Greg.Bassman

[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=4][color=#000000]Hi all.[/color][/size][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=4][color=#000000]Looking to buy a padded dust cover for my Markbass New York 122 Cabinet. I don[/color][color=#000000]’t think Markbass do an official one, so I’m going to have to buy elsewhere. Can anybody suggest any trusted sellers that I can get one from please? (links would be great[/color][/size][/font]). [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=4][color=#000000]Dimensions: 38.5 x 72 x 36.5cm (HxWxD)[/color][/size][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=4][color=#000000]Cheers.[/color][/size][/font]

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1492447557' post='3280317'] Whole list of recommended luthiers here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/26654-recommended-luthiers/"]http://basschat.co.u...ended-luthiers/[/url] I've personally had great experiences with Terry Chapman, Alan at ACG and Andyjr1515 - pick whoever's nearest to you. [/quote] Brilliant. Cheers for this!

[quote name='cgg199' timestamp='1491846824' post='3275847'] I had Jon Shuker build me a fretless neck for a Squier. It's just a simple maple neck with rosewood board, but the carbon super rods and custom dimensions make it far better than a Mexican fender neck, for the price. He's also re-radiused basses before, so it might be worth getting a quote for that. [/quote] Hi cgg199. Very reassuring, thank you. I will certainly drop him a line sometime.

[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1491828351' post='3275647'] In the video to which the OP posted a link - Mark king really is bending those strings a lot It may be mainly down to the (light) gauge of the strings - but it may also be down to the make / brand Personally, I'm not a huge fan of flatwound strings (despite also playing DB) but some wise words from flats players on here pointed me in the direction of Thomastik Infeldt flats (TI's). I wanted some flats for my fretless, and tried some used TI's bought from someone on this forum... I couldn't (and still can't) get over just how low tension TI's are Don't know if MK is using them in that video - it's hard to tell, as even the sound will be processed and EQ'ed by the engineers on the sound desk. EDIT: I used to obsess about trying to get as low an action as possible - but I've since discovered, I actually don't really like the action too low. I've got several basses, and some are set up a bit differently - and I like playing different styles, on different basses, but mostly, I'd like to be able to pick up almost any bass, and not worry about how it's set up.... [/quote] [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1491832436' post='3275704'] I think action is subjective. And it depends on the bass. And your technique. And the strings. And the direction of the wind etc.. I've been playing with the action on my 64 P recently. The exercise was to see what I preferred playing wise and tone wise. I swapped the TIs out for Chromes as I wanted a slightly higher tension feel - I figured I would probly go back to the TIs after a while. It's proven to be an interesting exercise. The board is now dead flat, which is surprising as it's a 7.5" radius and vintage frets. However, setting it flat, the best tone/playability action seems to be around 2mm E and 1.7 G - with the A and D at around 1.8 ish. Any lower and the tone just drops out a touch, any higher and it doesn't feel as good to play. Funnily enough I'm sticking with the Chromes and the action as it is as I'm liking the sound I'm getting. I'd describe it as a medium-low action and it seems to fit this particular bass just fine. Horses/courses and YMMV etc.. [/quote] Hi both. Cheers for the feedback. I slap a fair bit as well as fingerstyle, so I'm not sure flats/chromes would be suited for my situation. Definitely good to know though, so thanks again!

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1491787142' post='3275377'] All that might be needed is to sand the fingerboard flatter if there's enough depth to it (ie. shaped slab not veneered). If the workshop is set up, it might only take a couple of hours to defret, mount on the sanding jig, refret and dress. Minimal refinishing would be needed (which tends to be where the costs stack up). Alternatively, buy a Fender licensed neck from Allparts or Warmoth and have the board flattened. Even if there's not enough depth, it could be flat sanded or planed and a new fingerboard attached. If your heart is set on a new neck rather than a modified fingerboard, Jon Shuker or Martin Petersen would a great choice for a well engineered neck but you'll need to specify flame or birdseye maple if you want a little growl as the rock maple Jon has is super rigid. If you want something a little more Marcus Miller then you'll be fine. Alternatively, Bravewood (if they're still taking orders) or Limelight might be a good alternative as they've got a lot of experience in preCBS Fender replicas. Expect to pay over £400 though. [/quote] Hi Kiwi. Thank you for your reply. Cool, I'll check them out! Anybody else on basschat that can weigh in here? It's always good to have a few options to choose from. Cheers.

