Greg.Bassman

Cool. Incidentally, I have a new york 122 in storage. I’ve often wondered how the traveler would compare. I kinda know what to expect tone wise, but how does the traveler hold up in terms of volume? I know that it isn’t going to be loud as the new york, or indeed the standard hr, but will it hold its own against a loud drummer regardless?

Cheers for the feedback. To clarify, I use the solid state LM800.

What constitutes as ‘distress’? Buzzing? Cutting out? Thin sounding? Forgive the daft sounding question, just making sure that inform myself as much as possible 😉

Duly noted lol. But fundamentally, what I want to be sure of is that its not going to blow up on me?! lol

Hi all. My current rig is the ‘Little Mark 800’ head through the ‘Standard 104HR’ cabinet (4 Ohm); but I was looking into a smaller cabinet to save on space, namely the ‘Traveler 102P’ (4 Ohm). However, I wondered if the two would be compatible with one another though, as the traveler only have a power of 400W RMS? I don’t know too much of the science behind bass equipment; I’ve just always assumed that the head and cabinet should both be of similar power.... what does it mean to have a cabinet of less power, in conjunction with a higher powered head? Cheers.

Hi all. I’ve been online to look for a set of flatwounds. Opinions are mixed regarding top load or thru-body; with some companies like labella cautioning against it, whilst others such as daddario say that it is fine. I wondered if someone could help clear this up for me please? The general idea seems to be that flatwounds are not suitable for basses with ‘thru-body’ stringing as they don’t like being pulled over tight angles. However, I have also read that this depends on gauge and the size of the break angle. If possible, I would like to keep the thru-body option as I feel that it transfers string vibration to the body more reliably and efficiently. The bass that I am using is a yamaha bb1024, which a incorporates a diagonal 45º angle stringing method, as opposed to the traditional vertical (90º), which places less stress on the strings. Do you think that the smaller 45º break angle on my yamaha combined with, say, a set of D’Addario ECB80 Chromes 40-95 (D’Addario's lightest flatwound bass strings) would work fine? Thanks.

Hi all. Thank you for your comments, much appreciated! 😀

Hi all. Thinking of this warwick thumb as my next purchase… https://www.andertons.co.uk/bass-dept/bass-guitars/warwick-gps-thumb-bo-4-in-natural-transparent-satin. Hypothetically speaking, if we say that it has been well looked after with no problems etc, how much could I expect to get back from one of these if I decide to sell in future? I know this might seem like an odd question, but I figured that it doesn’t hurt to plan for the worst. After losing too much money on other brands before, I have since learnt to be mindful of resale value before deciding to pull the trigger. Cheers.

Hi all. I revisit these two songs often, and love that the driving element of them is largely owed to the bass and drums. Bass wise, I also can’t help but notice the greatest groove-inducing element... space/restraint. What other songs from this era follow the same ‘slow-tempo, funky, minimalist' mash of head-bobbing goodness?

And a huge help you have all been too, thank you guys! Much appreciated!

How will a ‘good’ luthier typically do this? Is there a correct way that should be followed? ‘Hellzero’, you’ve already mentioned about a new nut, relief adjustment and fretdress… is there anything else? I only ask because I have a local luthier, but I’m having my doubts about him. I took my bass into him a few months ago for a ‘setup’, but was disappointed by the result. He set it with what he said was a ‘medium-low’ action (not near what I wanted, like in the videos) and insisted that it could not be taken any lower due to the build of the instrument. Not knowing a thing about bass setup, I never questioned him about it and just accepted his word for it (despite my better judgement). So either I didn't make myself clear enough in the first place or he just doesn’t know what he’s doing. I just thought that if I know more, then I can judge the extent of the work a little better if I use him again. If Anthony Vitti (2nd video) can do it on a vintage jazz with a 7.25 radius and single piece neck, then it must be possible on a modern Yamaha with 10” radius and 5-piece neck, right?

