't find anywhere else). Postage is a bit steep but it's a fixed price you won't get stung taxes so it's still cheaper than america.

Bitsbox is probably the closest, they're geared to the hobbyist, and the audio/pedal hobbyist in particular. They don't have quite the selection of the big boys and the prices aren't rock bottom but no minimums, low fixed postage and reliable delivery make them my goto for low volume/last minute orders.

Just stumbled across these at work, forget hunting down original JRC4558s, clearly these are now the key to that truly golden tubescreamer sound... all for a very reasonable £50.... http://www.profusionplc.com/parts/orange-dd

Sand down well with 400-600 grit wet'n'dry, wipe clean with acetone/spirits, couple of coats of primer, leave to dry, few coats of spray paint of choice, drill, touch up any problems cause by the drilling, graphics, few coats of clear coat. You could drill first, but as the painting can take a day or two with drying time, I like to work on my drill template/design while the paints drying. I use all rustoleum stuff because i usually don't have the foresight to plan ahead and end up going to the local DIY store. With proper priming you can use any general purpose spray paint really. I think you can get specialist aluminium primer, but I've found the general purpose rustoleum primer to do the job, just make sure you sand properly (the primer needs something to grip to).