[color=#000000]Hi all. Hope you’re well. [/color][color=#000000]Can anybody recommend a UK luthier that is able to make me a custom neck for my Fender Jazz bass please?[/color] [color=#000000]Basically, I need a jazz neck that has a 16” fingerboard radius, to replace the current 9.5” one that MIM fender has. [/color][color=#000000]I don’t mind spending a little extra cash, just so long as the quality of craftsmanship is all there.[/color] [color=#000000]Cheers.[/color]

[quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1491545506' post='3273766'] I think they were told to stop producing the old shape. [/quote] [quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1491550513' post='3273809'] Old ones no longer available even as a special order. [/quote] Shame. How come?

[quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1491510833' post='3273679'] It's the new body shape vs old body shape, the old shape being the more traditional Fender, not sure the date they started doing the new shape but think it was mid 2016 [/quote] Hi chris. I see. Is the 'old body shape' still available, would it have to be via special request?

[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Hi all. [/color][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]I’m confused. Both of these basses (see below) are advertised as Sandberg ‘California TM4’ basses, yet each have different body shapes. I’ve taken a look at Sandberg’s website, but I am none the wiser. Are they technically two different models of TM4?[/color][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]BASS 1: [/color][url="https://www.session.de/out/pictures/master/product/1/Sandberg_California_TM4_Chambered_RW_NT.jpg"][color=#365899]https://www.session.de/out/pictures/master/product/1/Sandberg_California_TM4_Chambered_RW_NT.jpg[/color][/url][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]BASS 2: [/color][url="https://www.session.de/out/pictures/master/product/1/Sandberg_California_TM4_RW_NT.jpg"][color=#365899]https://www.session.de/out/pictures/master/product/1/Sandberg_California_TM4_RW_NT.jpg[/color][/url][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Basically, I’m interested in the first one (looks more reminiscent of a fender jazz); what is it’s specific model name and which uk retailers sell them?[/color][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Cheers.[/color][/font]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][quote name='ikay' timestamp='1490892499' post='3268900'] Yamaha TRB5P is 23 5/8" according to here - [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Yamaha_TRB_5P.html."]http://www.bassdirec...ha_TRB_5P.html.[/url] My early series TRB5 also has a similarly flat radius. [/quote][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color="#000000"]Hi ikay. Cheers for your reply, good to know. My focus is primarily on 4-strings though. Many thanks.[/color][/font][/size]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000][color="#000000"]Hi all. [/color][/color][/font][/size] [color=#000000][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color="#000000"]What are the different increments of radii available on todays market, for a 4-string bass, starting from 7.25” to ‘Flat profile’?[/color][/font][/size][/color] [color=#000000][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color="#000000"]So far I’m aware of the following: 7.25”, 9.5”, 10”, 12”, 14”, 16”, 20”, Flat profile. 16” onwards is a bit of a grey area for me, as I have never really dabbled much with flatter radius’s before. What are some of the more flatter radius's before you reach a totally ‘flat profile’?[/color] [color="#000000"]Cheers.[/color][/font][/size][/color] [color=#000000][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color="#000000"]P.S - Examples[/color] [color="#000000"]would be great (ie 7.25" = Fender vintage Jazz Bass).[/color][/font][/size][/color]

[quote name='markdavid' timestamp='1489766505' post='3259677'] No problem, I use the Fender Mustang PJ and the Squier Jaguar short scale, I am fairly sure they both have jazz width 38mm necks... [/quote] Great. The 'Mustang PJ' is the one I tried. Like I say, alittle unusual at first, but I'm sure I could warm to it

[quote name='markdavid' timestamp='1489740343' post='3259293'] ...i would think that 40-95 or 35-95 on a long scale is definitely viable for low action [/quote] Very reassuring, cheers! [quote name='markdavid' timestamp='1489740343' post='3259293'] i use 40-100 gauge strings on a short scale bass with super low action... [/quote] Interesting. I have been looking into short scale basses myself recently. Tried a 30" fender mustang at my local guitar store; felt very strange at first, but I'm sure I could warm to it in time. I'm currently looking into 32" scale basses, but can't find one anywhere to try- ideally something jazz style. The best my local can offer is the Gary Jarman signature (32"), it has more of a precision neck profile though (not my preferred)- but I'm sure I could try it for size. Do you mind me asking what short scale [i]you[/i] use?

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1489703410' post='3259168'] With your requirements, after a low action I'd be looking at very light strings. [/quote] Hi Chris B. Yes, I use 40-95's. I could go lighter (ie 35's etc), but I feel you lose something in the low-end. 40-95's give me a good amount of 'snap', while retaining a suitable amount of low-end 'groin' lol.

