Dood

[quote name='Scott S' timestamp='1422999353' post='2679474'] Cheers, dood, thanks for the heads up and the review, mate! [/quote] It's a pleasure

Ive reviewed the four string. It's really nice and the Aguilar pickups sound superb. You'll need to scroll through my posts here to find the magazine issue in which I covered the bass: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/248043-doods-100-online-video-reviews/page__pid__2645016#entry2645016

Just bought a TC Pedal from Grant. Great communication, very well packed item and keen to ensure a happy exchange. Good man! Thank you!

knocking £100 off new prices (or more) will no doubt have an effect on the second hand market too. Great for the buyer!

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1420927284' post='2655262'] Shame the pictures are round the wrong way, but here's a bass I'd like to track down! It was a 69ish (Ash?) P bass body that had been (as far as I can tell) stripped and refinished. The neck wasn't original and I suspect it was a US RI neck. The neck was dated 1982. It was an unusual P bass that had a pickup with Allen Key shaped poles, suggesting that it could have been a dimarzio. The neck IIRC was heavily figured and possibly bird's eye. Topping off the spec was a set of reverse Kluson keys, headstock strap button and black pickguard. The artwork was a window sticker, thus came straight off without residue and the thumb rest was also removed before sale but would have left two screw holes behind. I think a guy from Bury St Edmunds bought it from me, but this was well over 15 years ago!!! I'm off to find some clearer pictures, but I have to say, this was one awesome sounding bass! [/quote] Nyargh! My pictures have disappeared- I'll remedy that later. The only thing I'm wondering about is that I've not found many examples of birds eye precision necks. Mine had a rosewood board.

My other wishes for the B1P would be that the dirty channel could be switched in and out remotely. My effects unit has the ability to switch amplifier channels etc as part of a patch. Being able to control the pedal whilst it lives in a rack would be amazing. I might have to look in to that Suncoast! I've never been a fan of having pedals down by my feet - especially for gigging on the road!

Yeah, 'ello! Well everyone else has been in so it's my turn! - I've had a real love hate relationship with my drive sounds and I'm still not 100% happy, but I do have a sound I'd be happy to throw out live. Like the guys, I've had different kit to mess around with. I've not owned a Pearce, but I've had the EBS Billy Sheehan Sig Drive, I have an Ampeg BSP that I still may sell and I now have the Suncoast B1P. In my journey I have also had an MXR M80, the obligatory BDDI and even a Boss Metal Zone looped up with a graphic equaliser, which worked quite well! All the good stuff above rings true for me too and I would maybe prefer to sweep those mids as well but I am happy with having a clean channel that dirt gets added to - I'm wanting to keep the kit as small as possible so the trade off of not having a full second channel does mean the B1P box is a bit smaller. Primarily I went with the B1P to shift some pounds from my rack using the BSP and it's tour ready metal carcass! I have to say though I've not gained much!! My B1P lives on a rack tray with a TC Nova Dynamics noise gate/compressor a power supply and a Cab Sim that I'll come to in a bit. So, really weight wise I've shed very little. Effects come from a TC GM2 so that lives in the rack too. Two things I found a little difficulty with the B1P. The BSP drive is a very smooth distortion and there's tons of it - but it does need EQ to make it sing. BSP plus EQ rack..annoying! I was kinda hoping that the B1P had the same amount of distortion sustain out of the box - so I'm having to push the input a bit by winding up the output of my Nova Dynamics. No bother there really as I run that as a parallel compression leaving my 'loud stuff' intact. The other thing that was immediately a problem with my set up is that I have a very clear full range speaker system behind me and the B1P to mind isn't designed to work well with tweeters. Much the same effect as plugging a guitar distortion pedal straight in to a flat PA. Not pretty! So to get round this I had two options. Either turn off my tweeter and sacrifice it for all my sounds or EQ the sh*te out of my signal output for just the distortion sound. There's a whole thread by me about it too! So I took a punt and bought one of those Fender rebadged Mooer Micro DI pedals. I run that after the B1P or in it's effects loop, I've not settled on which yet. I have to say, for the money it's brilliant! It allows me to push the tops on the B1P without tearing my ears off - and plugged in to my recording interface i get a much smoother bass signal that I can then treat with VSTs to add cabinet 'air'. The Micro DI is just an EQ, there's no fancy stuff in the box if you see what I mean. I've got some other things to try in coming weeks, but I'm starting to get used to the B1P now. A nice piece of kit. One thing I wish I could go back and try though is the Sheehan drive and Micro DI. Maybe that's what it needed and I should have kept mine!

If you can find one, I use the now discontinued Roland FC-50 otherwise known as a GFC-50. A brilliant little board with enough buttons to get you started but there is also a whole host of sockets on the back for those occasions you suddenly need to expand, e.g. adding two expression pedals.

[quote name='BassBod' timestamp='1422028763' post='2667975'] The front end is pretty much the same as the Vtype - just try one anyway..you'll probably like it! [/quote] True, the schematic topology is similar - So I'd go with just getting a big beast like the LH1000 - though the LH500 is no slouch. Other than being heavier than D Class offerings, it's practically unbeatable with reference to 'value for money'.

Yup! Absolutely true! I believe Mr Pastorius used his bridge pickup as a sort of ramp too? Not 100% on that one though.

