Dood

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1340218618' post='1701336'] .....instead of compressors, it may be worth looking at one of these. Check the youtube vid out, and see how the speakers are protected by this little bit of kit: [url="http://www.sfxsound.co.uk/mainpage.asp?page=micro_thumpinator"]http://www.sfxsound....cro_thumpinator[/url] [/quote] I'm inclined to agree with this - and maybe that a limiter although a help may not be getting to the root of the problem, just hiding it. Maybe look at the causes of the speakers blowing first. For example, the usual cause is to force the speakers to do things they simply can't cope with. Speaker over excursion being one such problem. What cabinets have you been using? Do you find that your speaker cones flap around lots when you play low notes? - I mean, you can see the cones moving back and forth? Then it is likely you are driving large sub frequencies in to the cabinet and not getting anything really in return. Do you boost the bass control on your amp/bass/effects units? Too much bass will cause those speakers to flap around and depending on the cabinets you are using, you may not be getting that much back for all of that boost as many cabinets on the market simply can not reproduce any useful frequencies below say 45Hz - sometimes as high as 100Hz! A bass peak at 30 Hz will just leave the cones moving back and forth wasting energy. So, to sum up - instead of buying more kit, you might find that trying a few judicial changes in your signal path, you'll save money and speakers. Here's my fave tip to start with. Start with all the EQ controls set at neither boost or cut. Instead of boosting the bass control, cut some of the mids instead. This will have the effect of making your amp sound deeper in tone, but not boost frequencies some cabinets have trouble reproducing. You'll have a much clearer signal and without the speakers rattling about like mad, the ability to get more overall volume that they can produce out of them! Bonus! Obviously, without knowing what kit you are using, this is a general approach - but it will help. Good luck Doooood

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/john-deacon-amps-494707/

Certainly the Live '86 gig at Wembley he was using Sunn 412L cabs but I'm not sure about amplification, I have to admit!

[quote name='MrFingers' timestamp='1340611418' post='1706804'] I can confirm what Gary says: Fender Japan makes some of the best, if not THE best instruments that money can buy at this moment. Price/quality is unbeatable. As for the '62, you have 2 different version, the PB-62 and the PB-62US. While identical from woodwork, the US has the correct reverse tuners, a real tortoise pickguard and American electronics (CTS pots, AVRI62 pickup), while the standard PB-62 has generic "Japanese" tuners (those reverse tuners are also japanese, but you get the point), and cheaper electronics (alpha pots, standard pickup). As a first P, it's very good, as you'll have an amazing instrument, but... The necks are kinda huge, as they are vintage spec'd. The PB-62 has a more modern 42mm nutwidth, but the US has the vintage 44.5mm nutwidth, which is kinda wide if you have small hands, but nothing to be worried about. [/quote] Correct me if I am wrong, but I also believe the PB-xxUS models are meant to be 'non-export' models as they are in competition with the US built equivalents. I have a non-export CIJ 70's reissue and it is every bit as good as the US £1000+ equivalent. I imported mine when the prices were good at a massive saving vs buying US. The PB-70US has a skinny neck, really close to a Jazz neck and that's another reason why I love it. I have a build diary featuring my P bass if anyone wants to see what it looks like.

[quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1340373632' post='1703576'] But where's the fun in that, you can't collect/hoard digital effect patches?! Si [/quote] I like you sir. You sir talk lots of sense!

[quote name='mike257' timestamp='1340319146' post='1702941'] Indeed, consolidating things seems like a good way to go. Guitarist buddy of mine has just gone from a giant board full of stomp boxes to a Mesa Triple Rec (which is giving him all the drive sounds he needs) and a TC G Major 2 for all of his mod/reverb/delays. All controlled from a MIDI box that switches his amp channels and effects patches, and lets him tap tempo too. I'm off to his practice room some time soon to tweak it into tone heaven with him! [/quote] My guitarist in my lil local band has done he same too! Engl Powerball and GM2 via a MIDI board. Great sound and so easy to set up. Very tidy too!