Sounds about right! aha. I’m located in Birmingham, UK. Thanks for the suggestion. Anybody you're happy to recommend would be greatly appreciated

Lol, I know, please take my words with a pinch of salt. ‘Butter/rubber bands/wool strings’… take your pick, what I'm trying to describe is all things of a 'low tension/soft/slinky' nature Cheers 4000!

I briefly looked into TI jazz flats before, but concluded that the flats wouldn’t be appropriate for slap and the gauge would be too floppy, for me anyways (IMHO). As I mentioned to Jecklin previously, I have experience using thinner gauges but found them too floppy to articulate with my right hand. But thanks for the suggestion, much appreciated!

I play fingerstyle, slap and (alittle) tap. Incidentally, the videos that I posted feature a lot of slap, but thats not why I posted, I was trying to point out their actions. I should have been a little more clear, sorry lads Thank you all!

Hi all. Forgive my absence. Thank you for all your suggestions! I shall try and clear a few things up here

I basically just want my strings low to the point where I barely have to strike them to make them sound. Here is a couple of videos I found from my favourite players. I’m amazed by how low their actions appears here; in some of the close-ups, it’s like there is almost NO distance between the strings and fingerboard at all! lol. How do I get my bass setup like this? EDIT: I’m currently playing a Yamaha bb1024.

Hmmm interesting point you make here. I can imagine how this could be the case. I have visited my local guitar store a few times recently to try some basses, hoping to get an idea for radius etc, but the ‘factory’ setup that they come with has often been awful (not my preferred gauge, action too high), so I can never quite tell what I like for sure. I tried 35-90 a few years ago, after finding 45-100 too thick, but they were too floppy to articulate with my right hand. 40-95 seems like the most appropriate compromise between the two gauges, for me anyways.

Hi all. Hope you’re well. As a (very) light player, I require as little fight from my bass as I can in order to fret notes comfortably. So I need a low tension setup that is going to promote this. I am trying to discover the right combination of string gauge, tension, material and height etc that is going to provide me with such. Not being the most tech-savvy however, I am often at a loss when understanding which factors determine the playability (feel) of a bass, and what steps I can take to get my bass feeling like wool. This is obviously something that will take some experimentation and spending many hours with my instrument, but I wondered if you had any suggestions to get me started please? EDIT: One change that I have already made is in my choice of string. After dwindling down my options, I have arrived at DR sunbeam 40-95 bass strings. Lighter gauge = less tension. Also, the round core and nickel wrap is what gives them their ‘softness of feel' that the range has become renowned for. I have also being researching action and radius choice in conjunction with this. I’ve read that it is easier to achieve an (ultra low) action on flatter radiuses; many ‘flat(ter) converts' noting the increased comfort and dexterity, presumably because of the low action and string-string height evenness. If so, what radius inch (ie 12”, 16” etc) would you suggest for someone (like myself) who is looking to employ multiple techniques in their playing?

Hi everyone. It has been suggested that a flatter radius would provide a more even platform for my growing technique (ie tap, chords and bends). So I am thinking of sending my bass in to workshop to have it modified, but I’m undecided as to how flat I should take it. I have visited my local guitar store a few times to try some basses, hoping to get an idea for radius, but the ‘factory’ setup on each of them was awful so I couldn’t quite tell what I liked for sure. The only thing that I can say possibly, is that 12” felt too rounded still; which leaves me with the possibility of anything above that. How do I decide what radius is best for me? Are there any deciding factors that I should be considering? What radius inch would you suggest as a good ‘all-rounder’ for someone (like myself) who is looking to employ multiple techniques in their playing? Whats a safe bet? etc. Cheers. EDIT: The bass is a Yamaha BB1024 with a 10” radius. I love how the bass sounds, so I would rather convert the neck rather buying a new bass altogether.

Steve brought my D’addario strings. A friendly and honest basschatter. Good communications and payment also… trade with ease! Thanks again Steve. Greg.

Chris brought my D’addario strings. A friendly and honest basschatter. Good communications and payment also… trade with ease! Thanks again Chris . Greg.