Very nice! I reviewed a Lionheart bass last year and it got a thumbs up from the whole crew and the tech guy upstairs! Really comfy necks too. Very 'playable'. I'd like to get my hands on a cannon next!

Changing a bridge does make a difference and can be noted in the material used - even if it is one high mass bridge to another. Similarly, Guitarists change out trem blocks from cheap cast units to lumps of bell brass. The difference is clear as day yet the block itself isn't even anchoring the strings. In terms of whether or not it's a tonal improvement is completely up to the person trying the 'upgrade' out. I'd hazard a guess that even the heaviest of high mass bridges, made from the cheapest of materials is still going to sound the same if not worse than the starting point. Furthermore, choosing your bridge type and material may or may not alter the tone of your instrument in a way that you like. Some bridges can be brighter sounding, some help to add girth to the note. Some are £15 on ebay and you get what you pay for

[quote name='Les' timestamp='1421711615' post='2664316'] Done And up to date again I think. [/quote] Thank you

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1422116613' post='2668887'] The fanned frets work very well. Whether they work for you is something only you can answer. [/quote] Agreed! But only answer after trying them

Speaking of Logos, I see the 2015 model has also sprouted a TV logo instead of the previous script type.

Just got a mailshot though: [url="http://www.tcelectronic.com/k-cabs/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=TCE+MI+NEWS+BASS+Introducing+K-Series+Bass+Cabinets+Helix+Phaser+and+Viscous+Vibe&utm_content=TCE+MI+NEWS+BASS+Introducing+K-Series+Bass+Cabinets+Helix+Phaser+and+Viscous+Vibe+CID_c060495b6ace535521f9c7b51fcb889d&utm_source=Campaign%20Monitor"]http://www.tcelectro...paign%20Monitor[/url] "[color=#333333]Our new line of K-Cabs is the pinnacle of beauty and tone compiled into three impressive and lightweight 8Ohm bass cabinets. The line consists of a clear and punchy 210, a crisp and rich sounding 212 and a heavenly roaring 410, all packed with high-quality custom drivers, a 1" ceramic tweeter, and the ability to blow you away!"[/color] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndtJ9_C48LQ[/media]

Wow! As I am enjoying a renewed interest in all things soldering iron related, I'm going to have fun with digging through the list on the Guitar FX Layouts pages!

[quote name='synthaside' timestamp='1421842395' post='2665558'] I'm Looking for a small but loud amp solution ... lugging trace while sounded great and making me feel 15 again ... Is not doing me favors in the long run , and my other half wants the living room door to open all the way rather than bonking into the front of a stack. [/quote] So familiar!!!! I could have written this myself!

Thank you! - and thank you for the offer of help too! I made sure I sat down, took my time and didn't rush each stage.

Right then! All done! - My Dingwall AB1 has a new configuration. After chatting with Dingwall Tech Support, I've replaced the existing four way switch with my own custom wiring that has, in my opinion been a successful little project! My AB1 is a XXX version with three neodymium Dingwall pickups. Firstly I configured each of the coils to series wiring if there were not already. Each have two sets of coils inside. After testing the existing switch with this and liking what I'd done, it was time to have a go at the crazy plan in my OP. Tech support were superb and I have sourced the same high quality switches that Dingwall use. That has saved me worry about making sure they fit physically too. The main thing was finding a switch that would suit my schematic I'd mapped out. The four settings I mapped out first ended up being the ones I am going to keep as I've been so pleased with the results. They are: 1. Middle and Bridge in series - Sounds like a fat tone MM pickup! 2. Neck and Bridge in series - I like this one - it's like a jazz bass on steroids! 3. Neck and Middle in series - My neck pickup is one of the 'P Tone' models. This setting adds low end and low-mid hugeness to the typical P sound. 4. All pickups in series - well, you would, wouldn't you!!! It's big! The thing to note is that I did a bit of homework first to ensure that I wasn't going to end up with a mushy bass tone. My AB1 is an Alder body with Maple neck and Bird's Eye fretboard. It is naturally bright. The pickups themselves are balanced and have tons of clarity and finally the Glockenklang 3 band on board is capable of some real hifi as well as a bold low end extension. I knew that I wouldn't suffer from any weird passive loading effects in active mode, being as the preamp would also act as a buffer; those extra low mids and possible roll off of top end would easily be balanced with the choice of EQ. It was more luck than judgement if I am honest and that's why I bought a handful of switches on the off chance that I would want to prototype some different settings. The great news as I've said is that it all went to plan tonally first time (despite a mistake with my wiring initially. More haste less speed Dan!) I always liked the serial setting from the original switch on this bass, so I wanted to try the other pickup settings too. I've retained the passive mode too and all the qualities you'd expect are right there. Have I improved the Dingwall AB1? Well, some have said that their experiences of Dingwall basses was a little too clean for their liking. I think these settings allow you to access a bit of old school thump - but with added punch from the bass's own tonal qualities and EQ. My bass is now known as DV1! [attachment=181637:ABI5Front.jpg]

I quite fancy a 50's Precision or an AV '62 reissue P. Then again, another power jazz bass special. I don't know why, but I think the 'all original precision' (albeit reissue) might be cool to have in the flock with my 'out there' basses.