Wise words indeed! But let me be clear on why I posted this thread (and indeed any other thread detailing ‘low action’). I have broke both my wrists numerous times over recent years; weakening them considerably. This has made them more prone to fatigue when over-worked for extended periods of playing. Subsequently, I prefer my action as low as I can possibly get it; this way, I don’t have to press the fingerboard as hard to fret notes. If I could articulate myself on a technical level, then I would; but sadly, I’m not that proficient. Instead, I have to make reference to youtube clips to make my point. My quest for the ultimate ‘low action’ is not an attempt to be like mark king, but rather to aid my wrists! lol. Cheers Manton.

Hi all. Great thread! I have been looking into shorter scale basses myself lately. Can anyone suggest any (fender) jazz style 32" scale basses, available in the UK, that I could try? Cheers.

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1488901446' post='3252784'] ... you'd need to hire the best bass-guitar tech you could find... [/quote] Any recommendations? lol

Hi all. This is great feedback, thank you. The Fender jazz shape and sound is a familiar friend, so I don't want to stray too far from what I'm used to (just a change in radius) - are there any Jazz style basses out there with flat/flatter radius (something 16" or up) that anyone can suggest? OR luthiers that are happy to make me just a neck?

[quote name='Lw.' timestamp='1488928492' post='3253083'] 2nd - I get what you mean about the different string heights relative to each other - I noticed it more on a 7.5 radius neck but I guess it's still there on a 9.5. [/quote] Hi Lw. Cheers for the feedback. Glad its not just me on that one then lol.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1488901886' post='3252789'] I've noticed similar in Rush videos. Geddy Lee's action seems to be ridiculously low, and yet he really digs in! When I try to set an action as low as that I get terrible fret buzz and choking... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWCVIb_ku_Y[/media] [/quote] I see what you mean! (I could be wrong but) Compared to a fender jazz say, I'm sure rickenbackers are slightly shorter in scale (33" I think), and a radius of 10". So not drastically flatter, but flatter nevertheless. Maybe these have something to do with it.

I love the sound of my (fender) jazz, however, I find it a little restrictive in terms of playability. After compromising with it for years, I have only recently learned that a change of radius may be the answer for me. My main areas of concern: - The string height unevenness causes me to ‘trip’ over strings as I cross them; meaning that I am unable to move from string to string efficiently during fast runs etc. - I can’t get the ultra-low action that I require without ‘buzzing/choking’. Being a very light player, I prefer my action as low as I can possibly get it; this way, I don’t have to press the fingerboard as hard to fret notes. I presented this problem to a friend, who explained this is typical of fender style basses; due to its 9.5” curvature. He suggested that a change in radius could be the answer; something flatter (16" or up) would provide a more lower, even experience. Are there any ‘flat/flatter converts’ that can vouch for this, and if so, what radius inch would you suggest as a good ‘all-rounder’ for someone (like myself) who employs multiple techniques (ie. Slap/tap/chords) in their playing?

Just watching this clip from Level 42’s ‘Guaranteed’ live... https://www.youtube....h?v=93VqyeUz8Z8 I’m amazed by how slinky and LOW his action appears here; it’s almost like there is NO distance between the strings and fingerboard atall! lol. What factors come into play when trying to achieve a set-up like this? My thoughts so far: I understand that Mark favours medium scale basses; typically with short scale basses, the reduced tension on the neck gives the strings a ‘floppy’ feel. Additionally, I know he favours lighter gauge strings (30-90 I think) which I imagine a better for bending. Maybe radius plays a part aswell. I believe his current Status KingBass has a 16” radius, so pretty flat (ideal for getting the strings nice and close to the fingerboard). I'm not that technically proficient, so I wondered if any of the tech-heads on here could shed some light? Cheers.

Hi all. Thank you for your feedback! I had a rough idea to begin with, but I find that it doesn't hurt to check with others, just to be sure. Cheers guys!

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1487452293' post='3239977'] The end of civilization as we know it. [/quote] Lol, I was half-expecting a reply like this

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color="#000000"]Hi all. One for all the technical folks on here. Will a 800w bass head work safely with a 800w cab? [/color][color="#000000"]I’ve always assumed that the head should never exceed the cabs power handling- but what happens if they are both the same power?[/color][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif] [/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color="#000000"]Basically, I[/color][color="#000000"]’m looking to pair the Markbass LM800 head with the Markbass NY122 cab (4 Ohm), bother 800w RMS. [/color][color="#000000"]I have seen a few players on youtube using the LM800/NY122 setup (including jazz heavyweight Richard Bona himself)[/color][color="#000000"], [/color][color="#000000"]so this is definitely assuring. But I just wanted to swing it past everyone here on basschat first? [/color][/font][/size] Cheers.