Balcro

Well, lookeee here Maxn! Guess what I just found by asking Jeeves. http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/thiele%20small%20parameters/theile%20parameters.pdf Balcro.

hello Maxm, This site will be good for starters - [url="http://unofficialacousticcontrolcorpmessageboard.yuku.com/directory#.VVUexpM3R_k"]http://unofficialaco...ry#.VVUexpM3R_k[/url] Also try searches on JBL K140 - they're prized treasures for some people. You may also see modern comparisons on the usspeaker.com web-site. Balcro. PS. Oh, and this - http://www.jblpro.com/pages/obsolete.htm

Hello stevebasshead, I've had a look at a few 10" options and there is no shortage of speakers to fit in as a 4x10. Some are pretty weak and others look really great with lots of power handling. Also don't be surprised by a difference in tonal balance. However, as jtuk says , you have to look at the cost. Four new speakers (in general) can cost from £200 to over £325. By the way, what speaker is fitted in the box at the moment? Balcro.

Hi stevebasshead, Once you've fitted the new empty front baffle and secured it against battens or whatever, what (height x width) dimensions remain? Can you still fit two 10" speakers side by side and still leave room for some wood between them? If that's possible, then divide the internal volume by 2 or 4. That gives you the possibilities for volume per drive unit. Some, not all, loudspeaker manufacturers publish data showing a suitable volume for their speaker drive units on the product page. Check their web-sites. For others you'll have take the t/s parameters and run them through winISD to see if the volume is appropriate. Also:- 1. What are you trying to achieve? 2. What is the existing internal volume? 3. Why change from a 15" drive unit? Balcro.

Hello d-b, Judging by the steel basket, those speakers appear to be Celestions, custom made for Trace Elliot. Send an e-mail to - [email protected] -- and give him a full description of your speaker. He can probably tell you a modern equivilant that will be suitable. See also - celestion.com/contact/ Balcro.

I don't have it, but while looking up something entirely different I found that the actors David McCallum ("Duckie" on NCIS) and Bill Nighy have had it. Even Ronald Reagan. Good luck with treatment. Balcro.

[quote name='bootsy666' timestamp='1429099844' post='2747956'] It feels quite light without the speakers, my basson cab weighs more. The drivers are light so it should be too bad, plus my entire band will be helping to shift the thing about. [/quote] Bootsy, I'm with Billfitzmaurice on this one. Wild idea, but when I modelled it in winISD the response curve was unbalanced in the low/mid bass with nearly 4dB lift at 95Hz compared with the level at 230Hz. Despite all the iron employed, low-bass-power- handling was only in the region of 300watts. It looked much more comfortable when set in a closed box of 450 litres!! Only a 1.8dB lift at 125Hz - that would sound very punchy. The good news is the sound level with 300watts input. How about 139dB between 140 & 160HZ!!!! Not quite a Saturn V moon rocket, but keep trying. I suspect the TF1525 is a Bass PA speaker, not really for electric bass. Balcro.

Hello leonardo, I couldn't see any bass-guitar orientated 12" drivers on the Monacor web-site but this 10" unit looks capable of producing adequate bass. None of the other drivers look good for bass. http://www.monacor.co.uk/products/speakerbuilding-pa10-12/vnr/105590/ Although it is listed under the "PA" section, it's specification seems to be up to the job. I ran it through winISD and a single unit seems to be suited to net box volume of 20 - 25 litres. It holds it's full rated power down to fundamental resonance @ 47Hz. Downside: - It's really designed to work with a midrange or tweeter as there is falling output above 2KHz; it will probably sound rather polite and it isn't very efficient, but if nothing else is available, then it's an option. In summary ( as Phil is suggesting ) it's OK, but......but.... Balcro.

Maybe you also need this: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8MbcoSsc14 There's a thread on here somewhere about the BD121 sucking out the mids and this fairly simple mod. I've searched on 5 or 6 sub-forums but I can't find the original post or remember the OP. I think the youtube poster is a member on here. Balcro.

[quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1416562920' post='2611413'] Spring for the postage (£3.90) and they're yours. [attachment=176838:DSC00059.JPG] [/quote] That'll do nicely. PM'd Balcro

In your last post (with the two graphs) You've set the input to 200 watts. Without changing anything else, click on the "maximum SPL" tab and from the drop down menu select "Cone excursion". You've exceeded xmax by 1.5mm. at about 77Hz! Keep that up for long and you won't have an undamaged Basslite. All the features and parameters are there to be married together. They're listed for a purpose. Yes, it's loud, but for how long. Balcro.

Tuning the cab lower will only reduce the hump but it will not be eliminated. Reducing the hump will make it easier to re-balance the sound via the amp or bass eq. Cut the bass and boost the mids. However, tune too low and and the already weak low-bass power-handling will suffer drammatically. Give yourself a shock by clicking on the (Transfer function magnitude / SPL menu) button and selecting maximum power! There's more to tuning than simply achieving the highest SPL. Do as Bill suggests in post #7 and just enter the parameters he has listed; winISD will do the rest. Then save it. Likewise, when it comes to adjusting the response, tune it as Bill suggests. Balcro.

I agree with Salt on your Bass?. Get another 15. The ideal partner would be the GB-115ext extension cabinet which is designed to go under your combo. If the combo is raised on top of the extension cab then the tweeter will be near your ears and the "airiness" will still be apparent. If you can't afford or can't find a GB, then another 8ohm 15" cab that handles 300w would be the next best thing, not forgetting top panel dimensions so that the combo fits on top. The increased wattage available at the amp (on its own) will not give a noticeable increase in volume, but adding a second loudspeaker - sound source - will up the decibels. Balcro.

Calling chriswareham! Calling chriswareham! Over & Out. Balcro

Before you start cutting and sawing, it's worthwhile having a look at the individual drive units and checking they're all the same impedance as well as the stated impedance (ohms) of the existing 4x10. You will probably have to do a re-wiring job unless your amp has twin speaker outlets. Put those figures up here and no doubt some experienced basschatter re-wiring expert will let you know what's necessary. Ballcro.

HI there. I bought my bass from them over 3 years ago. Long guarantee on the product and a very good price. As I recall it took about 5 working days for the delivery. I was very pleased to get a call from my credit card supplier who spotted the transaction to France and double checked its validity. Good luck. Balcro.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1403523252' post='2483475'] Hi Balcro Thanks for checking that for me. I assume you got the power handling vs freq and xmax figures from a different simulator to WinISD? - I couldn't see where it would provide that info. My next checks will be about the port. I will go for a full width slot. I don't have the sizes to hand, so from memory it was about 268mm by 30mm giving a shelf length of about 90mm and mach 0.10. I did read somewhere that there should be at least 3" (76mm) gap between the end of the port and the rear panel, so with a box depth of 168mm it should be just about ok [/quote] Hello mba, No, the technical figures are all provided by winISD. Look for a tab or button marked "Transfer function magnitude". Click it and it will bring up various parameter options including port size; set it for a round, square or rectangular; the choice is yours. Set your chosen volume first, then work from there. Balcro.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1403473715' post='2483100'] What was the volume of the cab for that model? When I ran it in win|SD, the figure came out at 13 litres with a -3dB point at about 90Hz. I'm not looking for massive bass, so that seems ok, but I was a bit surprised at how small the volume came out. Not complaining though (unless I've entered one of the T-S parameters wrong!) [/quote] Hi MBA, I checked again and the volume is surprisingly small. As you say, a volume of 13 litres gives a figure of around - 4 at 90Hz. The ported box in the second thumbnail was set at a net volume of 23 litres. Net volume accounts for the volume inside the box occupied by the BN-200x and the volume taken up by a slot port. I tweaked it up for purposes of illustration to give just a little more low bass. With the larger box, power handling is 200 watts all the way down to 65Hz, then drops to only 100w at 60Hz. 60Hz is also the point where "xmax" is reached with a 100w input, however with that input the system is producing a sound level in excess of 115db! Reducing the volume of the enclosure down to 13 litres will lower the 200w power handling down to 55Hz and the xmax point to about 51Hz. The trade off is a loss of about 3dB @ 90Hz. That should be good enough for many practice and small gig situations, but avoid huge inputs and the use of an octaver. Balcro

As Bill and Phill have said, porting is the answer. Picture 1 is the Celestion in a closed box. Picture 2 is the result when fitted in a small slot ported box. Balcro.