Try again, First up, fellow iGuitar/Licklibrary contributor Andy James: (I'm at the end of the vid!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9GZjHpuabo&feature=g-all-u

Ere's a few band mates of mine! First up, fellow iGuitar/Licklibrary contributor Andy James: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9GZjHpuabo&feature=g-all-u If you watch the video to the end, you'll see me toting some bassy goodness! Thomas laying down a groove.. I love this kit!: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fh0LyKMWBo Pin, ex-Sikth, Aliases: (Featuring my lil buddy, Aliases guitarist Leah Woodward) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3HBFS9Mg9w&feature=related

I'd suggest, if you want simplicity yet the ability to program sounds, grab a couple of really nice drive pedals then buy yourself TC Nova System to take care of EQ, pitch and time based effects. I use an additional baby size MIDI controller to call up ten different patches instantly. If you need more routing options for pedals, i'd encourage you to grab a second hand TC G-System.

I've video reviewed the Darkglass B3k, 3 Leaf Proton and 3 Leaf GR2 in Guitar Interactive Magazine ( www.iGuitarMag.com) in my bass department. Both companies really deliver top quality pedals, so i can see this being a positive move on both sides.

Congrats! I'd say your first app would probably be one to keep an eye on your data useage. It's really easy to eat that up if you are surfing/downloading on 3G. It gets expensive when you have to pay per Mb after the 100Mb has gone. 02 have their own app that will tell you how much you have used as well as info about your tariff, so start with that one.

I've been noticing slow load times with safari, both on my Mac and iPad when wanting to open pages on BC.

[quote name='BigBeatNut' timestamp='1340049162' post='1698353'] Why stop there ? You missed out the Blues Crab, Flex Boost and Cruncher from Mooer's boost/overdrive/distortion range [/quote] The depths of my pockets are a limiting factor! ha! These pedals do look great though!

I love the form factor of these lil babies! I'd be very interested in adding the Green Mile, Hustler, Black Secret, Ultra Drive and Metal Blade pedals to the 'must try' list! I have a 'parallel effects loop' I could drop a pair of these in to for a bit of dirt in my signal! Nice! - but which do I get first?? Lol

Of course, as with any Luthier, you don't *have* to have their body shapes no more than having to have a Jazz body for example. You could have Jon make you a flying V if that floated your boat ;0) He he! They look scary, but I spent a lot of time with Jon getting them as easy to play as possible. Scale length/ Neck carve / Fret size and profile etc etc etc. Those who have played 'em (at 'bass bash' get togethers) are usually happy to find nothing mystical about the extra strings at all. No different from sitting at a grand piano! All the same notes, just more of them he he!

He he! Yes, I couldn't wait for the Fusion 800 that is due out and lept on the FET MB800 instead - it's pretty awesome, I'd expect the Fusion to be a real winner.

No, this hasn't been cleared with the moderating staff. It should be discussed with the moderating team first. If you are a shop as you say, then you should refer to the notice in the Affiliates forum.

Andy, just to add to the discussion, you're in Sheffield? You're practically in throwing distance of Shuker. Not that you should base your decision solely on that, but it may help! I think generally everyone will have their personal preference and for me, other luthiers may or may not have put me off a custom with them in the past for one reason or another . I'm delighted with my basses and would recommend them way over and above basses twice the price, that are mere pretenders to the throne. ;0) ;0) Anyway, I hope you get a chance to play as many basses by different luthiers as possible as well as going to see the companies in person to meet and discuss your dream bass. Most luthiers should be able to show you examples of their work and give you an opportunity to test some. If i were nearer, i'd be happy to let you take a look at my customs. Good luck!

If it's any help - the front panel of the F1 is removeable with just a couple of screws without damaging it. I intended on doing some graphics for my F1 but never got round to it - It just has a black face now! I've put it up for sale here on BC for not much money. I'd looked at several options including a vinyl overlay that I think could have been very cool, or a polished mirror front. I think a matching sleeve would be very cool - you could even make the head casing look like a valve amp (like a Marshall for example) - but instead of the space being used to make way for transformers and valves in a normal valve head, you could make a little drawer round the back for leads and power cables? Functional!

[quote name='Higgie' timestamp='1339686706' post='1692720'] Yeah after playing yours I just thought, if this guy is capable of making a 6 string fanned fret as comfortable as this, he's the guy to build me a 5 string J Obviously they are worlds apart, but everything of his I have seen/played has been absolutely stunning. [/quote] + 1 million. On top of his incredible luthiery skills, his eye and attention to making sure the smallest details are perfect certainly sets him out from the rest.