pmjos

I have tried, the Boss and Zoom and found that they break up on low frequency effects. Some of the effects are weedy. I'll have a look at Fractal and eventide. Any others out there?

Price is not a limitation, nut I want to get what I pay for

Guys help, I want a decent multi effects something decent and all roads on the way lead to Boss or Zoom. Is there anything better??? Nothing seems to have improved in 5 years. What am i missing??

Everybody Dance should be a crude disco line but its not, its a palette full or tones, intensities and transition techniques that just rolled effortlessly from Edwards fingers. I have always loved that that line. So here I am at 51 and at last, I can do it - just - but after 35 years, I understand he did it pretty much on the spot. I think of him as one of the greats and a sadly missed and under rated genius. Flats no, dead rounds plus a PEB ray with mutes. He mutes both left and right (just to be difficult - most of the time no muting) and most people miss the transition at the start of the line from fingers to chucking. He also moves between the A and the D String playing alternately between the bridge and neck end positions in a rocking motion between plucks. Creates a totally different feel. The man could have made a broom handle and a bit of string sound good. There will never be another.

My advise is don't buy him a starter bass. Buy your son a good quality instrument that sounds the dogs and if it costs a bit more he will pay you back a thousand fold when he spends hours doing something educational and useful with his time rather than playing a video game with a starter bass standing in the corner. Seriously, when I was a kid my family was skint. My uncle bought me and my two brothers a guitar each and two of us play to this day 35 years later because he gave us a good instrument. If its good enough for your to play its good enough for him. Wish you all the best starting your son out, invest in his potential.

For a range of reasons Bernard Edwards Norman Watt Roy Pino Paladino Bobby Vega Stuart Zender Louis Johnson Jaco Federico Malaman John Myung Flea

My Old Man, great line

I want my 1979 Ibanez Roadster back...... Sigh

It all seems daft to me. I have a bad back and knackered knees so I bought a really good quality strap. I can really see myself knocking a 1961 stack knob for a grand cos its a pound too heavy. Cmon.... If you like the bass then get it, if you have a bad back you already know that Warwick NT 6's are made from wood with a density 3x Uranium 238 and weigh more than a London bus - so why ask?

Hi is there anyone out there based in Carlisle. I have an offer of a bass and need a bit of help to check it out. I am happy to pay for services rendered.

1. Have fun 2. Stick with it 3. Play the best sounding bass you can afford 4. Listen to what other musicians play not what they say If it's in your soul you will get it.

These early Warwick's are gems, hand made and really musical. I have an 86/7NTThumb 6 and its got the best bitch ass B I've ever heard its almost 'digital' if you know what I mean. I think that these basses will be very collectible in coming years and they are undervalued now. Well done you for getting this one.

Oh and I know that Class D amps are not strictly digital.... its only the processing of the input to the mostly Mosfet driver stages......... I really won't bother again....... the techy police will get me. I'll just slip off and burn my degree

I was trying to be helpful and didn't think explaining PWM would benefit most people. I still don't. Your comment is correct but unintelligible. For reference I do not also fry eggs on my class A amplifiers or think that I need to become a Bat to hear the difference between Class D and other forms of amplifier.

OK techy response for you guys............. There definitely is a difference between Class D and other types of amps. A distinct technical difference, class D is [b]Digital [/b]and A A/B are analogue. But what does that actually mean? Class D amps were developed out of Switch Mode Power Supplies and in fact a class D Amp (as in a rig amp) contains a Switch Mode Power Supply (SMPS) and a Class D (Switch Mode) amplifier - both are digital. A class or A/B works by continuously increasing the 'amplitude' of the whole signal coming in from your bass. It takes what comes in, subject to tone filtration, and makes it bigger. Continuous signal in continuous signal out. A Class D chops up the signal in into thousands of slices of equal size each with an amplitude ( a value in volts) and then the power amp reproduces each slice with a bigger amplitude (more volts/current). SO what I am saying is the amplification relates to the slices NOT a continuous signal . Think of it like a modern TV which scans in a new image at 100Hz or 100 times a second. Looks pretty live to most people. Your eyes can't resolve the flicker because its too fast so you see an averaged out smooth image. Now what is happening in a rig is that the digital signal goes through a low pass filter then to your speaker driver which just like your eye can't resolve at the sample frequency of the digital amp. The filter and speaker do the same job as your eyes with a TV, It produces a uniform tone (moving sound picture) which you hear. You are hearing averaged out slices of your original tone. That isn't to say it sounds bad to our ears . A modern Class D will sound a little different but most of us won't hear it. Class D is a compromise between lightness and efficiency and tone.This is the same as between Class A, Class A/B ad Class B. Class A is incredibly pure, low distortion and low noise but at 30W you could fry eggs on it and need massive power supplies, Class B is noisier but more efficient, class A/B a hybrid. The smart cookies have put valve pre amps in before the Class D so you get tone Plus light power , Genz, Aggi Its all a compromise - its always a compromise BUT digital is getting pretty good and its set to get better. Soon there won't be an argument to have - unless you have hearing like a bat of course.