[quote name='davidlovellbass' timestamp='1402762606' post='2476644'] Thank you all for the responses, I never gave the speaker specs much thought as the cabinet never sounded like it was being taxed at any volumes. Where could i find a cabinet design that'd use the speaker to it's full potential? I don't have a cabinet design program but making one isn't beyond impossible or would an existing brands cabinet work just as well? [/quote] From doing another run-through using the winISD modelling program, you realise that the E145 is very versatile, in that you can tune it to a variety of sounds. You can extend the low frequency response, you can tune it for a "flattish" frequency response with a slight low boost in volume, or raise the tuning to give a warm low-mids. It doesn't care. It also seems to be quite capable of working in a wide range of cabinet sizes; perhaps in the range 65 - 150 litres. Of course, the smaller the box the lighter it will be. My impression is that maximising it's true potential is for a nearly flat response with some low bass extension. For an example of what might be suitable as a cabinet design, take a look at the "pinned" DIY cabs section of Amps & Cabs. On page 1 post #8, dated 25/5/07. richardH shows a nice 1x15 fitted with an EV speaker. Something along those lines would be good. There are two things to consider if you want to buy a 1x15 second-hand cab of similar size:- The diameter of the existing screw/mounting holes in the cab and whether they match the E145. Probably not; so they may need to be re-drilled. Secondly, the baffle hole may need to be re-routed to match the speaker frame. Balcro.

Hi daidlovebass, The E145 is definitely the thing to keep. It seems to be under-rated. so much so that it will probably last for many more decades. I've run it's specs through winISD, the first JBL I've checked, and it's the first unit I've come across that handles more than it's rated capacity and laughs at the amp power! It handles the full 150 watts all the way down to it's fundamental resonance @ 35Hz. I think that's it's thermal limit, but at the same time it never exceeds the mechanical "xmax" until the same low point. Where most (not all) reflex-port loaded drive units show a sharp dip in mechanical capacity between 55 - 70Hz, this thing just keeps on going. Mechanically you can simulate a 600W Rms input and that 55-70Hz band is still below xMax! That's rugged. Enjoy, Balcro

Hi chriswareham, All is not lost. I may have the perfect solution in the form of the best preserved (i.e barely used) Celestion G18-C in the world. It's a 100w version, but could be 15ohms - can't be sure until I take the back of the home-built cabinet. Fundamental resonance is 35Hz. Bought by me from a shop in Tottenham Court Rd in about 71/72. I carried it home via the underground and rail to Hornchurch in Essex. To this day I have a weak back and very long arms which have never reverted to their original length! Since then it probably hasn't been used for more than 50 hours and always stored in the house, not even in a garage. We have builders in at the moment, so the enclosure is underneath "other stuff" behind me. If you can give me a couple of weeks, I'll investigate the Ohms rating. The deal is, if you want it, it's yours, but you'll have to take the enclosure & speaker together. Balcro.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1401995104' post='2469110'] Cheers Paul, here`s hoping too...... To clarify, so far we have: 1. Me - US 78, standard pups, maple 2. JohnnyBoyRotten - Squier, SD QPs, rosewood 3. Hertsbass - US 2012, standard CS pups, maple 4. Grandwazoo - Dingwall PJ5, Dingwall pups, maple 5. Charic - MIM 2006, SD QPs, maple 6. Seashell - MIM, standard pups, rosewood. 7. Balcro - Encore; own-brand p/u; Made in Korea (probably); Elite Stadium 45-105 rounds; maple. [/quote]

Hi Geek99, I went from a 45 - 105 D'Addario 165 XL's to GHS Brite Flats 52- 103 (ML 3075). No adjustment necessary. Balcro.

Hi Subthumper, It looks like you've got some options here. 1. Maybe the existing cab is wrongly specified for the drivers, so that at high levels it's farting out. The existing set-up could be checked to see if it's basic design is OK. Put up some info on your rig with the rough internal dimensions of the cab, plus the number and size of the ports and any info you have on the bass drivers. 2. A new build 2 x 15 with two Neo drivers will cost about £300 - £380 for the bass drivers alone. Balcro.